GeneralDisorder

The EA81T is almost exactly the same except for the pistons, and the head castings. But all my EA81's have run right around there. Just put a used engine in my wagon and it's running 20 - 25 hot idle, and 50 at cruise. New pump, and I'm running an autometer guage and sender so.... have you replaced your sending unit? I also have an EA82 (carb) and it runs about 15 - 20 hot idle, but needs an oil pump reseal I'm sure. I just started cleaning it, and the inside of the engine isn't dirty - a thin layer of cooked on oil, but nothing bad. Oil galleries look good. I'll blow some air through them to be sure though. Was your EA81T making any knocking noises? GD

usually "steering with the gas" is indicative of bad ball joints. Jack the car up and see if you can move the bottom of the wheel in or out, and put a pry-bar on the control arm and see if you can get any movement that way..... I would also check engine and tranny mounts. GD

On my ex's beater toyota, I tack welded the rusty pliers she was using to the crank splines.... GD

Your heater not working points to the possiblilty that the system is clogged up. Give it a good flush - you may get your heater back as well. If I was doing it, I would remove the radiator and flush it with a garden hose and some decent pressure. GD

Coolant will not get into the oil if the manifold gaskets is leaking - it will just get burnt. I'm assuming you have checked and flushed out your radiator? You very well may have a bad head gasket. It's actually pretty common on the EA82 if it's been overheated. Most of the ones I've pulled out the gasket disintegrated in a small spot where the coolant passage runs about 1/4" from the combustion chamber. Last one I pulled apart it was on cylinder #4 near the rear bottom corner of the gasket. Compression test showed 150 on each cylinder.... the leak is small. Small enough to not make a white cloud, and small enough pass a simple compression test. But it will pressureize the cooling system with combustion gasses, and cause overheating under load. Frankly, just diving in and doing the HG's and manifold gaskets will probably solve all your problems. GD

Cool - glad to see another convert. You will really like it. If you have any more questions feel free to post or PM me. GD

Concave side goes inward. GD

Well - you'll notice that terminals 1 and 2 are IG power.... and that's all you need. 1 and 3 are the relay control wires (they close the relay). And terminals 2 and 4 are the fuel pump power supply. When the ECU grounds terminal 3, the relay will close and pass 12v from terminal 2 to 4 and on to the pump. So I guess the answer to your question is that LW (terminal 4) is powered by terminal 2 when the ECU determines it is necesary to run the pump and activates the relay ground. GD

Pin #.... 18. Check out page 32 of the conversion manual, it's all detailed there. The function is present on ALL ignition switches - even my EA81's have it. Oh - and it's light green/yellow - my bad. GD

It's just an ECU function - I don't profess to know *exactly* what the ECU does with this info, but the idea is surely to notify the ECU the engine is cranking at a low speed and to set the base timing and fuel settings accordingly so the engine will actually catch and start. GD

Purolator is ok apparently, but according to everything I've heard, WIX stands out as having a full, quality line of fitlers. And they are Napa's OEM as well, so are almost universally availible. Fram is universally considered to be junk. GD

Yeah - welding cables are good - then solder the copper ends on to them. You need to use a torch for the solder operation.... Or I just generally get the napa ones with the molded ends on them - far superior from stock (at least they are copper not aluminium), and the molded lead ends are alright if you fashion a washer to go under the nut so it doesn't destroy them when you tighten them down. GD

I always pull the radiator cause I have bid hands and it's cramped in there if I don't, and I don't like bashing the fins in with wrenches and such. Don't touch the condensor - there is no need. You do all the work from the top or the bottom. GD

Tighten your axle nuts. And inspect the hub splines for wear. GD

That's pretty much it - on some models, depending on which you get the harness from, some of the power supplys are already wired to one another, so in practice (mine came from a 90 Loyale) I have the fusible link, and 3 20amp ignition controled circuits for everything else. There is also the light green/white wire that gets power ONLY when cranking. GD

Yes - it means a power source that is only turned on when the ignition switch is in the On and Start positions. GD

Sure - I didn't say it couldn't be done. And I've seen that custom EA81. Everything I said is there - lots of welding, milling, and fab work. There's a kit made for the Audi A6 my friend has that is a low pressure system - runs at 4 lbs with standard NA pistons.... Still, I wouldn't bother with the EA82, it's far from bolt on, and most "kits" you can buy are in the range of $3,000 to $4,000.... FAR, FAR more than the car is worth. You could easily purchase three or four cars for that money that would already have the horses you would gain, or a WRX front clip.... which IS a bolt in (more or less - LOTS of bolts, but still....) GD

Not on the EA82. And all later engines are distributor-less. GD

Extraordinarily appropriate, yet delicately effective. A must for anyone seeking massive "tunar p0war". The order is in - I'll be sporting one at the show - how about you? GD

Lots of fabrication, TIG welding, lathe and mill skills. Totally not worth the effort for that engine. The pistons can't handle even the measly 7 lbs of boost the stock turbo engines put out. How many N/A short blocks do people have to blow up?.... He asked for bolt-on, and polluted the post-stream with more totally useless jabber that intelligent people will have to sort through when they SEARCH for things. Have to admit - his lack of basic mechanical insight is funnay tho. GD

Is there some other kind? Hey! Where's my supercharger glue? I'm forever losing that stuff..... GD

Did you clean the groove on the cam carrier mating surface of all the old sealant and apply about a bit less than a 1/8" bead of RTV to the groove? Sounds like either that, or the o-ring slipped and got wedged in there or something. The cover itself should not leak unless it's not seated properly - but if all the bolts are in then that's unlikely. At this point if you can't see the source clearly, get some castrol super clean (purple bottle) and degrease the whole area. Then run it and see what you find. Oh and in reposnse to your question on quantity, yes - that much oil is definately present. I've run them without the cover in place (diagnostic situation) and you need a catch pan for all the oil. It makes a HUGE mess if you don't. GD

LOL GD

My point was that it's not HIS car, so in this case not his decision to make. Reason? He's posting pictures of a collector car on a car enthusiast forum. Do the math. Auto theft isn't something I would take many risks with - and again - not his car, so whiteing out the plate protects the poster, and the owner in this case. GD

For her sake, you should probably white out her plate information in the pics. GD