GeneralDisorder

Check to see how the mating surface for the radiator cap looks - I've noticed on the metal tank ones the surface gets pitted, and the rubber seal on the cap may not seal down tight. A little sandpaper will clean it up. Don't forget - there's two sealing surfaces. I think half the time people replace radiators thinking they are "clogged" when in fact the filler neck is just a mess and and cap can't seal.... New radiator is nice and clean so problem goes away and their assumption is "proven" in their mind. GD

No - it's a disadvantage really - extra tensioner bearings, more difficult to remove and intall, and the belt is more expensive. The two v belts are $11 for BOTH, and are easy to change. Plus if one dies, the other will carry you till you can replace it - if the serpentine goes...... GD

The "guys" at the dealer have probably never seen an EA81, let alone layed hands on one. Do as you like, but I guarantee they will leak in less than 10,000 miles if you don't seal em. All the newer engines the dealer works on regularly use rubber for the valve covers. Subaru made this change for a reason - cork didn't cut it for the valve covers. By using the RTV as I outlined, your are making you own "rubberized" gasket. Besides that - this aint rocket science. No matter how you do it, it will be easily and cheaply fixed if you mess up. Don't worry so much about it - start worrying and asking major questions when you have to tear the engine down for main bearings. GD

MPFI XT's were serpentine. GD

Yeah - sucks I know. I've seen some bad rad caps, but usually not. I replaced mine, and the radiator, and the t-stat. But on mine it's a little more clear cut - 227k miles - original HG's. I overheated it one day about two weeks ago when the AC belt broke, and popped the alt/WP belt off while in a construction zone. That led to the original water pump failing about a week later and another overheat. Replaced the pump but it's too late for the HG's I'm afraid. The fact they were replaced actually points suspicion at them - cheap parts, and or shoddy labor, and a tendancy for that engine to blow them already (ie: what prompted their replacement last time?) all sugests they may be at fualt again. All too often bad mechanics fix the symtoms and not the problems that caused them. GD

It sounds like the system is over pressueizing - and that usually means head gaskets. Yuckies. I'm having the exact same issue with my EA82 sedan. I'm going to do the head gaskets on it soon. I've tried everything just like you have. On the whole, I really hate the EA82 cooling system, and the weak OEM head gaskets. All the EA81's I've owned this has never happened. Fel-Pro's are going in this one fo-sho. GD

You probably need a new pressure plate. GD

Standard equipment for an 85/86 RX - they didn't become FT4WD till 87. It proabably is one of the few "not-RX's" out there. Not labled per-se, but still has all the features. GD

That would seem to be the difference - but wouldn't it have been easier for Subaru to just change the proportioning valve? hhhmmmm - still a bit of a mystery really. You sure that thing isn't a 90 Loyale RS? GD

Pads and Rotors are the same - differences are in the calipers and backing plates only. GD

Well - I don't know that I would say that.... upon closer inspection it appears that (as usual) things are a lot more complex than a simple yes or no.... From my parts manual quick reference (1985-1998) the specifications are thusly: Rotors are listed as all the same: #25431GA180 Pads are listed as all the same (kit): #25191GAf32 Calipers are the difference: (RH = Right Hand, LH = Left Hand) RH(25110GA180) LH(25190GA010): 12/1986 - 3D 4WD, RX; SW GL, GL10, 4WD RH(25110GA182) LH(25110GA381): 1/1987 - 3D GL, RX, RS; SW DL, GL, GL10, 4WD RH(25110GA372) LH(25110GA382): 3D GL; 4D; 3D DL, RX; SW DL, GL, GL10 So not only is it a model thing, but also a year thing. But it does appear that the Sedan (listed as 4D) only got the smaller ones.... but so did 2WD's.... heh - they list a 2WD RX:rolleyes:.. So I guess you can say that the Sedan, and ALL 2WD's got the smaller calipers. Not that anyone gives a hoot about 2WD rear discs, but I figured I would look. What do ya know - learn something every day! Also interesting to note that the only difference in 2WD vs. 4WD disc assembly's is the hub, and possibly the backing plate, but I think that's only different because you need the 2WD calipers to go with em, which are the same as the 4WD sedan calipers, so assuming you get an entire set from a 2WD, and replace the hub with a 4WD disc hub it *should* fit. At least that's my theory... GD

