nipper

and the distance of the muffler on the pipe from the cats or engine, the placement of the mounts, its really very complicated to figure out, and sometimes you can you only get it right by experimenting. nipper

That is one of three things. Either the inhibitor switch is bad, the starter and/or starter contacts are bad, or the battery cables and connections need cleaning. Start with the last one. Very slight chance its the ignition switch but I doubt it. Do you have an alarm on this car? You can disconnect the smalle lead at the starter and check that one with a meter or a test light to see if it is getting power when the key is turned. If not, its the inhibitor switch. ANother thing to try. With your foot on the brake, turn the key to crank. Hold it there while you slowly move the gear selector from park to drive. See if there is someplace the starter will kick. Set the parking brake for this, as the car may start. nipper

Just proceed slowly when you take it apart. You know.... Just thinking..... i remember there being a board (you can really dissasemble the spedo dopwn to almost nothing). I would start by just swapping the logic board and see if that clears it up. nipper

Its a surprisingly simple thing to pop out of its clamps and set. As was noted above, I dont know why they changed the method of assembly. i guess with almost all cars getting inspected by plugging into a computer, its hard to lie about the mileage. The patient part is to get all the numbers straight. You should be able to just pop yours out (tape the number so they dont move) and pop it into the new one. nipper

Actually you can set the odometer if you have patience and a small screwdriver. I have done it when i was going to swap spedos. I would suggest you cleaning all the connections and screw terminals on yours first to see if that solves the problem. nipper

A resonator will help, but that boom noise is normal for all 4 cylinder engines. You can modify the sound, but never get rid of it totally. nipper

You cant tell by looking at an TB if the timing belt is good. Start with the timing belt, make sure the car is still in time. Timing belts also suffer from age as well as mileage. The biggest reason for a subaru to just die while accelerating is the timing belt. nipper

Define "won't start" DOes it crank? If it doesnt then Neutral will work and you will need an inhibitor (neutral saftey ) switch. If it does crank, check for spark. ALso we need to know how many miles on this car. nipper

yes, i would say good for a day or three nipper

how many miles on this car? How long have you owned it? nipper

Its only CV related if you get cheap axles. I think the problem is the axles being too tight dimensionally. If you have had a vibration all along, i would look at things like vacume leaks, tune up, or bad motor mounts. nipper

Well you can get pretty bad vibration to where the car may be undriveable. The shaft may strip, and then be there just for decoration. You can replace just one, no need to do both sides, unless the other side has dry rot or cracked boots. Don't go cheap on the exles, you will end up with a driveline vibfation at idle. go to the ccr engines website and get the axles either there, or from subaru. nipper

DO a search using "knock sensor". There will be a pic in one of those posts. nipper

A tree grew

Didnt i just say i expierienced it? It gums up the tiny itsy bitsy fuel ports in the carb or fuel injectors so fuel wont atomize. It depends upon how big the ports are. ALso if you put in fresh fuel, fuel is solvent. It will dissolve the gum. http://www.cnn.com/2008/LIVING/wayoflife/04/09/aa.bad.gas/index.html Some others...since you dont believe us :-p http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Repair-837/98-Yamaha-FZR-600.htm http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080525044929AAXl1H9 it's a common problem with seasonal engines. The more low tech the engine, the less it is affected, but eventually even the lowest tech will have an issue. nipper PS Your not getting any coal this year

i made the same mistake with my first motorcycle. Had to rebuild 4 carbs, sidedrafts no less, yuck. nipper

http://autos.aol.com/article/general/v2/_a/does-gas-go-bad/20070703144909990001 that sums it up. nipper

WHat he said

Because AAMco wants to rip you off blind. They know that sooby trannies last forever with a flush, so why should they make sure they never break? They dont make any money that way. Also a flush will cure most sooby tranny ills. They cant make money that way. i am amazed that they stay in business, as every state has complaints against them of some sort.

Stop rubbing it in.

darn its the other brooklyn ... nipper

Just an FYI, oil change intervals wont rear thier ugly head till you get around 180,000 miles. Thats about where rod knock shows up from poor oil change habits, if its going to show up at all. personally your intervals are a bit long for me, but as i say, its your wallet. i hope you have been chainging your PCV va;ve regularly to help keep down the chance of sludge building up, and that there are no short trips in there, another source of engine sludge. nipper

Wouldnt snow camo cort of stick out there?

costs me here 99.00 to have the car tranny flushed. nipper

Ok we are now taking your calculator away from you. ATF fluid is one of the few that gets refreshed when fresh fluid is added, so just doing 4 drain and flushes is enough. nipper