GeneralDisorder

Identical actually - except possibly for the brake rotors and calipers (vented vs. non - got changed mid-83), the strut top is turned backwards on the 2WD (it's marked which way it goes), the strut cartridge is non-adjustable, and the spring is different. As far as the tie rod, knuckle and all that it's the same. GD

Ya know - I looked for those (this was a couple years back) and no one could get them. Even tirerack.com was out of stock. IIRC they were on the cheap end of the scale so seemed like a good choice. GD

I feel for ya - best to find a deal on one out here, and ship it over. Shouldn't cost much frankly - 600 - 800 depending on the shipping company (maybe more now with gas - IDK). Or get a plane ticket and drive back in one - filled with parts. We have plenty - we won't miss a GL with a trailer full of parts. GD

The problem with the "block sealants" they sell is they aren't designed for a flat four engine. The last step of the process is to drain all the coolant and let the "stuff" cure for like 72 hours - it needs air contact to cure. But with the flat four, it's near impossible to get all the coolant out. You have to pull the drain plugs out of the engine block, and even then because all the passages are flat, the coolant just doesn't want to clear out. This obviously isn't a problem with an inline four, or a V style engine as the cylinders are up high where just draining the radiator will drain out the passages where the leaks are at. That, and the stuff is at best a temporary solution. If the gasket is far enough gone that a small hole has started, others will follow and the existing ones will just keep enlarging. I've tried the stuff with zero luck in the EA82 on two occasions now. Just clogged up a heater core on one, and didn't do anything at all on the other. On the other hand - I'm out of work right now - I have the tools, the time, and I just did another EA82 HG last week with the same problem. Runs like a top. PM if you want to work something out. The parts are only about $40 for both HG's, cam o-rings, and manifold gaskets..... GD

Yep - 82 and newer are internally regulated. GD

Apparently the Rex is like a 3/4 scale justy. They are very similar, but not the same. The Justy and Rex were made along side one another in Japan - Justy had a 1.0L, and the Rex is the 600cc. Our US Justy got the larger 1.2L GD

Yep - I've got a set in 205/75R14 with one flat tire, and another that has like 3 jerky sticks in it. I don't know what the deal is with them, but the sidewalls are definately weak in my experience - at least on the AT's. Oh - when I said the only "6 ply's" I could find I meant sidewall.... Don't like AT's myself - the tread pattern might as well be a street pattern for all the good it does around these parts. Good for desert racing from what I understand, but not much else it seems. GD

Those are the All-Terrains correct? When I was checking into tires, I almost went with the Wildcat EXT (the Mud-Terrian) till I found out it was only a 4 ply sidewall. I've been told by my local shwab that they are made by cooper, so very similar to the cooper Discoverer... The only 6 ply's I could find in the smaller sizes are the Interco Swampers, and the Hankook RT01's (what I have). Have to admit I've never had a puncture yet. I've seen three or four of the wildcat's with sidewall punctures - seems like a weak point on them. GD

Yeah - old coolant is the #1 cause of corrosion. Coolant should be changed bi-yearly *even* if it tests good. The zinc and other anti-corrosive properties actually "wear out" like the metal tabs on the hull of a ship. Even if the hydrometer says it's good, it needs replacement. I've seen a cast iron engine block with aluminium heads pull nearly 3 volts from bad coolant. In severe cases galvanic deterioration has been known to eat holes through the water jacket. GD

High dose of lithium perhaps?? Seriously tho - sounds like a grounding issue - the grounds on the older subaru's tend to not be very pretty. I would clean each ground connection you have, and also run a nice big 2 guage bit of welding cable from the engine block to the negative battery post. And possibly another one to the vehicle body. To combat corrosion of metal like that, you need a sacrificial metal to take the hit for you. Zinc is the prefered choice. You already have zinc in your coolant, so you may want to check your ground to the radiator. GD

I have an extra, and they are plentiful in the yards around here. Going rate at my local yard seems to be $16.... so if you want it, PM me. GD

Crimp the return line from the regulator while it's running with a guage attached in the supply line and you'll be able to watch the dead-head pressure of the pump. Mine was right at 55 psi. GD

The stock SPFI pump is capable of about 50 psi, but the regulator at the throttle body will step it down to 21. Anything that can put out 40-50 psi will work fine. I would probably go with the Ford unit if you intend to use a new one. Personally I just used the stock one from my donor and that worked great for me. GD

Probably head gaskets then. It's common. Just did one last week with the same issues/symtoms. GD

No, but in alaska, uncommon things happen. GD

The EA81T is almost exactly the same except for the pistons, and the head castings. But all my EA81's have run right around there. Just put a used engine in my wagon and it's running 20 - 25 hot idle, and 50 at cruise. New pump, and I'm running an autometer guage and sender so.... have you replaced your sending unit? I also have an EA82 (carb) and it runs about 15 - 20 hot idle, but needs an oil pump reseal I'm sure. I just started cleaning it, and the inside of the engine isn't dirty - a thin layer of cooked on oil, but nothing bad. Oil galleries look good. I'll blow some air through them to be sure though. Was your EA81T making any knocking noises? GD

usually "steering with the gas" is indicative of bad ball joints. Jack the car up and see if you can move the bottom of the wheel in or out, and put a pry-bar on the control arm and see if you can get any movement that way..... I would also check engine and tranny mounts. GD

On my ex's beater toyota, I tack welded the rusty pliers she was using to the crank splines.... GD

Your heater not working points to the possiblilty that the system is clogged up. Give it a good flush - you may get your heater back as well. If I was doing it, I would remove the radiator and flush it with a garden hose and some decent pressure. GD

Coolant will not get into the oil if the manifold gaskets is leaking - it will just get burnt. I'm assuming you have checked and flushed out your radiator? You very well may have a bad head gasket. It's actually pretty common on the EA82 if it's been overheated. Most of the ones I've pulled out the gasket disintegrated in a small spot where the coolant passage runs about 1/4" from the combustion chamber. Last one I pulled apart it was on cylinder #4 near the rear bottom corner of the gasket. Compression test showed 150 on each cylinder.... the leak is small. Small enough to not make a white cloud, and small enough pass a simple compression test. But it will pressureize the cooling system with combustion gasses, and cause overheating under load. Frankly, just diving in and doing the HG's and manifold gaskets will probably solve all your problems. GD

Cool - glad to see another convert. You will really like it. If you have any more questions feel free to post or PM me. GD

Concave side goes inward. GD

Well - you'll notice that terminals 1 and 2 are IG power.... and that's all you need. 1 and 3 are the relay control wires (they close the relay). And terminals 2 and 4 are the fuel pump power supply. When the ECU grounds terminal 3, the relay will close and pass 12v from terminal 2 to 4 and on to the pump. So I guess the answer to your question is that LW (terminal 4) is powered by terminal 2 when the ECU determines it is necesary to run the pump and activates the relay ground. GD

Pin #.... 18. Check out page 32 of the conversion manual, it's all detailed there. The function is present on ALL ignition switches - even my EA81's have it. Oh - and it's light green/yellow - my bad. GD

It's just an ECU function - I don't profess to know *exactly* what the ECU does with this info, but the idea is surely to notify the ECU the engine is cranking at a low speed and to set the base timing and fuel settings accordingly so the engine will actually catch and start. GD