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Everything posted by nipper
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Po705 code
nipper replied to bdecriscio's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Yes its the same switch. Check the condition of the cable. I think what this means is that there may be somethig wrong with the switch overall, as oposed to the inhibitor switch (positions P and N) itself. But dont quote me on that. Clear the code and see if it comes back. nipper -
Cam seals Main seal re-seal the valvecovers (or at least inspect them to see if they are leaking). To do those you need to remove the timing belt, so you know what that means..... timing belt, tensioner, idler and waterpump (since you are already there). Inspect the back of the engine and see if you have an oil leak there. If you do thats the plastic seperator plate leaking. Also sonething that you should do today, is replace the PCV valve. That will remove some stress off the seals and help reduce leaking. nipper
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1 month = 1000 miles. You are overdue for a timing belt and all the associated parts. You can also use a tranny fluid change. The airbag inspection came about because no one was really sure how long the SRS would remain functioning. Right now it is assumed they last the life of the car. All the dealer is going to do is scan the SRS puter for any issues, which is what the SRS light on the dashbaord is for. I would skip it. nipper
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Make sure tires match. Make sure the FWD holder under the hood on the pass side is empty. Drive the car in a full lock (tight) circle. The car should be able to do this at idle or slight throttle. If Tehre is TB you will notice the car will lurch constantly, and it may not even be able to make a tight turn. On lurch when first starting the manuver is ok (thats the puter figuring things out) but more then one is bad. TB is very obvious when it happens, it is a "gee that aint right" moment. This goes for manuals or autos. nipper (exceppt manuals dont have a fuse or a computer)
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My mileage took a huge dump when mine went bad. i lost almost 6mpg on the highway and 4-6 in the city. It has gotten much better, but i think i may need plugs now from the bad O2 sensor. i got mine from www.1stsubaru.com. it was on sale, so i dont know if the prices (and mine is a 97) still apply. The alternative is you have a bad cat, but at that mileage, your going to need a O2 either way, so its not throwing money away. nipper
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Behind the back seat under the floor are two plates Remove the screws and the plates (dont loose the tiny screws). Under those are the sending units. Passenger side has the light and fuel pump, right side has the sender, remove them (dont loose the tiny nuts). Clean the wipe arm surface of the senders with a hard pencil eraser (that may help the gauge). Inspect the bracket for damage. The light sender may be bad. It should be obvious as to which one it is. they dont go bad often but it happens. nipper
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Well a belated welome then. nipper
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yes. Svx issues are from the lockup clutch chedding material. You need a an external cooler and an external line filter for the tranny. They are expensive toys. The windshield is 800.00. the rear wheel bearings are weak. Parts are expensive. Strong engines, very safe cars. Automatic HVAC which seems to be aging well. They are almost like a trophy wife. really pretty, expensive, but may be worth every penny.
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What weight oil is in the car, and what is the outside temp? Does the oil pressure go down once the car is warmed. Over tightening the valve cover gaskest is a common cause of leaking, followed by beinding the covers from prying them off from stubborn gaskets.
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The low fuel light sensor is installed on a fixed bracket in the fuel tank. Subaru fuel level sensors are known for being inaccurate, but usually read on the low side (showing empty at 10 gallons). You have the reverse issue maybe. Fill up the tank and tell us how many miles you go untill the light stays on. nipper
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what can replace a 2.5 liter 1999 outback engine
nipper replied to danby's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
he doesnt say where the mix is happnening, and i am assuming its in the radiator. I am not a big fan of replacing an engine just because another one is less prone to blow HG's. You are buying an unknown engine with unknown maint history. Also you still have to invest a chunk of change in it. If the engine is NOT in a running car, you have no idea what you are buying either. Get the original engine a compression test to see the condition of the rings in the other side of the engine. in soobys if one side is good, odds are the other side is too. Once the HG is replaced, as long as it is done properly, it is done. As long as you have not cooked the engine, and it has under 150,000 miles its worth fixing. if either one of those apply, then start shopping for a replacement. nipper