GeneralDisorder

The chime thing is retarded. Especially in ford vehicles of the early to mid 90's. The ignition switches in these are very touchy, and after only a few thousand miles, you actually have to jiggle it most of the time to get the chime to come on at all. Stop car, shut off, remove key, open door..... nothing. Jiggle the lock, and she'll start chiming away if you have left the keys in it, or left the lights on. Worse than a chime actually, since you know you have one, but it doesn't work all the time. Very annoying. GD

$20 for everyting you can carry? :boohoo: I want to play too......:moon: I'm a big boy, they might have to charge me $25...... GD

I'm painting mine Xterra orange. It happens to be the subtractive opposite of the dark blue that my interior is made of. Try to pick something that will complement your interior color. GD

Hhhhmmm - must be something in the air that we don't have out here on the left coast. Sounds like fun tho - maybe you could package it and sell it or something. hehe GD

Damn! I've done it again... My mind just isn't what it was apparently. I must have remembered your name from Miles when he was up here. You guys have such strange names...... pretty cool actually. I've never met anyone with names like you guys that hang with Miles. Is it just the area of the country you live in maybe? GD

Hey - good to see you on the board feece - what are you driving these days? You remember me I'm sure :wave: GD

Nope - that radio adaptor fits just fine: (your right about the cutting tho) http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo56/84_wagon_deck That's my car BTW. I just don't think the cup holder would have enough clearance with the shifter while open - unless you bent the shifter rod backwards. GD

No damage. Except your time to put on another, and perhaps your sanity if it breaks far from home. GD

You can fix it - you just bent up some suspension parts it sounds like - should be no problem at all. You can get all that stuff at the JY for peanuts. GD

That sucks about your car - just get some JY parts, and it will be good to go again. What did you hit BTW? GD

I'm just remembering what one of the mechanics in my National Guard unit did for his drink in a 2 1/2 ton truck. The doors are perfectly flat on top, and just made from painted steel. He used a magnet from a speaker, and a steel enameled coffee cup. hehehe worked pretty good too. And looked hella funny going down the freeway - with a coffee cup sitting on the door. Looked like it was about to fall out. GD

Yeah - I love it that way - I never forget to turn my lights on. All mine have had that feature. Really nice for in-town driving at night. Sometimes you don't even notice your lights aren't on because of the street lights.... the cops don't like that much. GD

Agreed - but since these go out so often it seems, I have played with the idea of having an automotive electrical shop rebuild one for me. When you have it done like that specifically for YOU by a local shop, they tend to do a much better job than the big rebuilders who do thousands of them every month. I was thinking about this on my wagon which has the digi-dash, and after hearing about so many of these that have failed I got to thinking. It seems that often times the replacement alt's you get from auto parts stores go bad in just a few days, so even reeplacing the alt on a regular basis (say every year) just on general principle to ward off the dreaded digi-dash burn-up seems like a risky operation. The only thing I could think of was having it professionally rebuilt for ME instead of buying a rebuilt unit. I know a place around here that I think will do it. They did my disty, and they were cheap, fast, oustanding service, and they even polished and painted it for me I think they do alt's too, and I'm going to check into it very soon. Here's their web site - I can HIGHLY reccomend them for disty rebuilds: http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

If it's just a matter of the intake holes, and if .020 lined up still, then your only talking .020 to get the holes to line up with the heads shaved to .040.... couldn't you just drill out the intake manifold holes a little bigger and still use it that way? Maybe shave on the intake passages to take off the edge where they got offset.... just a thought, and I've never done it, so maybe there's a reason you can't? You mentioned that sleeve spinning before Ken - by "operation" are you refering to the boring operation itself, or are you saying they will spin when you put the engine into operation (ie: running)? If so.... how does CCR do their engines? There must be a method that ensures this won't happen - do they just re-sleeve the block? I'm just curious because I intend to build an engine for the wagon eventually. GD

I can tell you for sure that there's not enough clearance for that in a manual EA81. Don't know about the EA82's tho. I've tightened up the shifter real good, and there's still not enough. Maybe if you angled the shifter backwards a bit - like bent the rod. GD

You *could* swap out the dash, but it would be a LOT of work. The wiring harness is different, and you would have to swap all the idiot light switches under the hood for the correct sending units for the guages. Not as easy as just swapping the dash. Actually - I kind of like the DL setup myself. It was very simple, but I like simple..... GD

