nipper

er um er Would you think i was crazy if i said njdrsubaru and i thought we saw it on one of the runs? Just saying. Lets see if we can do something in march. i am getting the iitch . nipper

If you have to tap an electric motor to get it moving, it has a tired bushing on a bad winding. I would replace it. nipper

Alot of these parts would be much easier to change before you leave on the trip then carrying it as a spare. nipper

That is how most things are, either it works or doesnt. EUREKA! http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=9053 "For a minimally intrusive possibility, you could try a thermistor inserted in the tank at a level, like 1/8 up from the bottom. With enough current (in the milliamp range) thermistors become self-heating. When immersed in the gas, the liquid will carry off heat, so the resistance will stay fairly high. When in air, the resistance will drop. " Google is your friend.

or a carrier bearing.

heheh well (yes forgive me i plead tonka toy lust) i was rading an 2008 Jeep manual and it said on the auto it will crank for three seconds. The manual did not have that feature since you can start it in gear if you need to get unstuck. nipper

I dont like you. How long have you had this problem. Is ti warm eh nough for you to use a spray bottle of water to look for vacume leaks?

hehehehe untill cougar posted it i could never figure out how the silly things worked. For all i knew it could have been a really timy floating cork on a switch

If it happens againe, put the car in neutral and see if it starts. If it does its the inhibitor switch, if it doesnt its hte starter contacts. nipper As an interesting PSA, more and more new cars are mking the ignition switch more like a key operated "boot" switch. I've been seeing more and more owners manuals stating "to start the car turn the key and release, do not hold the key. The engine will continue to crank for (insert time here) untill the engine starts". I wonder how many people realize this.

Even if it is perfectly fine, if it gives you peace of mind, replace it. nipper

HA! This is from cougar http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86194&highlight=fuel+light The low fuel sensor works a little different than the normal fuel level sensor. The low fuel sensor is a thermistor and has no moving parts or contacts that can cause trouble. So when it shows low I would tend to believe it and stop at the next station for a fill up. From wikipedia A thermistor is a type of resistor with resistance proportional to its temperature. The word is a portmanteau of thermal and resistor. Thermistors are widely used as inrush current limiters, temperature sensors, self-resetting overcurrent protectors, and self-regulating heating elements. nyahnyahnyahnyah *whew* cause my electronic skills suck

Any axles replaced? Any Codes or CEL? Inspect the transmission mount. and thrpttttt for making life hard for me. ALso check for vacume leaks. I truly hope an airfilter has been changed since 10,000 miles ago. hehehehe

If it was me, I would say yes. not much differnce between 97 and 98 excpet one has a pointy number and one has a curved number nipper

There are these things called tune-ups. Thats the first place to start New OE wires New OE recomended plugs fuel filter PCV valve Air Filter If there is oil on the tip of the old plug wires you will need new valve cover gaskets and seals. Then after that if we still have an issue we will dig further. nipper

Actually it doesnt cost anything but time to get to the fuel sensors. They are extreemly easy to get to (look under the carpet behind the back seats). The technron does work, but sometimes you still need to dig into them and using a hard bencil eraser clean then manually, and even then the results are not stellar. Also keep in mind that i think these are temp sensors. When they are exposed to air they are warmer then sitting in gasoline and triggering the light (I think). The cold temps can be confusing it. Besides better too early then too late Can also be that it is so cold that the volume of the fuel is low enough to trigger the light, but the energy potnetial of the fuel has not changed, so you get the same range. Fluids do expand and contract in temp changes. nipper

Have you ever replaced the igintion wires on this car? nipper

Sort of make the throttle blipping a gimmik then. i was hoping sooby wouldnt buy into gimmicks. nipper

Well part of the reason you dont hear of it is beacuse we replace them before it fails. And once again subaru recomneds it. There are a few threads here for a failed waterpump. But do what you wish, its your money and car to blow apart. I'm going to unsubcribe from this thread. nipper

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/02/24/automatic-equipped-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-a-line-available-in-ja/ It seems to be a paddle shifted manual gear box maybe? Or a tweaked automatic? nipper

I read that as the fluid was replaced 15,000 miles ago, not the tranny. nipper

It was a joke..... sheesh if his spedo thinks its going 130mph, then its possible his odometer is reading the same thing (very very fast). i'll go back to my dark corner now.

heheh well you want to expalin to him why he needs monthly oil changes nipper

Always fill up the radiator with the car running, optherwise you can get a false full reading or an airbubble in the cooling system. SO does he know how to check the other fluids under the hood too? nipper

So it never occured to you that the solenoid contacts in the starter can be bad? By no noise do you mean no cranking? Why did you not think the starter/ignition switch is bad, since the ECU has ntohing to do with the starter engaging. If the ECU was bad you would have bigger problems, so I am not convinced thats a issue. Right now thats like assuming since your foot fell asleep you had a stroke. nipper