GeneralDisorder

Um - this is OR dude - we don't have those Nazi freaks here. And we don't really have trouble with land closing. It's a FFA around these parts, and if you go out of the metro area it's even more backward - I regularly see nutcases driving with no fenders, doors, or hoods - beer cans all over the place. GD

In the Sedans, the seat parts are maybe 10 pounds total. Just foam and fabric really. Totally not worth it. GD

It's been discussed at length before. Use the search. The factory service manuals show a single advance curve. I didn't write that "performance" page, but it's also VERY old, and quite frankly, wrong. GD

2WD will look very similar, but will be a Nippon Denso brand vs. the Hitachi used on the 4WD's. But again, there is no difference in the advance curve, so unless you want one for some other reason, it's a moot point. GD

Wrong distributor - you have an EA81, and you pulled an EA82. You would have to remove a mounting tab, and change the drive gear for it to even fit, and since you got it from a fuel injected car, it won't work at all being it's just a crank angle sensor and needs the fuel injection computer for spark control. As for the suspension, you do have a torsion bar. The Hatchback, and Brat continued to be sold in the US till 89, and 87 respectively, but they are 100% '84 in design. GD

Kerosene will do the job too - or ATF. Anything with a lot of detergents will clean it out. Seafoam is great for fuel systems and carbs and such, but aweful expensive for flushing an engine. GD

You really should give me a + board rating for that . I told ya Baxter's had a whole shelf of em..... Man I love me sometimes :-p GD

There is NO difference in advance curves. Wives tale.... Also the 2WD is more prone to bushing failure.... actually it's just not as tollerant of shaft play, but same effect. They do fit better with a Weber, but that's the only reason I use them. GD

Doesn't have an computer. EGR light is mileage controlled - you have to switch a couple of green? connectors under the dash and it will go out for another 60k miles. GD

Head Gasket - pretty easy on an EA81. GD

I'm well aware of the frustration - I currently own 4. Frustration is a state of mind. I have never found myself "frustrated" per-se. If something doesn't work, then I sit down in the garage, and think it through. It really comes down to being calm enough to let yourself think it through. One big factor is always having at least one vehicle to drive. That way if you don't get the problem fixed, you have something to drive to work or the parts store. Takes a lot of the stress out of the situation. I figured this out when I was a mechanic in the ARMY - I realized that I never got stressed about fixing vechicles at work because it never affected me being able to go somewhere, and I always had the right tools or could get them easily. GD

Yeah - I sugested that too.... can't hurt to try if it's on a picker right? Only if you can write off the time investement if you can't get it to work I suppose..... The splines are slightly beveled near the end, and I think it should work - the springs in the disc should afford it a small amount of play doing it this way.... GD

Yeah - the EA81 fan switch in the radiator just grounds to the radiator when it reaches operating temp, so use the switch as your ground, and it should just work like magic. GD

I can get pumps for about $65 here locally - original OEM part. Not sure what shipping would cost, but I can't imagine it would be anywhere near $140 GD

Those are sweet - and unfortunately extremely rare. They made them for wagons too - just not in the US. GD

(This Problem) Youth :-\ GD

GD

It's a tight fit - pound the seal in with a socket. GD

Cross member will not work with the EA82T exhaust, and you'll have the mentioned frame rail issues if you lift the vehicle, but other than that it will fit alright with some mods. That said, the EA82T is a finicky peice (of junk) - not worth the trouble IMO. Far easier to swap an NA EJ22 - no turbo, no exhuast problems, and 20 more HP. Best of all they are now MORE common than the EA82T, more reliable, and cheap - whole donor cars can be had for under $500 if you look around a bit. GD

I've never really experienced the "stuck" oil pump. I just apply constant pulling force while twisting and they come right off.... but YMMV. I've pulled over half a dozen that I can think of, and more than that off parts motors and such that weren't in a car. Getting the damn screws out that hold the pump itself together is another issue - very sharp screwdriver, a vice with some soft pads or wood blocks, and a sharp hammer blow will usually get them turning without totally destroying them.... GD

No - there is only 4 bolts that hold it to the block. A 1/4" drive ratchet with a 2" extension and a standard depth 10mm will take out all the bolts without removing the crank pulley. Rotate the pump back and forth while pulling gently to remove it from the block - it helps to leave the oil filter attached to it for some leverage. DO NOT pry on the pump or you WILL crack the drive spade housing - it's cast aluminium and very brittle. The 14mm on the pump is the pressure relief spring housing on the pump, it does not attach the pump to the block in any way. GD

That's exactly what I'm talking about - they are redesigned axles, and they are better than even the original 4WD spec axles. There really is no comparison - especially for the price. GCK really did us a favor here guys. They are not using EA82 joints, they are using NEW components made to fit our application. EA82 joints will not fit an EA81 front axle - the axle shaft splines are different as the EA81 shaft is much thicker (in the case of the 4WD shafts). The only issue I've had is that on one axle I could not get the axle in far enough to fit the cotter pin it came with - had to use a smaller cotter pin. Worked just fine tho, and I think it was due to aftermarket bearing in the hub. I actually moved that same axle to another car (don't ask :-\), and it fit fine. They make EA82 axles now too (they didn't when I first started using them), and I'm sure they are just as good. Someone with a lifted EA82 should check them out. Their catalog is very complete now with axles for every subaru I can think of (EA81 and up), and they even correctly show the spline count (23/25) for EA82's. They even have a listing showing the RX (same part as the Turbo EA82, but at least they know about it). GD

New or new-to-you? Are they 4WD or 2WD axles? This is the problem with most brands - they use 2WD axles (or in the case of rebuilders - you don't get any choice), and they really are not up to the job for a lifted unit. GD

Depends on the model - on my EA81 they work fine - just blink a little faster than normal cause the system thinks a bulb is out. I just bought orange bulbs and called it good. EA81 land is nice like that. GD

You have probably missed the bolts inside the push-rod section below the clylinders. You also have to remove the piston wrist pins through the 4 acess holes on the sides of the block. If you threw a rod tho - why are you bothing? The whole engine is contaminated with chewed up bearing material and it's not as if EA81 crank's are rare.... GD