nipper

Try searching here, there is so much information you may not be able t search Let me start you off with a basic lesson http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm Basically the clutch pack is cooked form 2 wheel towing. Subaru uses a viscous coupling in the center.

Tons of information on automatics, search "Torque Bind"

Dont go cheap, you will be doing the job again soon. You need a quality timing belt, wter pump, cam and main seals, idler and tensioner. Someone already cheaped out doing it once (leaky water pump gives it away). They skipped the water pump last time, only god knows what else they skipped.

We need to forget book value, its more like is it worth it to you to fix it or go through the joy of car shopping. What gary said.

It's surprising what the knock sensor can do. It can do all sorts of weird things.

They havent changed much over the years, so that video should give you a clue

OK a legit supplier, i was wondering if it was an ebay counter-fit.

I would replace the belt, get a different brand, and tell Gates about it. Where did you source the kit from?

For fun

Gary if this wasnt from you, I would seriously question a Unimog post What year is it. What state is it in. Aside from size (BIGBIGIBG) it should be a straight forward job.

Did you replace your water pump and idler as well?

And computers. Computers have made it so Autos can now take a beating and last the life of the car. The torque unloading at the time of the shifting (you dont feel it as a driver) has made automatics as reliable and almost as fast as manuals. But I am holding my opinion on anything more then a 5sp auto.

Do you know enough on how to pull the codes, it would be a start to see whats upsetting it, and yes, just as you thought its cutting at 5k to limp mode.

You may want to replace the cable as they dont last forever.

I think its them, as it works on my PC, lap top and tablet, but not my phone.

The link doesnt work on my S5 (verizon) either, how odd.

I blame garden gnomes, evil things.

How odd it just worked for me. Clear your cache it may be a problem on your computer

No need to drop the tank, its all done from inside the car. Get a used pump or new one, but JUST THE PUMP. No need to replace the entire assembly.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/

Its simple, its heat. What may seem flat to uou still requires more work by the transmission and internal friction to shift. Actually Autos are better at towing then manuals as you dont have a clutch. Autos multiply torque. If you get a manual with a granny gear its better for towing. Modern automatics will shut off a cylinder or two right at the shift to reduce strain on the clutches. Automatics are not junk, most car enthusiast opinions are junk as they are holding onto 20-30-40 year old theories. Also towing in general requires not using OD D4. In a stick the car lugs you know to downshift, in an auto it hunts and wears out fast, and thats drivers error. Use D3 and slow down a tad.

Did you do anything to the flywheel? Did you replace the pressure plate?

I am about to enter the world of collectors car insurance on the Justy. They all require that its not a daily driver. Some have mileage limits (but really they dont check). I checked myself and the highest mileage year was Sandy and I put 3800 miles on it, so it can pay. It covers replacement value, spares, etc.

If your looking to buy something for tow duty, you can do much better with a good old fashioed v-8. If its for ocassional towing a sooby wit an automatic can do it with a tranny cooler and gauge and upgraded brakes

You have to find a parts car to make it easier for you. It can be done, is a lot of work