nipper

Actually you want sheep.

Ok since no one else has said it yet..... is that funny HAHA or funny HEHE

What brand wires? They REALLY need to be OE. nipper

And donkeys are 4 wheel drive nipper

ooooooooooooooo sparklies

Use OE wires. Check for oil leaks at the grommits in the center of the valve cover. Thie oil will compromise the wires and cause what you are seeing too. nipper

i too live on Long Island, You must see the horrific accidents we have here from teenagers having cars that are way too powerful them. Get him somehting slightly underpowered, a stick, that he can work on for the first few years. Otherwise he can walk nipper

So buy it for her nipper

Just blindly swapping out parts wont solve anything. Have you looked at the tires, rear wheel bearings, rear brakes to rule those out? nipper

Yuor the first i am to hear of this in a 2004. It may be possible that yours is just a fluke (build enough of anything and one or two are bound to be bad). i would suspect the conditioner had nothing to do with it, as you have a 10-80 psi source leaking into a 14 psi liquid. It's nice to hear that your getting taken care of. nipper PS. Get an oil change done too.

i dont mind Blu making me look like an idiot, its the snickering i can't stand nipper

The automatics last pretty much the life of the car. Personally if it was me buying my son his first car, it would be a clean wagon, with a manual, and let him learn how to drive the manual. It will stay with him the rest of his life, the skill of driving a stick. nipper

Did you by any chance knock off the vacume hose at the snoorkus box or air intake box (everyone seems to do this). nipper

An svx has too much power for a 16yo. Its an expensive car to repair when womething goes wrong, and it will, with a 16yo driving. Get him a imprezza or an earlier subaru he can bend and not have anyone cry over it. A first car for a young driver should be on the tank side of the equation, and easy to fix. IMHO nipper

They really arent bad, especially if you mechanically challanged. nipper

Residual heat, or they actually are one of the few people (and cudos for them) that read thier dashbaord regularly. They saw the needle go up (the start of the incident), they cooled off the heater core. What ever mechanisim was going on to make them loose coolant, reduced the coolant level. The next time, no coolant in core, no heat. And we all know that cause and effect doesnt always work with sooby engines and head gaskets. nipper

The heater on subarus are higher then the engine block, and they are a branch line right off the water pump. This is why the can get full of air and blow cold even when the car is over heating. nipper

If your car has 85K, have some one look at it. If you are leaking form the HG area eternally, you can get it fixed for free by subaru under an exented warrenty program. The first thing we need you to do is have the coolant conditioner added to the car that is sold by subaru. Just go in and buy it and add it. Then with the proof of the reciept, you can argue a new HG. Someone will have the link for the program. nipper

er um no. If the drive belt was THAT tight, the alt, ps, and or AC bearings would give out first (or the belt would snap). This is a HUGE warning sign that the main pully (vibration damper) has worked itself loose. It's akin to being 500 lbs and having your left arm ache, and calling it indigestion. The pully will work itself loose if it had not been properly retorqued. The insidous thing is that it can happen months after it was removed. It chews up the nose of the cam shaft in the process. This is a issue that all sooby owners of 2.2 and 2.5 need to be fully aware of. Rubbing against the timing belt cover doesnt happen from an over tightend belt. It happens by either a loose cover (obvious) or a loose pully (obvious when running as you can see the wobble). nipper

Well the first really bad sign is the tank is way too high, and there is only one way they get that way. Something is making i tover heat, and the short cycling sort of rules out most things mentioned. Get your self a new radiator cap and the overflow back to the normal level. With some luck that may cure it. Also you need to look INTO the raidiator, not just the over flow tank. What condition is the fluid in? What color, anything floating in it? I'm begining to think that you have a leaky (external) HG. This is the better of the two choices. You need to keep an eye on the coolant leve and let someone look at the car. It sounds like the coolant leaked out the leaky HG, got low, and the car over heated. If it was a blown HG you would have a full overflow. Look under the car and see if the engine is wet. Again how many miles are on this car, as this may be a free fix, or discounted fix at the dealer. good luck

Just an FYI, at least once a month you should pop the hood and check the fluids in the car, as they are the car's life blood. Learn where they are, how to check them, and how to top them off. This is critical for engine oil and coolant. Engine oil does get "consumed" over time, and a qt between oil changes (depending upon your interval) is nothing to be alarmed about, but should be topped off. Coolant can disapear with time also if never checked. It is possible this was a one time thing (cars do that on occasion), and it should have been checked as soon as the car cooled down. How many miles on this car, when was the last time the coolant was changed, and has a timing belt been done recently? nipper

As everyone has said, this is one of those few DO NOT START THE CAR things get it checked out asap to minimze crankshaft damage. nipper

Thermostat would not come back down. It would stay hot, and repeatedly heat up if stuck closed. HG issue you wont have any heat when the car overheats, because the combustion pressure has pushed all the coolant out of the heater ocre. Has anyone bothered to pop the hood and actually LOOK at the coolant levels? One cheap thing to try is replace the radiator cap. Sometimes they go bad (just age) and show the same symptons, but i bet its a HG. 1300-1500 is a good price range. Thye dont cause other issues as long as you stop driving the car when it over heats, or get the temp back down, and replace any lots coolant. You will also need to do a oil change at the same time. nipper

A leaky injector is going to happen weather he has every sensor plufgged in or not, that really is out of the scope of this discussion. The ECU has no control over a leaking injector (which would show up as a fouled plug with a tuneup). Also if it backfired it would trigger a flashing cel light (we would hope). Thats also why i suggested a fuel pressure gauge. nipper

Disconnecting anything will keep the ecu in open loop mode. You wont damage the catalytic converters in this mode. This loop is desgned not to hurt anything. Same with limp mode. In limp mode, you may not even be able to drive over 50 mph.