mcbrat

if lifting for bigger tires for off-roading (not rallying) (27"+ tires) then go for a 5 speed D/R from a carb or SPFI 85-89 wagon. the RX D/R or FullTime Box will be better if you are Rallying (no lift)....

okay, maybe more than "just south" Des Moines....

welcome! (from just south of you)

nice. I'm down to just 2 Brats right now, but still looking for a hatch....

http://motors.search-desc.ebay.com/E-2970_W0QQsofocusZbsQQsbrftogZ1QQfromZR10QQsaspiZ2QQsamcmZ6000QQsatitleZE-2970QQsacatZ6000QQcatrefZC6QQftsZ2QQmppfqyZE-2970QQsargnZ-1QQsaslcZ2QQsadisZ200QQfposZQ5AIPQ2FPostalQQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQfsopZ1QQfsooZ1QQcoactionZcompareQQcopagenumZ1QQcoentrypageZsearch

Doesn't look like I'll be able to coordinate anything deemed MW4 this year due to just being too damn busy with stuff..... If someone else want to try to put something together, please do..... Also, if you still want to do some wheeling and camping, check out this thread... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53683 plenty of trails for stock soobs (lifted is better). This place caters generally to quads and sandrails.....

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those look awesome! I'm glad Ed was able to do them for you..... links directly to the pics.... http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI0MjA3MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI0MjA1NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx

grind the red areas down as much as you can... and then I also use a small round file, and slightly oval out the hole in the trut tower towards the engine to give it a little more room to move inward too.

here's an example of too beefy

thanks, that's big enough... I need a switch for another application, as was told the Subaru switch would work, but it's not the same mount type.

the switch by the gas pedal.....

anyone have a pic of the kickdown switch for "passing gear" on a soob with an AT?

okay, fixed the drivers side window (wire unplugged) got rid of the bad tranny (now has one from a '86 Brat....) new battery cable lights on the roof ... and stuff still in progress.... new front wheel bearings new front axles some new brake pads lights on brush guard hope to have it all put back together tomorrow, so I can take it on a road trip Friday.....

if it only happens above 40, then I'd say its a tire feature since you just redid the bearings, you might want to have the alignment checked out too.....

I have a set of these for the off-roader

to help with your camber, do this.... take your strut lift blocks and grind off all the areas in red on the top plate... and be sure you have beaten the snot out of the inner strut tower to allow the strut to move in at the top, and not rub. you may also want to slightly oval the strut mount hole towards the engine, to allow the top to move even further towards the engine. These things will help your camber....

okay, if you check the link "7.62" gave you, I have put the pictures back out there so they show up. it's a holley 600 cfm, with vacuum secondaries. I used a standard 2bbl->4bb adapter, and had to slot the 2bbl mount slots a bit narrower to fit the weber bolt pattern, and I used a regular ea81 hitachi to weber adapter with it... and some spacers I believe. the idle is controlled by the secondary throttle plate, so I had to adjust it a bit to even get it to idle around 1000 rpms. otherwise, it was at about 1500 it was great at WCSS7, in the gravel pit. it loves high revs. I have since switched back to a weber, as the holley was zero fun to drive around town because it wasn't really happy until about 2500 rpms, and it made town driving really unpleasant... I did take it on a 2 day trail ride, and for the times when I could rev it high, it was great, but for the most part, if you are doing twisty slow going trails, you have to keep it revved all the time. it also had lots more issues with the severe angles. quit on me lots. since I switched back to the weber, no angle problems any more.... it was a fun experiment though... I still have it (w/o air filter assembly) and the adapter....

replacement struts do not come with the strut mounts or springs. you will need to take the strut mounts and springs off your existing front struts, and put them on the replacement struts. if you buy the replacement struts/mounts from NAPA, they have a spring compressor that you can use... (at least they used to work it that way, for a refundable deposit)... be sure and regrease the thrust bearing in the strut mounts though...

was it the red one in Iowa?

I had a feeling they might have come from you.... though I have found multiple boxes of decals out there... it was like a treasure hunt the gen1 brat 3 color is a printed color decal, (plus, I'd recognize it ) the way the decal "curves" leads me to believe it is for a Gen1. They have "SUBARU" in the rear section of the decal.... so I at least know they are for a soob actually, any gen1 fender length, or Gen1 2-door door length will work for those measurements.....

I've been busy cleaning out (getting rid of) lots of my accumulated parts from the last several years and I came across a NOS set of decals. don't remember where I got 'em, but they appear to be for a gen1 2 door. it's a 3 color (red/black/white) cut vinyl horizon stripe. (at door handle level, the entirelength of the car) I need the following measurements (at door handle height) off a GEn1 2 door for reference... fender length from front edge to door. length of door distance from rear of door to knob on gas cap total length of rear quarter (rear of door to backend) My decal equipment can't replicate these because it doesn't like long straight lines

looks like a cover for a seat rail, where it mounts....

No, EA81 steering shafts are not the same as EA82, but the EA82 is the same as the Impreza I believe....

what kind of a seat does an Imp set in? or are they from a sunbeam Imp?