GeneralDisorder

Nothing with the right fuel, but the problem is the EA81 heads have a poor design internally for that much compression. The shape of the cylinder has a lot to do with how much compression you can run. Also those Honda's have EFI, knock sensors, and all sorts of tricks like V-tech that allow them to run high-comp on lesser fuels. GD

Yeah - that's me - but it's the rear's not the front's. Here's my write up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html Can you tell I've done some axle work? GD

I swear by the GCK's. Couple reasons. 1. They are BRAND NEW (no core charge!) 2. They have been redesigned by GCK using more modern materials and building processes. You have to see one in person to understand. They carry an "Optimized for 4WD off road" label right on the box. 3. With the EA81 you have two types of axles - 2WD and 4WD. The catch is they are interchangable so the rebuilders do not make a distinction. You get what you get. If you buy an axle from say Napa that's "reman", you may or may not get the better 4WD axles with the stronger joints. 4. Lifetime warrantee (Through Autozone for me - so don't need to keep reciepts or anything). You really have to see one to understand - very, very nice axles, and the joints are so tight when you get them they barely move by hand - like a new ball joint. Really amazing. GD

I didn't say anything about doing a valve job - most times that is not needed, and besides that, if you replace the valve seats, valves, guides, and seals they will not change depth at all. Only a "partial" valve job where the seats are ground, and the valves lapped would cause this. With how cheap new valves and seats are, it would almost be silly to bother. Also the amount of change is very small due to the valve diameter being only a small fraction of the overall cylinder diameter... GD

It's under the car - follow the lines back and it's a weird looking thing inline with the hard lines comming out of the cab - it's mounted with two bolts to the "floor" where the floor of the cab rises to meet the floor of the cargo/trunk area. Hope that helps. On another note... what yard did you vist? - that's pretty good pricing.... I know U-Pull-It would be a lot more with the new management now. GD

That's common with aftermarket bearings. They are correct, but they are made to fit the older engines also, and hence the narrower bearing - get the Sealed Power (Federal Mogul) bearings or OEM. Rockauto has the SP's: www.rockauto.com GD

Thanks Jak. It's on the list. GD

I mounted it using it's stock bracket from the EA82 to one of the mounting holes for the Brat's fuel pump shelf.... but the Brat's fuel pump is located in a different spot than the other EA81's... basically the bracket just has two holes, and you need to find a spot for it. The hard lines I used from the donor car - I pulled as many of the hard lines from the rear of the car as I could get - as well as the couplers and stuff. They bend real easily to fit wherever you decide to put the valve. I just routed the lines as best I could and zip-tied them. I'm sure with more time and effort you could make new lines, and do a more proffessional job of routing. I can get pics of mine if you like, but again - it's a Brat so it's different under there. GD

If you are going to the trouble to dissasemble the engine it's much easier (not to mention more reliable) to just install SPFI pistons (9.5:1 stock), and deck the heads .020. You are looking at very near 10:1 with those two, and that's about as far as you can take it and still get a reliable engine that doesn't ping. GD

Yeah - definately will not work with a manual trans. I've thought of that before as there are many cars that have something similar. GD

Doh - yeah that's what I meant. GD

83 already has a filter/vapor seperator right before the carb. The Hitachi is just a crappy design - the jets are sunk into the bottom of the float bowl. On the Weber they are lifted up about 1/4" so crap in the fuel or particulates that make it through the air filter cannot clog the jets. Make sure the float needle and seat aren't sticking - I've found this before on Hitachi's. GD

Yeah - it was an "order only" option that way tho - extremely rare. Oh - and you AUS and NZ guys do have a random assortment - like the Brumby being 3.7..... ALL 3.9 here. Best to check the tag on the diff, but here in the states you will find as stated above that most 5spd D/R's with 2WD (can test this by putting it in gear and watching the rear output while turning the input shaft) will be 3.9. The few exceptions are the 86/87 RX transmissions etc...... if it came from a turbo it's 3.7 GD

Wagon's are MUCH, MUCH more common (with discs), so likely that's what you'll get anyway. I really doubt it would make that much difference on the EA82 - even the drums have the valve (different proportion, but at least it has one), so the phenomena is not nearly as pronounced. If you want to be safe just get the valve from whatever car you get the discs from. GD

Turn the engine on it's side and be real careful and slow about how you do it. With enough time and patience it should find it's way in there. I generally split the block and use a bent coat hanger with a hook on it to hold the wrist pin up - but I don't pull pistons unless I intend to split the block. GD

Just hit up a radiator shop - they should have a large selection on hand. Something will fit. GD

Won't fit - wrong bell-housing. GD

You don't - you will have to rotate the crank to remove each wrist pin. You'll pretty much have to split the block to do the job - it's very difficult to remove the piston from it's bore without splitting the block. No - bore/stroke are the same, as is displacement. The SPFI pistons have dish marks for the valves, and the EA81 has a gear driven cam so there is no possibility of a valve strike. SPFI is 9.5:1 stock, so don't mill much off the heads or you'll have to run premium fuel. GD

No - EA81 disty should work - provided you change the drive gear to fit the EA82. GD

Updated my list - check out page 1. GD

I generally run the stock 8 degrees myself, or maybe a little less as my heads are milled a bit on one engine. GD

Same car I got the brakes from. 88 FT4WD Turbo Automatic Sedan IIRC. My 86 carbed sedan has one too - even with the rear drums. I'm sure it's a different "proportion" but it's there. EA81's (in the states) never had any form of proportioning control, but the front discs are much smaller as are the calipers. I'm guessing the fact the rear drums are not very powerful (and usually out of adjustment), and the small discs they just don't need them. GD

140 primary 140 secondary 170 primary air corrector 160 secondary air corrector Both venturi's should be 3.5 Your idle jets are fine. I've never seen any difference in the emulsion tubes - I'm sure they make different ones, but all the weber's I've messed with were 50?? I think. Remove that anit-stall thing - don't need it. Remove your anti-afterburn valve, and your air injection reed valves - not needed unless you need them for air quality. Getting the deiseling to stop is all about timing, and idle mixture/speed. If you have the idle speed too high, or the timing off, this will happen. Easy way to stop it is to get the anti-deisel solenoid that Weber makes for the main idle jet. But you really don't need it if you tune it right. Acceleration flat spot is either the jets (probably) or could also be a bad accelerator pump. GD

Rings are not the same. You'll need to make or buy a tool to remove the wrist pins, and you'll need a 14mm external hex socket to get the plugs out of the block. If you want higher comp. get EA82 SPFI pistons. The EA71 pistons are not very much taller - maybe 10 thousandths. They also have a lot weaker ring lands. GD