GeneralDisorder

The correct o-ring (yes - that is the one) is not really an "o-ring" at all. It's a metal washer with rubber molded around it. While you can indeed use a regular o-ring, the metal is there to resist the "flattening" effect that a regular thickness rubber ring would have. Less rubber = less flattening as the seal ages. Personally I wouldn't use "just" an o-ring. Again - it's not that it won't work - it's that it won't work for the usual lifeime of the OEM part. GD

Only if it has AC - which was common with EA82's. It's there primarily to cool the AC compressor. GD

Engine = toasted. The valves probably warped and are stuck in their guides. GD

Sure - normal fuel pump will work fine. Just have to do a little modification with the hose routing, and filler tube etc. All-in-all there's a bit more work involved, but the advantages are clear of course. Especially if you are into off-roading, as the fuel tank is pretty exposed down there.... Personally for what a lot of yards want for a fuel tank, the cost of a plastic fuel cell is well worth a few extra bucks and some small headaches. Your tank is already rusting out, and even if you fix the leak at the seam, you have to wonder how much rust and scale is in the tank and will start flaking off into your fuel system in the near future..... Also it sounds like your car is pretty much on it's last owner. So if you do the fuel cell you will be able to salvage it for resale or for your next terribly rusted hulk. Being plastic it will never deteriorate, and could be used again and again with many vehicles. JB Weld would work. You would need to prep the surfaces well, and allow it to dry for at least 48 hours I would say before using the car. When dry it is impermeable to gas and oil, and it will bond with solid (not rusty) metal extremely well. I've seen people seal cooling systems with it. Those are pressurized, your fuel tank is not. Those who say it won't work did not prep their surfaces well, did not mix it properly, or (most common) did not allow it to set up long enough. It will continue to harden for about 72 hours I've noticed. GD

Look at the axle nut first. It may be loose. Very common with the EA82's I've noticed. Jack up the car on that side - if there is ANY play in the wheel likely the axle nut is loose. I just tightened one on my Sedan that worked loose. I've driven the car for 9,000 miles since I bought it and only now did it decide to come loose. I attribute the cone washer being worn to the looseness. Replaced the cone washer, and filed a bit on the hub to make sure the cone shaped mating surface was smooth. Then I jumped on the breaker bar several times. I'm crossing my fingers, but seriously I've tightened these guys before on previous EA82's only to have them come loose again on me and a few K miles. Replacing the hub AND cone washer may be the only real permanent fix for this issue. Fortunately I have a pile of cone washers and I am very aware of what the loose axle nut sounds like. I pretty much always catch them now before they are bad enough to strip the splines out of the hub. GD

Really not all that noticeable - but your speedo will be accurate again, and your mileage will increase. Again - if you want power, for the price of a set of tires, you can put on a Weber and keep the tires you have. GD

Stock size for a 2WD was most likely 165/70r13's.... But you have a carbed EA82, with a 3 speed auto, and the heaviest of the body types (wagon). You are lucky it can get out of it's own way..... with a running start! Get a WEBER. GD

Get a real manual. That site is not correct. If you look on there, it has listed about 5 different codes as "ignition pulse" which is just silly. I'm sure someone here has an FSM.... The EA82 feedback carb system is JUNK. Take it from me - I tried like hell to get it all working correctly. It's just not in the cards. Get a Weber and you'll be much happier. GD

He's right - WD stands for "Water Displacement" (formula #40) and it's also non-conductive. I don't hit the trails without at least a full can. It does also work as a lubricant for a short time - but it evaporates rather quickly. There are much better products for loosening rust and freeing stuck parts. And for lubrication of most automotive joints (door hinges, switches, etc) I prefer lithium grease. Non conductive, repels water, never evaporates, and comes in a spray can... BTW - a LOT of oils are non-conductive - this is why ignition coils are filled with the stuff..... GD

Ok - need a LOT more info; 1. Complete model of car - EA82 I'm assuming, but what? SPFI (not likely), MPFI or Turbo? Carb? Feedback carb? 2. Procedure you are using to pull the code. 3. Manual you got this informative chart from? Some manuals suck. GD

Yeah - those front diff supports do go bad like that sometimes - the rubber gets old and just falls apart. The excess vibration from the bad u-joint may have been the final straw for it. Definately going to be part of your strange noises that you developed. Probably be able to locate a decent one from a junk yard. I know I could get one up here anyway - if your mechanic can't locate one, PM me. GD

There is no such thing. Not in a general sense. There's a LOT of types of off-roading. From rock crawling to desert race endurance style events. Mud bogging, Dune racing, Trail riding.... what do you want to do? Each comes with it's own challenges and requirements. GD

That's true, but the crank angle sensor should be the same. Should still work. GD

