GeneralDisorder

BTW - all of these have horrible engines - the EA82T is a terrible choice for a rally vehicle - especially a heavy wagon. You'll want to yard that out and install a newer EJ or EJ turbo for rally needs. Do some searches for EA82T and you'll find out all you need to know about them. GD

Depends on the year. Turbo Traction was a trim level from MY '85 only. It was part-time 4WD. GL-10's are a trim level. They came in wagons, sedans, and 3 door coupes - both turbo and non. It's just a higher level trim package than GL. Extra options abound, but changed from year to year. RX's are a different animal. 85/86 RX's are sedans. They came in Part-Time 4WD, with a higher low range than the rest of the vehicles (1.2:1 instead of 1.59:1). They have a special interior package with bolstered seats, etc. Turbo, rear disc brakes, rear sway bar.... all that stuff. No LSD's. 87 to 89 RX's are the 3 Door Coupe variety. They came with Full-Time 4WD, and a center diff locker (still with 1.2:1 low range), or in 4EAT Full-Time 4WD Automatic. The manual version came standard with a rear LSD. They only came in white - except for a few black one's made in 89.5. In 90 there was a Loyale "RS". It was not a D/R car, but it was turbo. It looked basically like the RX but with grey trim, and a different decal set. No LSD, etc. GD

He can't because it never existed. If it had, then there would be an FSM that covered it - there is not. Also I and many others would have seen one - I've seen my share of EA81's, and GL-10's have always been carbed. EA82's started out with an MPFI non-turbo in 85, and quickly adopted SPFI in 86 - that part is true. GD

The rarest? Hardly. The rarest are probably the coupe's, and of those, the ultra-rare convertible coupe's that were dealer conversions done by a place in California. If you want to talk across all bounderies, then the long-bed 2WD Brat's from Isreal are likely pretty rare (in terms of world-wide numbers). Then there's the dual-carb EA81's from JDM land..... If sedans are rarely seen it is because they are unwanted. Brat's are the most sought after, follwed by Hatchbacks, and then probably the Wagon's. Coupe's and Sedan's have a relatively small following. GD

That's common with worn out keys. If you have a new key ground from the passenger door lock code it probably won't come out like that on it's own. My hatch does it too, and the worn out key is annoying and barely works. GD

If you get the right charger on that battery, it should be able to blast the sulfate off the plates and bring it back. 6 amp isn't going to do it though - most of the decent high amp chargers are around 100 amps or so. Quick fix is to buy a new battery of course. There won't be any damage beyond that. GD

Yes! Call Jerry - his kit is excelent. HIGHLY reccomended. GD

There is no need to swap consoles or shifters on ANY EA81 if you do it right. Driveshaft has to be made longer, or the two-peice from the EA82 used. The two peice has the advantage of being cheaper, and having better ground clearance, and vibration characteristics. GD

Never jump to a conclusion like that. Subaru water pumps are fairly robust. Squealing PROBABLY was a timing belt tensioner and/or idler pulley. That may have caused the belt to fail. It is much more reasonable to assume your recent timing belt failure was the source of the noise. It could be the water pump as well, but you won't know till you pull it apart and inspect them. The good news is that it should be obvious, upon inspection, what the cause of the noise was. Not really. There is a weep hole on the bottom of the pump. If it's been leaking it should be pretty obvious. Beyond that - play in the pump shaft is easy to check - grab and shake. You have a real problem on your hands with that one. Coolant loss could be anything from a leaky radiator or heater core, to a blown head gasket, or anything inbetween. HG's generally don't show coolant in the oil - you can blow them in several ways - coolant can leak into the cylinders and be burned, it can leak out onto the ground, or it can leak into the oil - if a head crack's it can leak directly into the valve exhaust port. Checking the oil will tell you nothing. You need to do a compression check, but you can't do that with the timing belt broken. Coolant can leak from hoses, from the intake manifold gaskets, throttle body base, radiator, heater core, water pump, head gaskets, ect. Without being able to run the engine, you have no good way to find the leak short of taking it all to peices and inspecting/replacing as you go. Even then if it's a leaky heater core you have to remove the whole dash to replace it. Best bet is to make it run (replace the timing belts) and then do a UV dye test. GD

1. There's no rail cutting required. 2. Turbo exhaust will require modifications to the cross-member. 3. The D/R won't hold 240 HP. You'll destroy it. In addition you'll eat axles, diffs and stubs. 4. Turbo's aren't generally great off-road. They don't make torque low enough due to low compression. And they are difficult to keep spooled when crawling. If you don't use the turbo at all, the engine will be a gutless, low compression boat anchor - with crappy mileage. Nothing in the mods you have listed sugests you have the automotive sophistication required for a swap of this magnitude. If you do, then I appoligize for judging - but that's my assesment thus far. Your posts don't strike me as showing adequate knowledge of either your Subaru, or the various newer models you would like to swap from. If you get as far as actually aquireing the WRX motor, then I would be surprised - but should you get that far, start sizing things up and mocking up your install - THEN ask questions. In the mean time do a lot of reading and searching. GD

