GeneralDisorder

The mileage increase is negligible at best. A properly tuned and running feedback Hitachi could turn in similar mileage numbers. Count on 1 to 2 MPG increase over properly tuned stock carbs, better driveabilty and easier maintenance. The performance is going to be largely the same without futher supporting modifications such as a larger mid-pipe and muffler, higher compression pistons, larger valves in ported heads, and a recurved cam. You'll get somewhat better throttle response and better off-the-line torque. But the top end will be virtually unchanged. Adjust your valves if you have solid lifters. Can't stress that enough to EA81 owners. GD

160 should be primary, and 170 secondary. Yes I'm sure. Larger air jets let in more air - the secondary needs a leaner mixture to give best performance at WOT. GD

242 is what I mostly use.... but I use the 248 "Stick" version. Try that one as it's much easier to work with. GD

I have Jerry's custom 5 speed mount, and it's quite nice. It's not something most people could build for what he charges. The design is a bit complicated because there is VERY little room for the 5 speed to fit without rubbing on a stock EA81 floorpan. There's as little as 1/8" between the trans and the cross-member, and the whole engine/transmission assembly is tilted backwards slightly. I won't go into more details or post pictures of Jerry's design as I feel that his price, quality, and excelent knowledge of the swap are well worth the paltry sum he asks. Pictures serve no purpose but to give folks ideas of how to copy his design. It's a cross-member with some rubber mounts on it.... what is there to see? If you want to make one, then stick the tranny in the hole and get out your tape measure and welder. It's not rocket science. But don't be surprised when it's not a as nice and takes you 10 times as long. Jerry's kit is one of the few square deals left around. Help yourself and a fellow board member at the same time. GD

85/86 are different from 87+. They more or less interchange though. The difference is the amount they stick out. The 87+ have a foam insert that makes them stick out about 4" farther. The older ones are just plastic over metal. GD

Not to in any way discount the Skipster, but "loctite" is a brand. You need to specify what TYPE of loctite you are talking about. Some types are more "forgiving" than others. Generally, yes you should always clean threads. But Loctite makes threaded pipe dope with teflon for instance (it's rather like the consistency of snot), and when you are talking about 3" threaded iron pipe the difference in "clean" and "CLEAN" is a pretty big one. I wouldn't bother with more than a wire wheel for example. I'm not going to hot tank it or use any solvents on such a joint - it's not going to help. Our production guys have tried numerous methods to "seal" 6"+ pipe. They just can't. They have welded some connections in the past. They found after much trial and error that it's best to let it leak and the pipe will rust and seal itself from the inside. GD

That certainly wouldn't be my choice of engines, but good luck to you. Please avoid the airspace over my house. EA81's are easy to fuel inject as well. The EA82 SPFI manifold bolts right on. GD

Yes, it does. Back of the manifold same as all the other EA's. GD

If it has one, then is IS a CA emissions spec vehicle. They were not always sold in *just* CA. There are other places that adopted CA's emissions practices in varying degree's. GD

Nope - my 85 Brat never had one. GD

Then he should know enough to figure it out. And he should also know that neither of your drivetrains will handle that kind of power. GD

That's why they sell "sensor safe" RTV. But there's very little use for RTV on modern engines such as the EJ's. Their gasketing systems don't need it. Older engines such as the EA's however can benefit from RTV in a lot of ways. Cork sucks. Sensor Safe RTV has never harmed any of my O2's. This is a very old subject, and one that has been addressed by the RTV manufacturers. It's only a problem if you use the wrong type. GD

I think there's a couple bolts and the whole gear housing and shaft comes off. The seals may actually be nylon and application specific IIRC. I checked into it and you can't get onesy-twosey from the dealer. I think you have to buy the whole rebuild kit and it's really, really not cheap. You'll have to drop the steering rack to get to it. GD

I'm not sure of all the regs, but I'm pretty sure for one-off experimental aircraft they will inspect the thing and give thumbs up or thumbs down to flying it. They have daylight limitations (no flying in darkness), and you can't carry passengers that aren't licensed in certain catagories. That's all I really know about it, but I have ran across a few sites talking about the virtues of the various subaru engines in aircraft. Seen some pictures of EJ22's and 22T's installed in aircraft, etc. Never seen anything with an EA82 though I sure wouldn't climb into such a contraption. I value my life too much. Would you hang from a cliff 20,000 feet high holding only one end of an EA82 timing belt? GD

