nipper

On The AA lift, i had to use camber bolts on all 4 wheels, it solved the alignment issue. nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81497&highlight=transmission+codes also read that nipper

How many miles are on the car, then i can give you my recomedenation nipper

Torque bind. FLuid should be done every 3/36,000 miles to keep the car happy. nipper

The clunky shifting is old fluid. The TB you are exhibiting is most likely from a failed Duty C solenoid, which has to be fixed (and change the fluid at the same time). I am guessing at that since the age of the car seems right for it. The 16 flashes mean the last time the car was used, there was an electrical fault in the transmission. Its to get your attention. How does it feel when you back out of a parking space or making a tight turn? nipper

When was the last time the tranny oil got changed. Blu had TB but the fluid had over 40 K on it. I changed the fluid and it went away. nipper

I wouldnt. Too many incidents of drive line vibration from cheap drive axles. nipper

If your strapped for cash and doing it yourself, replace the boot. Take the cv joint apart, clean it, and use a sooby boot (they are thicker then aftermarket). If you can afford it, get an MWE axle. The first option is only going to cost you time and the boot. The true factor is how long do you think the boot was like that? nipper

MWE or Subaru or the prefered sources for axles. nipper

I have one in baldwin NY right by the LIRR railroad station if your interested. Blu is there now as we speak getting his annual checkup and new sneakers. nipper

Neutral Saftey Switch is out of wack (in subaru speak the inhibitor switch). Next time it happens put the car in neutral, i am sure it will start. This is something simple. I dont know if its a bad swithc or it can be adjusted. The request the dealership made is reasonable. nipper

Well aint that slick as s***

I got my AA kit late, but it was very beefy. The customer support is baically calling the person who made the kit. They thought i had a manual, so they didnt send two braces. When i called them, they instantly sent me the extra braces. The kid who makes the kits is really cool to talk to , as he has a lifted sooby himself. i think you all are beating up on AA unfairly. We are talking about something where less then 10 kits are made a year, because less then ten people ask for them. If you think you can run a business on 10 orders a year go right ahead. They do have a primary business that pays the bills and saleries. i will get off my m-16 tripod now. nipper

Hahahahahahaha

www.cars101.com may help nipper

I just did a 3x drain and fill in the auto tranny. I only bought 11 qts. So i imagine i am still qt shy. Yes i could use the dipstick to measure it, but its busticated. My method of refilling the empty qt containers lets just say was less then perfect. may the person who designed that dipstick be forced to work on designing the next chevy vega for eternity. nipper

penny wise and dollar foolish. Some things are just easier to let a shop fix. AC is about the one where it is always cheaper in the long run nipper

What is the "right amount" Also what is the ambiant air temperiture? Always give us the exact data points when we are trying to help diagnose an issue. What you may think is the "right amount" may be an important clue to the problem. Also did you read the pressures after 10 minutes of the AC running for it to normalize? We need both the high pressure and low pressure numbers. nipper

Low pressure can cause a short engagement. No pressure can cause no engagement. Overly high pressure can cause no engagement. The days of AC being simple are long gone. You can pull your hair out for a few days and maybe never get it right, or just have a shop do it and be done with it. If there is no pressure, the clutch will not engage. Also AC can seriously hurt you and the enviorment if you dont know what your doing. What your looking for is akin to your car not starting because its out of gas, so therefor you must need a new engine. Either way 1st step on any ac issue is to check the pressures. Its rare for there to be an electrical issue on the AC systems of these cars. KISS Keep it simple nipper

Youll burn out the solenoid and have to spend far more in repair bills then you would ever make up in gasoline savings, if any. Unless your ripping the rear drive system out of the car, nothing will change. You have done the best thing you possibly can already. nipper

To a shop that can put gauges on your system to see if there is nay pressure. Its sounds like you have a simple leak someplace. Some here will say just put a can of stop leak in it, but unless you know what your doing, take it to a shop and have it fixed properly. nipper

Are any of your flashers on at the same time? The flasher on these cars are solid state, with all the micro mystery black boxes and everything. Its possible that the flasher itself is bad. Thats where i would start. nipper

On my 1987 i had the driveshaft rebuilt. They Used U joints from a ford ranger that were servicable and could be lubricated. Dont go with a one peice driveshaft. You could possibly shake the car apart. nipper

i posted lots of information on this kit (all good). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79293&highlight=Allied+nipper nipper

If you are still loosing it after checking the above, its possible you are burning it. Your Master Cylinder is old enou to be leaking. You have a giant vacume canister on one side of the master cylinder connected to the engine. If its leaking, the brake fluid can get sucked into the engine. Check the inside of the booster hose, does it smell like brake fluid? nipper