bertmann73

there are snow tires available with a decent tread pattern but if you want a more aggressive pattern you may have to go 14-15" wheels

agreed. she is a rare beauty and not many opportunities to find a 4wd wagon in that condition and beauty is in the eye of the beholder.. if i had 5,500 to throw away would buy it simply because the owner has earned it for taking such good care of her..realisticaly i would pay 3-4g tops.

I would check e-bay first for a weber or craigslist even scrap yards if you are lucky. webers are tough and used ones are just as good as new ones. the only thing to worry about with a used one is to check the butterfly throttle assembly for too much play, the accelerator pump diafragm on the outside and power valve diaphragm inside the bowl hanging upside down when you lift the top off. also sit it on a flat surface and check if anyone has over torqued the base plate. if so you can sand it flat again. the weber new is gonna cost around 250-300 depending on where you find it. I was lucky enough to find one on craigslist for 20 bones and the other at a yard sale in arizona for 10 bones.

I love those cars...wanna find one someday and give it an ea81 and 5 speed............Someday .

Where are my manners.....Welcome..... and one hell of an entrance!

weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!! ...why would we ever drive anything else. thats one brave girl.

this thread has also sparked my interest as i am interested if you can actually gain any performance by using an ea82 intake on an ea81. also if you get that ea81 on a 5 speed you will have a combo i have been looking for for a long time. i have never owned an ea82 and i can see alot of mixed emotions about it here. like any engine ever made..if you take care of it ..it will take care of you. but for me the ea81 is superior cuz that seems to be a whole lot of mess for such a small increase in horsepower and the ea81 is practically bulletproof. i say go for it and keep us posted.

thats up to my son..probably gonna copy what i did to the wagon and just stretch out the span of the rear swing arms and use gen2 axles instead of swappin for gen 2 assembly...adds too much weight. gotta re-build the engine cuz i was wearin it out in the wagon after i blew mine up.

sorry s long to respond to you but been busy and cant post anymore pics on this site, i did alot of forum searching and found an easy way actually on a moto-x web site. you can be very careful and do it on a grinding wheel and then polish it with 800 grit sand paper. the trick is to leave the cam in the split case an on each lobe find the spot where the cam starts to lift the cam follower. just hold your finger on the other end of the lifter and feel for it. you can mark with a sharpie or eyeball it.. its just to familiarize yourself with the concep of making the circle smaller and leaving the lobe the same. i only took down 1 mm of material as this will equal about 4 or 5 mm of counteraction on the valve..too much and you risk opening too far and hitting pistons or messin up springs... i am in no way a professional and i kinda eyballed alot of it but took alot of time and care not to over grind but it did give my soob some gallup. it off sets the timing by about 4 degrees of advance as the engine runs hotter when set at 8 btdc and pre-detonates. so i set it at about 2 degrees btdc. it also has more valve poppin when decellerating which sounds grizzly in my home made exhaust system. this combined with the head porting, intake porting and oversized ea71 pistons does really nice with the 26" tall tires and will spin them out in first and second gear.

for those who have not seen the posts in members rides here is an update on my wagon....had a rod bearing go on my way to arizona about 8 months ago so i cannibalized the brat to keep it going for a while. just got the rebuild finished and tuned. when i tore it down i found all the bearings good besides the rod bearing that gave out. either a bad bearing or a bad grind..i'm guessing bad grind. I found a virgin ea81 from a guy that has a connection in Utah. he brought it down and let me have it for 100 bones. he said he had it running and it smoked.......plugs were gas fouled and oil wreaked of old gas. my guess was carb problems. gas getting into the crank case and thinning out the oil = bad ring mis-diagnosis. I was right. i took the crank, rods and flywheel and incorporated them into my already built engine that broke down...just polished the crank journals and de-glazed the cylinders as the bearing had left its mark in two of them. this engine has some power and i need to hold back alot so i dont blow it up again. the donor engine is prestine and will be built as soon as i find a new set of pistons. i was running the engine out of my sons 78 brat and it was tired and beginning to tap out therefore i could not have gotten it done any sooner. i plan on marrying the crank shaft with the donor engine cuz the old engine has a bad rear engine bolt thread and i had to score the threads of an over-sized bolt and tap it in to avoid taking her apart to heli-coil the hole...held pretty good though. next step is paint..gonna do matte blue with flat black striping and decal matching the original white decals...love the subaru decals on the back quarter. anyway best wishes to all and thanks for always being here.