It's probably the front cam seal. I have had them completely pop out and just sit there on the shaft. It will consume a large amount of oil when that happens. Definitely fix it yourself if you can manage it. Shops will charge the same labor price as a timing belt job because essentially it is. Figure $500+, and figure on doing the timing belt and all ancillaries As far as the the EA series seals and gaskets.... they suck. Cork has much to be desired as a seal material, and while what Qman says is generally true, the older Subaru seals "age" much faster than newer technology sealing systems. Coating the stock cork oil pan gasket in RTV for instance makes them last a LOT longer. Resealing engines is a good thing - but there are times when redesigning the seal or gasket is a better option given the ability. Subaru isn't going to tell you to do it - they would much rather sell you a new car instead. And there are also times when it's just not worth the time and effort to stop a few quarts every three or four thousand from leaking out. In fact, for a "beater with a heater" it can save you from even doing any oil changes. Just add more and plop in a new filter when you think about it. GD

It's a year thing - they chaged from solid to vented on all EA81's halfway into the 83 model year. So '83's are a crapshoot, everything older is solid, and everything newer is vented. 2WD and 4WD use the same size. GD

#1 Secondary air bleed. (should be 170) #2 Primary air bleed. (should be 160) #3 Secondary main jet. (should be 140) #4 Primary main jet. (should be 140) Front screw is the primary idle jet (50 is good) and rear is secondary (50 would be good here too). There are 4 correct ways to align the plug wires. For each one the distributor has to be in the correct location. Put the engine at TDC, compression stroke for cylinder #1. When air pushes past your finger on the spark plug hole AND the timing marks are in view on the flywheel you are at TDC #1 comp. Turn the flywheel BACK to 8 degrees BTDC and align the distributor so the rotor is pointing at whichever plug tower you want to be #1. Carefully done you shouldn't be more than 1/2 degree off on the timing by eye. Hookup the remaining plug wires in the 1-3-2-4 fireing order counter-clockwise from the #1 wire (wherever you decided to locate it). Your book shows 1 of the possible 4 correct ways to posistion the distributor and the wires. It was most likely hooked up in one of the other three BEFORE you touched it and now the distributor alignment does not match the plug alignment. You should just redo the timing completely so YOU understand it, and know how it's been set. GD

It never had one - don't worry about it. Only CA spec 4WD's, and 2WD's had them. GD

Measure the ID and OD of the seal and order one from a seal/bearing house. Look in the phone book. Keep in mind that this is metric land - you'll have to measure in metric. Use digital calipers. Viton would be a good choice of material if you can get it. Also the grease inside the rack & pinion gear housing is VERY SPECIAL. It's also insanely expensive from Subaru. I reused the grease that was in the last one I took apart. It's a lithium based gear grease that doesn't "flow" so it won't run out of the rack into the boots. It's "sticky" and white. There's probably some equivelent out there but I don't know what. GD

I've seen EA81's, EJ22's, EJ22T's, and EJ25's being spoken of with regard to experimental aircraft usage (the only classification they are allowed in without an FAA cert). They skip the EA82 completely because of it's weak timing belts and head gasket tendancies. GD

This is the thing that JB weld was made for. Or if you want to go hardcore and do it up right, the DevCon line of metal filler's and putty's are excelent and much higher quality than JB. Replacing parts is easy, but fixing parts is more rewarding and takes more skill. Don't throw it away just because there's a little gouge in the exhaust mating surface and you need to heli-coil a stud. That's just silly. Fix it, learn something in the process, and don't be like the rest of our throw away, instant gratification society. GD

This is a car - not an airplane. Airplanes are neccesarly more robust when it comes to seals on critical fluids. It's the nature of the beast - the potential for failure at 20,000 feet along with it's consequences precipitates the creation of elaborate, exotic, and astonishigly expensive sealing systems. Folks who deal with primarily automotive systems often fail to understand the extent to which other mechanical systems have gone to keep things sealed up. I deal everyday with labyrinth seals, teflon lip seals, viton o-rings, and mechanical seals using spring loaded carbon rings running on a micro-film lubricant over carbide polished to a mirror finish. Often a single seal in some of these machines cost more than your whole Loyale. And would fit in the palm of your hand. So yeah - they leak. No surprise there. The sealing systems are primitive 80's automotive tech. It's not going to kill anyone if a seal weeps a bit. Unfortunately without designing new (and expensive) sealing systems, it is something you more or less have to live with. You can fight it, or you can relax and add some oil. GD

Always been around $18 - $20 at the dealer for me. I wouldn't buy one anywhere else. GD

It's too much work - just find one that's 4WD. Trust me - I've done it. If you still want to know, do a search using my username - I've outlined the procedure. It's best to have a whole donor car. GD

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