GeneralDisorder

Much better to just buy another wagon. They are plentiful, and the FWD Auto makes a nice economical commuter. They serisously get like 35 MPG freeway. A conversion requires a LOT of parts - even more for an Auto conversion. Take it from me - I've done it. And I had a whole donor car to work with. GD

Running straight ATF will clean the syncros off (ATF has a ton of detergents in it). The Redline is spendy, but will help too. Between them it should take care of most of the issue. GD

Run some ATF through the tranny, and refill with redline after a few hundred miles. The problem is not the syncro's wearing out, but a layer of varnish on them. I've heard that when torn down, they often just need to be deglazed - no replacement is needed. GD

Now you feel just like I do about oil pumps huh? :-\ GD

They are so increddibly plentiful in good used condition that it's pointless. Any of the PAP's in WA will sell you one for $100 plus tax. No way you could rebuild one for that kind of cost. GD

Yes - the mount you speak of for the diff should not be solid rubber - think of it as a "wheel" of rubber with spokes of rubber connecting the outer large ring with the inner bolt hole. Between the spokes the rubber is left out to make that bushing "softer" to dampen vibration better. Glad they located the really horrible noise. Good luck with the vibration. GD

Also - while hydraulics are a severe application, the cam case o-rings are subjected to more heat than a typical hydraulic system, and engine oil usually has trace amounts of fuel solvents dissolved in it as well. A regular o-ring will flatten out, harden, and possibly crack and get sucked into the oil passage - causeing all sorts of damage in the process. EA82 lifters already have a tendancy to tick loudly if you make a funny face at them - lets not make the problem worse with incorrect oil seals.... Lets see..... save ~$4.... or spend $5 and have the correct part.... your call. GD

Probably - but I would just find another set of heads. Otherwise you'll definately need a complete valve job - new guides and all. And if it got that hot, they are probably cracked and warped too. GD

I'm afraid it comes down to sloppy shifter bit's inside the tranny. This is caused primarily from people grinding the gears. The little notches that engage each other to hook the gears together are what get "ground" down and there really isn't a fix for it - time for a 5 speed. GD

Smack the valve's a couple times with a hammer - maybe they will break free. Probably smoke like a chimney tho. GD

The correct o-ring (yes - that is the one) is not really an "o-ring" at all. It's a metal washer with rubber molded around it. While you can indeed use a regular o-ring, the metal is there to resist the "flattening" effect that a regular thickness rubber ring would have. Less rubber = less flattening as the seal ages. Personally I wouldn't use "just" an o-ring. Again - it's not that it won't work - it's that it won't work for the usual lifeime of the OEM part. GD

Only if it has AC - which was common with EA82's. It's there primarily to cool the AC compressor. GD

Engine = toasted. The valves probably warped and are stuck in their guides. GD

Sure - normal fuel pump will work fine. Just have to do a little modification with the hose routing, and filler tube etc. All-in-all there's a bit more work involved, but the advantages are clear of course. Especially if you are into off-roading, as the fuel tank is pretty exposed down there.... Personally for what a lot of yards want for a fuel tank, the cost of a plastic fuel cell is well worth a few extra bucks and some small headaches. Your tank is already rusting out, and even if you fix the leak at the seam, you have to wonder how much rust and scale is in the tank and will start flaking off into your fuel system in the near future..... Also it sounds like your car is pretty much on it's last owner. So if you do the fuel cell you will be able to salvage it for resale or for your next terribly rusted hulk. Being plastic it will never deteriorate, and could be used again and again with many vehicles. JB Weld would work. You would need to prep the surfaces well, and allow it to dry for at least 48 hours I would say before using the car. When dry it is impermeable to gas and oil, and it will bond with solid (not rusty) metal extremely well. I've seen people seal cooling systems with it. Those are pressurized, your fuel tank is not. Those who say it won't work did not prep their surfaces well, did not mix it properly, or (most common) did not allow it to set up long enough. It will continue to harden for about 72 hours I've noticed. GD

Look at the axle nut first. It may be loose. Very common with the EA82's I've noticed. Jack up the car on that side - if there is ANY play in the wheel likely the axle nut is loose. I just tightened one on my Sedan that worked loose. I've driven the car for 9,000 miles since I bought it and only now did it decide to come loose. I attribute the cone washer being worn to the looseness. Replaced the cone washer, and filed a bit on the hub to make sure the cone shaped mating surface was smooth. Then I jumped on the breaker bar several times. I'm crossing my fingers, but seriously I've tightened these guys before on previous EA82's only to have them come loose again on me and a few K miles. Replacing the hub AND cone washer may be the only real permanent fix for this issue. Fortunately I have a pile of cone washers and I am very aware of what the loose axle nut sounds like. I pretty much always catch them now before they are bad enough to strip the splines out of the hub. GD

Really not all that noticeable - but your speedo will be accurate again, and your mileage will increase. Again - if you want power, for the price of a set of tires, you can put on a Weber and keep the tires you have. GD

Stock size for a 2WD was most likely 165/70r13's.... But you have a carbed EA82, with a 3 speed auto, and the heaviest of the body types (wagon). You are lucky it can get out of it's own way..... with a running start! Get a WEBER. GD

Get a real manual. That site is not correct. If you look on there, it has listed about 5 different codes as "ignition pulse" which is just silly. I'm sure someone here has an FSM.... The EA82 feedback carb system is JUNK. Take it from me - I tried like hell to get it all working correctly. It's just not in the cards. Get a Weber and you'll be much happier. GD

He's right - WD stands for "Water Displacement" (formula #40) and it's also non-conductive. I don't hit the trails without at least a full can. It does also work as a lubricant for a short time - but it evaporates rather quickly. There are much better products for loosening rust and freeing stuck parts. And for lubrication of most automotive joints (door hinges, switches, etc) I prefer lithium grease. Non conductive, repels water, never evaporates, and comes in a spray can... BTW - a LOT of oils are non-conductive - this is why ignition coils are filled with the stuff..... GD

Ok - need a LOT more info; 1. Complete model of car - EA82 I'm assuming, but what? SPFI (not likely), MPFI or Turbo? Carb? Feedback carb? 2. Procedure you are using to pull the code. 3. Manual you got this informative chart from? Some manuals suck. GD

Yeah - those front diff supports do go bad like that sometimes - the rubber gets old and just falls apart. The excess vibration from the bad u-joint may have been the final straw for it. Definately going to be part of your strange noises that you developed. Probably be able to locate a decent one from a junk yard. I know I could get one up here anyway - if your mechanic can't locate one, PM me. GD

There is no such thing. Not in a general sense. There's a LOT of types of off-roading. From rock crawling to desert race endurance style events. Mud bogging, Dune racing, Trail riding.... what do you want to do? Each comes with it's own challenges and requirements. GD

That's true, but the crank angle sensor should be the same. Should still work. GD

Well - I think you are mistakenly thinking that AWD is more common..... it's actually extremely rare on the EA series. Only the 88/89 "Full Time 4WD" turbo's got them. Not impossible to find, but I could lay hands on 10 4WD 5 speed D/R's tommorow if I wanted that many. No - I'm serious. If I wanted an AWD 5 speed tommorow..... well I might just not get it at all. GD

Find another block - EA81's are just too easy to work on. For the price of a tank of gas for that suburban you can probably get it up again. GD