GeneralDisorder

Yes - use half ATF and half cheap gear oil for about 100 miles. Don't drive like a madman or it will be hard on the front diff. Drain and refill with Scotty's - I use a modified Scotty's myself: 2 Quarts Redline Lightweight Shockproof 1 Quart Pennzoil Synchromesh 1 Quart Castrol Hypoy-C 80w90 The Shockproof is the "active" ingredient that will cure the clicky's and the grindy's. I swear this stuff will raise the dead when it comes to transmissions. GD

The ER27 is an EA82 with two extra cylinders. *basically*. Most of the parts do not interchange however, so everything for ER27's is big money. Small production numbers over very few years. Oil pressure is somewhat concerning. The lifter design is the same as the EA82 so it could just be poor functioning lifters. PULL THE OIL PUMP and check for wear. Across all Subaru motors if the previous owners have used cheap oil filters, or not changed them enough, the oil will bypass the filter once it's clogged and junk gets sucked into the pump. Even if the pump looks good the lifter ticking demands you replace the seals anyway. If there is any doubt about the pump, replace it. Replace the sending unit regardless. Flush the tranny with ATF, then fill it with scotty's cocktail. Should help if not cure the problems. GD

Um - where did that come from? And what model of carb is that? Would you consider selling it? GD

Unless it's a early 70's or older Weber it's got an EGR port. People only disable the EGR because they don't understand it. GD

You don't "skip" the SPFI and go to a Weber. SPFI is superior or equal in every metric. Especially off-road. You can't smog a Weber in CA - you could swap back and forth between the feedback and the Weber, but that's a HUGE pain in the rump roast given the way the feedback is setup on a EA82. SPFI you could smog - you just tell them the engine is from an 88 and have it reffed. Trust me.... or waste your time. Your call. GD

You don't need the dash out to replace the vents. I find decent sets occasionally - eventually you'll run across some. GD

Sadly, the EA82 feedback carbs are a total mess. Buy a factory service manual, take out a loan for the parts and the tools to fix it, and make sure you have some vacation saved up..... don't forget to pay the AAA membership on time. SPFI conversion would be the best way to handle the "situation" you have got yourself into. That is, without a doubt, the WORST carb Subaru ever made, and possibly one of the worst of all time. GD

Download this - it's the 89 FSM engine section. It has the D-Check procedures in it. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip GD

D-Check is not the same as checking for stored codes. You need to run the whole procedure. It is possible that the 34 and 35 are not allowing the ECU to finish it's self-test procedures. You MUST fix all codes then RETEST as some may not show up if others are active. Till you fix the existing codes, and start running proper D-Check procedures you will be entirely frustrated, and basically chasing your tail. GD

Have you ran a full D-Check? GD

That depends on if you want to use the discount as a reward, or as an incentive. As a reward all it does is keep customers - as an incentive it brings in new ones. The proper way to do it is to give half each way. Half as an incentive to begin sourcing parts through them, and the other half incrementally as they buy more and more. This gives the best of both worlds. GD

That hose doesn't go to anything. It's supposed to hang straight down without connection. You'll notice there is no mark from a clamp on it.... EGR light is mileage controlled via a trip inside the guage cluster. Every 60,000 miles you have to swap a set of connectors under the dash to "reset" it. They are blue or green, or blueish green.... or something. Just look and you'll figure it out. And take the tape off the line - it's the PCV breather air inlet I beleive. There's a little white square filter element in the air-box up there near that "bump" that it's connected to. GD

A few degrees won't matter much overall. 160 would definately cause a noticeable decrease in fuel economy. 180 is a tough call. If your setup was well tuned you might notice it.... but I tend to doubt it. At any rate you NEED to know why things aren't staying cool (according to the stock gauge) with the OEM stat. IE: you first have to verify the gauge accuracy. GD

FYI, there wasn't a bolt in the shift linkage where you showed "it should fit". That connection is made (factory) with a roll-pin inside another roll-pin, with a special cotter pin that has a built in washer. Check out my new fix for that: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901 GD

