GeneralDisorder

It always is :-\ GD

Should be pretty close in power - but the EA82 definately has a little more due to it's improved valve layout. I have both a Webered EA81, and an EA82. The EA81 will top out at about 95-100, but mostly due to gearing on the 4 speed. My EA82 has a lot less torque, but will easily hit 110 with the 5 speed D/R. In reality I think it would be a very close race 0-60. The Brat is fast - with the Weber, milled heads (higher comp), and turbo muffler it's got no problems taking it right up to 85 - past that it starts to run out of RPM's. The EA82 sedan moves nicely too - not as much torque off the line, but revs quick, and shifts smoother, and with the secondary open it seems to pull harder higher in the power band than the Brat does. It will go to about 6700 RPM and then pretty much loose completely after that. Probably just the stock cam grind petering out. Both are very consistent at 28/32 MPG. GD

It bolts to the same place it does on the EA82, and the EA81T - blocks are the same, and the bolt holes are already there and tapped. GD

Probably have more luck finding a 5 speed D/R in your area. Not that difficult of a swap, and the 5 speed is much more reliable in the syncro department. GD

Yeah - I did the two bolt thing for a while also - works fine for a while (I replaced when I had a chance - it was a side of the road gasket replacement when I broke one) Best bet - clean the hole out real good, FILL the hole with JB weld, then sand it smooth on top, dill, tap and heli-coil it for a quality thread interface. JB weld will work fine as the manifold bolts are only 14 - 16 Ft-Lbs. Any more torque and you will screw the gasket, and maybe break the bolts anyway. Remember to shove a shop rag in the intake while doing all this to prevent crap from falling in there. GD

Just use the EA82 PS pump - it bolts right to the EA81 block (same pump used on the EA81T). Then you just have to deal with the belts, which are a lot easier than the hoses. Plus you eliminate the silly idler hanging way down under the engine - no idler at all with the EA82 pump since the alternator takes care of it. GD

WILL NOT WORK ON EA82. GD

Everyone else is right - it's not going to stop there - you have an old car. As any mechanical device, it's going to wear out/break/leak etc. If you don't have the ability to work on it yourself, it would be silly to try to pay others to do the work for you. You could easily spend more than the car is worth many, many times over. As Hank pointed out, each one is different, and they do seem to find new ways to break that no one has seen - I've ran across a few myself. Usually uncommon stuff that is a direct result of previous repairs gone bad or simply a lack of maintenance entirely. IMO only a mechanic, or aspiring mechanic, or at least someone with the ability if not the desire to make repairs, should own an old subaru. Yes - they are cool, and it's fun to off-road - but unless you have bags full of money (in which case, go get a Hummer H1 Alpha) then an old subaru, while very fun, is just not for you. GD

Discount import parts has the hella's for $50 each. You need 2 hi/lo's and 2 hi's. About $200, and yes - the wireing is not adequate, so some work and relays is in order. Very popular conversion with the VW crowd so we are lucky... GD

Heck - if ya need some help or some pointers - I'm not far away at all. I'm in the middle of about the 6th EA82 head gasket I've done right now. Just waiting for my friend to have the heads milled for it (his son's car). I have a picker if you want to do it that way.... GD

I cover the difference in EA81 clutch cables here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

Exhaust leaks (in the y-pipe), or bad ASV. Fix the leaks and/or block the ASV's with quarters to prevent fresh oxygen from getting in. GD

Should still cool itself - probably your radiator fan isn't kicking on. GD

EA82 and EJ22 are completely different animals, and we have answered you on this before - you need a points disty from an EA71, and modify the drive gear. GD

First - REMOVE the manifold. It's not hard, and probably could use new manifold gaskets anyway. Get them from the DEALER only - about $3 each. Be careful removing the manifold bolts, clean them really good - I like to use a wire wheel on both the mating surfaces, and the bolts, and then anti-seize on the bolts. Remember - only 14 - 16 ft-lbs on the bolts or you will destroy the gaskets, and possibly break the bolts. After that - any of the above will work fine, or just drill and tap the thing back to the proper size. A heli-coil or timesert will fix it good as new. A well placed and properly sized drill bit and some careful drilling + use of a tap will clean out the original threads without harming them. GD

If it's 4WD, then fix it - shouldn't cost more than about $200 in parts - that includus doing all the needed belts and water pump and stuff. Maybe $100 more if you need to mill the heads. If it's 2WD - part it out. GD

Thermo-switch completes the circuit, so just put a jumper wire in the connector with a couple crimp spade connectors temporarily till you can replace the switch. If the fan doesn't come on, then you have other problems (bad fan, fuse, etc). GD

There is no difference in engines - other than emmissions related chages required for 2WD vs. 4WD, or CA. Subaru was very much into interchangable parts - the core engines have always been the same regardless of drivetrain. I have driven both, and they act differently due to the gear ratio's, final drive ratio, and tire sizes. The 2WD came with 175/70R13's, and the 4WD was 185/70R13. GD

A normal sized 1/2" breaker bar will rest against the radiator support on the drivers side with the radiator out - make sure it's AGAINST the support before turning the key. It's only scary the first couple times you do it.... and that one time I threw a breaker bar into the neighbors yard GD

Remove it - not needed, and there are more of them in the engine bay anyway. GD

The sticker would say LSD on it if it was, and they didn't make a 3.9 LSD, except as a rare option on the XT6, and I think that may have been the VLSD. At any rate, only turbo, full-time-4WD (AWD) 5 speed's for 88, and 89 got the 3.7 LSD (And some older RX's I do believe). To verify - jack up the back, put the transmission in 4WD - turn the wheel - if the opposite wheel turns the same direction it's an LSD. If it turns the opposite direction it's a regular open diff. GD

Same as a Dastun or Nissan blank. They used the same locks on many 80's cars. Nearly all my keys are nissan re-cut's. Your "smith" just doesn't know much about his job apparently. GD

The lock comes off easy - get a pair of needle nose pliers, and tilt the column all the way down. You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off. I have a couple extra that I have scored from junk yards and such that happened to already have a key. They usually come off easy as there is no corrosion on those bolts being inside the car. Get a replacement from the junk yard, note down the key code from the passenger door lock assembly, and have a key ground at your local dealer, or a lock smith. They can do it from the code for about $10. GD

IMO, no worse than any other parts source, but they have lots of hard to find stuff, their prices on some things are simply unbeatable ($0.94 for an EA81 fan thermoswitch ?!??!), and their customer service is great. Recently I ordered a part they did not have in stock, and were unable to secure from the manufacturer (also out of stock, with no idea when they would restock it). Rockauto called me, and also sent me an email. The issue was promptly resolved. They also usually have detailed pictures of most parts so if you know what you are looking for it's not much of a problem. Definately - I get the Fel-Pro entire engine gasket sets from rockauto, and then buy the intake manifold, exhaust, oil pan, and valve cover gaskets from the dealer. GD

Nope. GD