It's pretty clear from your post that you really have no idea what you are doing. You need to do a lot less asking of questions, and a lot more reading, searching, and listening around here. GD

Some Ford's don't use forks - they use a hydraulic actuator that's INSIDE the bell housing. All that is accesible from the outside of the transmission is a hydraulic line. It would difficult to say the least. GD

Depends on the year/model. EA81 solid lifter engines for example, require a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles.... GD

How would you actuate it? Ford hydro clutches are inside the bell-housing if I'm not mistaken.... where would you attach the cable? I suppose something could be made to work on the pedal end, but that's a lot of work - just buy her a newer Subaru that has it. GD

Probably not.... the ABS systems and the hydraulic clutch on an explorer wouldn't be compatible with the way the HH works. The HH's are cable actuated on the older Subaru's.... I have no idea how they work on the newer stuff by I suspect it's electronic using the ABS/traction control nanny.... GD

Those are increddibly rare - you likely will never see one. Obviously this car's interior is completely shot and bare to the elements - what do you suppose it would look like even if it did, by some miricle, still have that expensive, dealer-optional knob you so desire? Seriously - you'll have better luck buying a hunk of walnut and making one yourself - wouldn't even be that hard. GD

If you have a 4x4 long enough to stretch across the engine bay and a couple feet extra on each side, a chain, and a friend - you can pull the engine that way. It's only 160 lbs or so with everything attached to it. Bare long block is like 110 or so. GD

Pretty much all of it has to be detached - that's not really the point of the slide forward method - it's more for those folks that don't have access to hoists or cranes. I did it a couple times before I was better equipped, and I have done it at the junk yard when I needed flywheel's or used clutch parts GD

You actually could do this and it would work. The SPFI manifold bolts to the EA81T heads - you just wouldn't use the MPFI injectors (in the heads), and you would want to run some sort of management or piggyback as the SPFI ECU is known to have issues with positive manifold pressure situations. Also you would want a second injector as the stock injector won't supply enough fuel at WOT with a turbo. GD

EA81T has almost the same HP as the EA82 SPFI (5 HP less) - just drop in the EA82 SFPI instead and be done with it - EA82's will fit with only minor adjustments in the EA81 bay. It will have more power than a low-comp. EA81 with SPFI for sure. Better econemy and easier to find too. GD

What exactly are you refering to here? GD

Axles don't come out any easier by pulling the tranny. In fact they really should be pulled before you pull the tranny. "pulling" the tranny isn't generally the problem - it's the putting it back in part that's a pain in the neck. You can save the coolant in a clean bucket and reuse it - there's no reason to lose good coolant if you do it right. And yes - there is enough room to do the entire clutch if you pull the engine forward with the radiator removed. It's a man-handling job for sure - but it beats every other method if you haven't got a hoist. If you have a hoist, then it's a slam dunk - clutch is a two hour job at the most. GD

It's easier to pull the engine. You can also remove the radiator and pull the engine forward till there is enough room to slip the clutch into the gap. GD

Up - down - it matters for sure. But you realize they are adjustable beyond the adjusting bolt right? You can pull the trailing arms off and change their orientation with respect to the torsion bar itself - that, in combination with the adjusting bolt, makes them adjustable from low-rider-tires-tucked-in-the-fender, to pull-your-axles-apart... and everything inbetween. Somehow people haven't realized this I guess. GD

Both actually - I'll need 6 sensors of various types, and 6 controllers for what I'm doing. They can all be programmed for each type of input, but there is no way to switch sensor inputs as the wire to the sensor IS the sensor when you are talking thermocouples - if you run the sensor wire through a switch you have introduced a dissimilar metal into the equation and the sensor will not function properly. For similar reasons you can't attach additional types or quantities of sensors to the unit, and anyway you would have to reprogram the unit each time you wish to utilize a different type of input - it's not as simple as selecting the type of sensor you are running. You have to select the type, range, and the set calibration parameters in a precise order to repurpose it to a different usage. Basically the controller is so generic that it's not user friendly in that respect. IMO that's a good thing - others may dislike it - ultimately it makes the device more useful if you know how to use it. It's design is based on a process monitoring mentality where you are going to set it up for long term monitoring of specific metrics that are critical to either a manufacturing process or other machinery monitoring duty's. Besides - a panel with 6 red LED displays is soooo neat looking. I'm going to use stainless plate behind them. There's instructions on their web site - it's a PDF at the bottom of the product page. GD