3 door and wagon are the same - only the sedan was different. GD

"keeping it quiet" with band aids doesn't exactly speak volumes about your "tons" of knowledge. Replacing the seals (possibly the pump as well), and R&R of the lifters would be the correct fix. Running other than recommended oils, and additives will shorten the life of other key engine components. But I guess since you work for a wrecker you probably just shrug and get another engine huh? :-\ GD

Just tried to add that to the list, but I am no longer able to edit my list post..... mods? Unless it's an automatic, it's solid. Look for the gold stickers on the valve covers that say "Do not adjust valves". Or remove the valve cover and look at the pushrod - solid lifters have aluminium pushrods with steel caps, and hydro lifters have steel pushrods with no caps (smooth). GD

Oil pump seals get old and hard, and the pump can't put out enough pressure for the lifters to stay fully inflated - thus they tick. Happens a lot actually. GD

Sounds like the cable is starting to frey internally - mine on my wagon did that, and I not knowing any better at the time just tightened it and drove on. About a week later it snapped on an on-ramp. Didn't know how to drive it without the clutch at the time so had to tow it. If it breaks just start the engine in first gear and RPM match your shifts. It can work to get the car home at least... GD

Check out the SPFI conversion manual - I know you already have SPFI, but it gives a nice rundown of how the fuel pump is powered and how it's wired. As well as the pinout of the ECU conectors, and some wireing diagrams: http://mshoup.us/docs/spfi_conversion_manual.pdf Here is also a partial 89 factory service manual that has a lot of good info on the SPFI and such: http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA82/ Thank mikeshoup for hosting this stuff for us.... GD

The fuel pump relay is always powered, it's ground is controlled by the ECU to close the relay. Sounds like perhaps you disconnected or otherwise disturbed one of the grounds for the ECU. Just a guess. When the press the buttons on the dash, it uses engine vacuum to power the actuators - that's the hissing you hear. Without the engine running or having recently run there will be no vacuum present in the accumulator to run the controls. Not sure, but the fan problem might be related as the actuators may switch it on once the reach position.... or it could also be a ground issue. GD

I have to agree with Gary - I rarely pull the engine for head gaskets - and I own a cherry picker. I too use ratcheting wrenches whenever possible, and as he says it's near impossible and totally frustrating to get the valve covers off on the EA82 without one. You guys think EA82's are annoying.... on the EA81 you have to fish the rocker arm bolts through holes in the frame to get them out. But on the whole, the EA82 is worse as you have to deal with cam towers and timing belts and junk. GD

4 speed is longer than the 5, and heavier. GD

There are two cable types, but they are not interchangable. Have a look at my write up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

It is NOT (can't stress this enough here - NOT, NOT, NOT - understand?) a device that stops "backfire". It's proper technical name is "anti-afterburn valve". It's sole function is to eliminate the soft poping noises you will hear while coasting quickly (usually downhill) with the throttle plates closed. It is (IMO) a useless, extreanous device that should be eliminated. Get an EGR from an SPFI car that doesn't have the tube, and remove the valve, bracket an all associated junk. Beter yet - grab the whole SPFI and swap it on. And the quarter trick doesn't apply - that's the Air Suction Valve, and is not even connected to the AAV GD

Then there is my solution.... I took the subaru lug nut wrench (ya know - the one from the tool kit). Stuck two appropriately sized bolts in two adjacent holes of the cam sprocket, held the lug wrench up there and tack welded them to it. now I have a lug wrench/cam sprocket tool. Works fabulous. And I HATE strap wrenches. GD

I used the same Redline that Ed uses in my 4 speed, and while it did *help* it did not completely eliminate the 3rd gear and 2nd gear downshift grinding. It's not a cure all, and in the case of the 4 speed, the grinding is largely due to bad syncro design. Note that it's "bad" only in the context of subaru's in general - they routinely last 200k or more - but they shift crappy, the linkage sucks, and they almost always die somewhere between 250k and 300k (less it abused). The 5 speeds are quite the opposite - very nice shift, hardly any syncro problems till they get WAY up in the mileage (with proper maintenance), and there are a TON of them left. It's intesting to note that Subaru STILL uses the same 5 speed design with only minor changes in 20 years. The 6 speed in the STi is the first really new subaru transmission. GD

Eliminate it - you don't need it, and it's a dealer only part. GD