Ionstorm66

You have to remove the cone nut the free up the hub. I removed the lower ball joint so when i hammed the axle inwards, I didn't drive it into the transmission. On the passenger side it came out with a light tap, didn't have to loosen the knuckle or axle.

If you have no pressure warm, you could have too thin oil or bad pump seal. I have a cheapo multi gauge in my Loyale. Does oil pressure/temp, water temp, vacuum, fuel pressure, and voltage.

Passenger side went without issue. As soon as a popped the lower ball joint out, she wiggled right out of the hub.

I broke two off in it and had the chisel them out.

Just kept beating and it came out. I ended up putting the wheel back on in case it fell over! Also I order new seals. The front outers i got are single lip with no dust shield! Left WJB WS225230 = Bad! Single lip no dust shield Right BECK/ARNLEY 0522227 = OEM double lip with dust shield

Trying to do pads and rotors on my 92 Loyale, and I cant get the axles out of the front hubs. I took the sway bar and lower ball joint out. Removed the roll pin from the transmission, and pulled axle off so the inner is free. Stuck the lower ball joint in, removed the castle nut and flat washer. I can't get the axle to come out of the hub. The cone washer isnt budging, and im wailing on it with a 10# sledge. Almost knocked it clean off the jack stands.

I replaced mine with FMX style fuses, they fit right in the holder. The colors even matched the amp rating on the fusible links. I also carry a spare set in the car now. Way WAY easier than the older links. I had them go bad/come loose on both cars more than once.

I just buy silicone rubber sheets off ebay. I have rolls of it sitting around, and carry some small sheets in car. I NEVER use a paper or cork gasket. Just trace it one the rubber. Makes them reusable too.

Check the ground on the block? Also check the power at the switch while trying to start.

So on my 92 Loyale what is the difference in a 4WD and 2WD front strut? Spring perch/ride height?

You have to have the coil bracket bolted to the car. The transistor is attached to it, and has to be grounded to work.

Either have cruise control?

So today I noticed my seatbelt light is flashing constantly. I believe it's the driver's side automatic belt. The passengers side chimes when you unhook the shoulder belt, but the driver's dosent. Dose the sensor wire come down to the base of the B pillar? I couldn't find anything in the FSM about it.

By no spark after the coil, do you mean you have spark at the coil? If you have spark at the coil and not at the plugs, it's most likely the rotor has come unscrewed in the distributor.

Hot and smoky turbo after a few minutes of not making power would make me think running lean.

So I finally got the roof rack on so I slapped a gas can to finally see if the gas light worked. When it finally ran out I had no gas light, and when I filled it up it only took 12.3 gallons plus the gallon I put in out of the can. I ran out on flat ground and it wouldn't even idle. The manual says it should be 15.9 total and the light should turn on with 2.4 left. Is there a filter or something that may of fallen off the pickup?

They show them in all the sales brochures, and it has a Subaru part number on it.

I'm already replacing the headliner so I will and going to paint and seal it from both sides. Just trying to figure out about where the stock one is placed, and the spacing of the support ribs

Managed to score a factory roof rack from the junkyard today, anyone know exactly where it gets placed? It was a they pull it type yard so I didn't get to see it installed. I was just going to use some rivnuts and seal the holes.

Installed an aftermarket radio and it randomly turns on when opening and closing doors. I verified I have the constant and ignition power wired correctly. It dosent happen all the time, but I have noticed some times when I walk away or up to my car the radio connects Bluetooth, then starts playing music. Maybe something is floating or a switch bounce is causing noise on the ground/ignition.

I cleaned the IAC and it's working because at startup it's idles at 1800-2000 and slowly goes down as it warms up. I don't have any CEL so I don't think and sensors are unplugged. Also I have good vacuum, even at WOT my defroster works. I replaced all the gaskets in the throttle body, and the pvc valve. A new issue is it is hard to start cold. Takes 20 seconds to fire over.

The fuseble links are a huge pita in these old cars. You can swap them to female J case PAL fuses with a little mod to the holder.

I pulled the throttle body to clean and replace the seals due to high idle. Now after putting it back in the car had a very low idle. It will start up at around 1900 rpm, then once warm to idle drops to 5-600. Right at the first tick after 0 on the tach. I adjusted it up a bit with the IAC screw. Now it's at 750 rpm, but it hunts up and down about 100rpm.

It's also possible the oring around the injector has failed. That happened on my 89, just dumped fuel into the intake.