They aren't "well recessed", and they have nothing to do with the heads - they are between the head and the cam tower. So nothing that was machined on the heads could affect them. I don't have an EA82 apart to take pictures of at the moment. I'm sure someone around here does, or already has a picture though. The *slight* recess for them is in the bottom corner of the cam tower. If there isn't an o-ring you're oil pressure is relying on the forbearance of reptiles. GD

Just hook it up and see. You'll know if it leaks - it will be on the carpet most likely. There wouldn't be much point to bypassing it unless it was leaking. Even clogged it wouldn't hurt anything as far as the cooling system is concerned. More work than you would want to do to replace it I'm sure.... but you could get creative with a transmission oil-cooler, some longer hoses, and a bit of ingenuity with some 12v fans...... or light the passenger seat on fire. They make some inexpensive 12v heaters these days that might help a bit. GD

No EA82 I've ever owned has suffered a major mechanical failure. I've had no less than 6 timing belts break at various inoportune times though never one that I've personally replaced. My last one had 230k on it when I gave it away. No ticking, excelent power, and no failures. It's all about how you treat them I think. Within a short time of me aquireing them, I always do specific things in relation to the metrics I have on the engine in question. I've lost exactly one EA81 to rod failure. I learned my lesson quick. Oil pressure is ALWAYS monitored, and checked against a known reliable (high quality) mechanical guage. I generally replace oil pumps that won't give me at least 20 psi hot-idle. GD

Noah is correct. Just to clarify for you though - there are NO fans in a stock EA82 that are controlled in ANY WAY by the AC system. If you are hearing a fan running after shut-off it means the normal radiator fan was running via the thermo-switch that always controls it. That is perfectly normal. GD

Rod knocks on Subaru's are barely audible. Can't generally hear them at idle at all. They show under load as a metallic clicking in time with engine RPM. You'll know when they get really bad because the rod will come out to say "Hi". If it's already loud enough to bother you - it's probably not a rod knock at all. It's probably a main bearing knock. Those can last for years. GD

You DID NOT replace them?!? What kind of job is that? :-\ You can't help but remove them in a thorough cleaning.... If that's the kind of work you did, then these are probably the least of your worries. I'm sure other shoddy/incomplete work will get you before these do. But you never know. The cam tower's should always be completely cleaned including the slot for RTV, and the o-ring replaced - they are usually hard and if they aren't reinforced they aren't even round anymore. Usually not sealing much. It's the little stuff that will get you - attention to detail is critical for work like this. It's THE reason people complain about lifter tick - and probably why I've never had a problem with it. GD

The stock AC radiator fan on an EA82 is mechanically driven off the water pump through a viscous clutch. It is not electric. If you have an electric fan, then it was added later. And if that's the case then you are pretty much on your own - you'll have to trace down the wireing and figure it out. GD

Most of the applicable diagrams are in the downloads section of my converson site. I haven't looked real close because I don't have time right now, but I didn't follow your diagrams right off - what exactly is the problem you are having? There isn't much to the power wiring.... is your problem with locating the proper wires in the coversion harness, or in where you should connect them to the car? By the sounds of it, you didn't completely strip out the SPFI harness from the donor wiring. You should - it's much more difficult to follow if you still have it wrapped up in the factory tape and conduit. GD

EA82's with AC had a clutch fan ran off the water pump. If you have an electric fan then it's not stock. If you have an EA81 (hatch or Brat), then the AC fan relay could be stuck, or.... did you have the defrost turned on? AC comes on with defrost. GD

They aren't crush washers. And sometime in '87 (as near as we can tell) Subaru switched from a regular o-ring, to a metal reinforced o-ring as the plain rubber one's deform and partially block oil flow. See for yourself: http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1719+11738+4294966979+8235 GD

Just brought home two BRAND NEW EMPI axles for my EA81. $59 each, no core. I'll be posting about them soon with pictures. Like the GCK's they are 4WD spec, and ISO certified (and unfortunately made in China). Seems like the GCK's just aren't availible anymore. EMPI is known for quality parts in the VW world, and a couple years ago branched into the CV shaft world, and has a whole line of them. See here for information. You can lookup all their parts in the online catalog and any EMPI dealer can order these. Should be as much or less than the GCK's and hopefully the same quality or better. http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/drive_axles.html Here's the catalog pages for Subaru: http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/driveaxles_pg22.html http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/driveaxles_pg23.html GD