So true Qman - I was saying that there wasn't anything out there for wheels, body kits, etc as far as *new* stuff goes. You are right that there is still the occasional vintage peice that shows up for our cars, and there's a few guys on the board (like yourself) that generally find that stuff. It's not luck, it's the willingness to be out there trolling for it every day. To look at the auctions on ebay and to bid when you find something. I still say a BOLD list of links that take you directly to pre-formed searches woud be easy to make, and really helpfull for people that are new to the site - a big banner that says "WHEELS AND TIRES" that took them to a search of the forum containing information about those topics. Emphasis on the search function, and maybe a BIG banner saying "please search for the answer to your question before posting" would be nice. If would alleviate us having to rehash the same thing over and over. Also - the more we do that, the more difficult it will be to actually do searches. As the database gets larger, search times will increase, and the amount of results you get back will be HUGE. It will be harder to find all the information because narrowing the search will be very difficult, and the number of threads you get back with a search like "wheels" will be many many pages long. This problem will only be excerbated by the lack of good searching skills that many people have, as they will be unable to narrow their search criteria with the proper search string formatting. Maybe we could use a FAQ on that as well..... GD

Yes - it was, but it was destroked to 997 cc to be legal in the 1.0L class. It had a 1.0L crank and connecting rods. The only reason they used the 1.2L block was to get bigger valves so the engine would breath better - good idea actually. So it WAS a 1.0L justy they used for bonneville And if you read the article, it actually says in there that it's a 9 valve engine. I don't know any of this from experience, as I have never torn down a justy motor. I've read a lot about them, and read through many a thread on the board about them..... I'll get one sooner or later for rally. GD

While I do not doubt you Ken, my parts car was an 84 DL 4WD Wagon, and it had a hill-holder.... was that because it was 4WD? I guess it could have been added, but it didn't look that way. (edit) I see that you called it an "option", so I guess that's the answer - it must have had that option! GD

You guys are right - there is stuff like performance engine parts availible, but when you can get an EJ22 and tranny including the car it came in (wrecked) for $700 (The price of a single aircraft head), the aircraft parts don't seem quite as good of a deal anymore. Also - with the aircraft stuff, your going to get more HP and torque, but the rest of the drivetrain will not be upgraded to match it. The EA81 tranny's wouldn't handle that kindof power I would wager. The first 5k RPM clutch dump with a 200 HP EA81 might just be the last. I have yet to see a single car with these "aircraft" mods in it. I'm all for performance, and the aircraft guys use these because (for them) they are a cheap alternative to real aircraft engines. Even at $10,000, a built EA81 is still cheaper than good airplane engines. And they don't use our transmissions, so they haven't designed any mods for the transmissions to keep up with the HP of the engine. I'm not saying the suff isn't cool, and all, just that it's not designed for cars, and isn't priced where car people can afford it. We shouldn't need it anyway, as there are plenty of more powerful subaru engines to be had if we want performance. Think of the potential of the EJ22? There's tons of aftermarket stuff for that engine that was designed for cars. I for one like that FAQ idea, but unfortunately, I don't think it would help (much) with the newbie question problem. If they can't use a search engine, then they won't use a FAQ either. How about a list (in BIG BOLD letters) of links to searches for stuff like wheels, EA81 performance, EA82 performance, etc. The link would take them right to the search results for that topic...... easier to write than a full FAQ, and will also teach them the value of a well worded search. GD

If your going to charge BIG puddles, put a switch on the radiator fan to keep it from throwing water all over the place. If your going swimming, you might want to do the snorkel kit - it's about $100 GD

Hey - that's cool, they list camber plates for the brumby, and shipping is $23? it looks like to the US. Hard to understand their site, but that's what it looks like - $110 + $23 shipping. That's not horrible if you need that type of adjustment. They look pretty well-designed. GD

Hondasucks- You had a 4 spd 2WD? Never heard of that before - was that a typo? GD

The EA71 pistons do indeed increase the compression - to around 9.5:1 in a normal engine. CCR will even put them in for you if you ask them to on engines they build. GD

NOT true - an EA81 tranny will still be very tight. The floorpan sheetmetal is actually different, and may or may not be big enough. It depends on many factors - year, transmission type, and others. There's something like 7 different part numbers for the floor pan sheet metal. We've been through this before.... http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2944&highlight=tranny+tunnel GD