agreed. exhaust hanger...that steel is solid and it will take years to rust through. its more of a cosmetic issue at this point and as long as nobody is looking under your soob it wont be noticed. some high temp engine paint works fine if it bothers you.

I may have to wait a bit before i let the carb go. My brother in law came across an 81 brat that has been taken apart an i don't know if i need it or not at this point. Funny thing is he hates 4wd but loves brats. i am going to swap out the rear swing arms for the ones that came off my wagon and give it a 5 speed 2wd drive train. this will be an interesting build as it goes against my every fiber to make a 4wd 2wd. but if thats what he wants i will gladly accept the challenge. I will post pics as soon as we go pick it up.

is it compatible with your intake?

yea but its a one bbl small carb and not a 26/32. i will probably give it away if someone wants to pay shipping for it

a light bulb and an alligator clip is all i ever use to test circuits.

i would check the wires to the disty first for any loose connections. your fuel pump usually runs only when the engine is running and the alternator is providing current for it. you should have one hot wire and one that finds its way to the coil. test both with a circuit tester to see if yo have power. if you do then you will probably need to change the module. if not you have a bad connection or fuse. check also for any ground wires from the chassis to the engine and make sure its grounded good. thats all i have until i get a brain fart later. good luck.

great work and glad you put that weber on. i gave up on the hi-crotchies long ago..webers rule you have been through alot and never gave up on that soob....definately makes you one of the clan...keep up all the great work and good luck.

the carb is actually a weber...anyone got insight on these? i dont want to toss it aside if someone needs it.

i know the feelin bro..best of luck with your toy..

Anyhoo...my engine has been re-built and put back..it took me a couple of days to de-glaze and clean but the re-build went fast except for dropping the last wrist pin circlip inside the block..then having to pop the piston back out and shake a 200 pound piggybank for a half hour until it finally fell back out but i did the swap in all of 5 hours and had her fired up before dinner.....purrs like kitty

its not that hard really..just a bit of madness to think of how to do it on my part without buying kits and costly stuff. the only thing to fabricate is the control arm extensions...all else is bolt on and you will just need to get 2 cv axles and tie rod ends whether at the junk yard or e-bay where i get all my parts now..i think you already have some sort of strut lift going on which is the cause of your camber issue..this will definitely fix it and i would be happy as a tornado in a trailer park to see someone else do it too. best wishes.

i would pop the pistons out seeing as you already have the motor out and replace the rod bearings ...this is easy to do....if there is no right or left movement when pulling the front pulley the main bearings should be fine...but a few hours more you can split the block and replace all. honing tools are cheap and so are std rings on ebay to deglaze the cylinders. i usually do 50 stokes on each cylinder and replace the rings... peice of mind is a re-build. and bragging rights are"I did it" i used the"how to keep your subaru alive" PDF as a guide when i got my first soob and its written so any dummy can follow it. you will be surprised how easy these engines are to re-build and fun also.

PS. I'm Irish and potatoes rock!!

suuuweeeet man. she still looks untainted and not missin any bells or whistles...great find....keep us up on pics.

i would say gummed up rings also. usually when i get a motor thats been sitting i shoot wd40 down the plug hole and let it sit for a while....could also be a broken ridge and ring as the ea71 are notorious for that. my 78 had a broken piston ridge and ring and was runnin that way for who knows how long until i tore the engine down and noticed,