Well - I think you are mistakenly thinking that AWD is more common..... it's actually extremely rare on the EA series. Only the 88/89 "Full Time 4WD" turbo's got them. Not impossible to find, but I could lay hands on 10 4WD 5 speed D/R's tommorow if I wanted that many. No - I'm serious. If I wanted an AWD 5 speed tommorow..... well I might just not get it at all. GD

Find another block - EA81's are just too easy to work on. For the price of a tank of gas for that suburban you can probably get it up again. GD

While that is possible, I've had them actually rip out of the DOJ and start flopping around down there. Beleive me - this is bad. If you turn at full lock with it broken like that the chances are good it will rip the axle shaft out of one of the joints. GD

You *should* be using "Engine Assembly Lube" it's specially designed to disolve in oil. Other stuff will work, but may clog up your lifters - especially if you use "disc brake grease" which usually has moly in it. Engine assembly lube is a white lithium based grease. GD

As long as it came from another fuel injected EA82 it will work. SPFI, MPFI, even turbo all use the same crank angle sensor distributor. It's really a very simple device inside. Nothing like the carb units. Timing is really controlled by the ECU. You might have to change the plug on the end depending on what year it came from, but it *will* work little effort. GD

Ok - so to summarize (I'll update as people post): Engine serials / build dates: - EA81 799337 - 07/81 931272 - 01/82 009899 - 04/82 300305 - 05/83 460419 - 01/84 665918 - 11/84 809067 - 05/85 - EA82 000808 - 12/85 It would appear from the results so far (preliminary) that sometime in 1982, subaru had produced over 1,000,000 engines and had to start over from 0. This is a problem for ID'ing engines as the difference in the heads from 82 to 83 when the larger intake valve's came out isn't easy to spot. I don't have access to a pre-83 engine right now, or I would take the pictures myself. The difference is two 10mm bolts on the bottom of the heads - they bolt into the block. The 83-up engines do not have these.... now it gets sticky as the block may still have the holes but the heads do not. 83-up hydro lifter blocks do not have the holes, but the solid lifter's may. We need some detailed photo's here..... I'll make a new post asking for them. GD

You pulled BOTH of the adjustment bolts right? The EA82 has two mounting tabs. Get a good shop light or flashlight and take a look down there. You'll see it. Both are (should) be 10mm. GD

Well - actually the entire rear drive assembly is "along for the ride" at all times. Since the rear wheels are connected to the diff, and that to the driveshaft it's all spinning at all times. The disconnect is inside the transmission - all it does is disconnect the rear drive shaft from the engine. Make no mistake tho - everything that spins when the vehicle is in 4WD is also spinning in 2WD - it's just not "driven" When you put it in 4WD it actually places constant tension on the (potentially) loose u-joints or other problem area. This will tend to quiet the problem as the area in question will be in tension from both ends - from the wheels, and from being driven by the engine. So when in 4WD often I've seen bad u-joint quiet down a bit, and not vibrate nearly as much. GD

Well - I KNOW for certain that the EA81 4 speed 4WD and EA81 5 speed 2WD use the same clutch disc spline. In fact pre-83 they were the same clutch completely. In 83 they changed to a 225mm for the 4WD, but kept the same spline style and release bearing/fork setup. When the EA82 came out, from what I understand they did not change the 2WD trans at all. Being that it was already a 5 speed they just continued to use it as is. You can look on some parts web sites and compare the 2WD clutch for an 84 to that of say a 90 loyale. If they are the same part numbers (for the disc) then you'll know. GD

Coverlay used to make them for Gen 1's, but they are out of production. There's a couple on ebay right now. As far as I know they never made them for Gen 2's. But with the popularity of the Gen 2 Brat's growing, I wouldn't be surprised to eventually see them produced. With people already paying well over $5k for nice Brats I predict we will start to see restoration parts eventually. Just look at the old muscle cars, or old VW's. If there is a market for the car (and in the case of the Brat there's no denying the market is there) then it will happen. I would say in the next 10 years we will begin to see simple things like dash pads, carpet, headliners, and other interior bits. Probably also outside trim - perhaps the elusive tailgate trim, bumper skins, maybe some clear tail light lenses. The list really is not all that long, and it really only takes someone who works closely with reproductions, and knows the market exists. As for your dash right now - there are usually carpet dash covers for the Gen 2's availible on ebay for pretty cheap. Either that or find an uncracked used replacement dash and protect it like a second child.... GD

No - the 2WD has a different size clutch (and different flywheel). Should be a 200mm vs. the 4WD's 225mm. The input shaft splines are different on the trans side too. The 2WD 5 speed's remained nearly unchanged from the EA81 series, and as such inherited their 200mm 2WD clutch setup, while the 4WD moved on to a new bigger clutch in 83, and then when the 5 speed came out the pressure plate changed as the input shaft splines changed.... GD

One word: Butane. GD