nipper

Well you have a "high" and a "low" High output means its seeing voltage/current/signal when it is not expecting too, OR the switch/sensor is out of range (its expecing to see 1.2 volts and its seeing 3 volts). Low is the opposite. Now if it was a resistor based sensor where it is looking for a resistance (which switches are not usually) like a temp sensor, then i would agree. i cant really see them using a resistance based logic to a switch, but i guess its possible. Either way i would replace the switch and the problem should go away.

High input = short Replace the switch nipper

Usually black chunks are some sort of foam seal falling apart on one of the doors. Yes air comes in on all subarus (and almost all cars) under the hood at the base of the windshielf. They take advantage of the ram affect of air flow. Older cars used to catch it at the same place, but it wasnt under the good. They had a grill, and if you were lucky, a mesh screen for leaves.

The next step is to take it to a professional, because you need to throw a set of gauges on it to see what the pressures are. Sure you can just throw money at it and start adding refridgerant, but it wont solve the issue of where the refridgerant went to begin with. I dont remeber if the cooling fans will come on if the system is low on pressure. nipper

There is this great litle peice of technology that will allow you to find out all this great info.... The phone. Give 1st subaru a call and they will set you up. They are great over there for that. good luck. nipper

Not in the USA, it didnt come into existance untill 200X model year here. nipper

Hi and welcome. I would look at the rear of the fuse block and see if your problem is corrosion or a broken wire. nipper

its easy to change, going to be tougher to source a gauge cluster. nipper

correct. 1997 does not have one. nipper

Or you can just spend the 30.00 bucks in new hardware and be done with it. What your doing now will eventually stop working also. Salt spray gets trapped under the handle and it rusts out. nipper

Much better to just upgrade the brake comonenets and drive defensivly. Even if it was possible to upgrade, not guarentte that it would improve braking. nipper

Subarus run well over 200 300K miles without flushes. They are mostly damaging to the engine. The do what they say, but can weaken seals by removing "dirt" (the stuff that is helping to hold the seals together). They can remove some stuff that is actually helping to fill gaps etc etc. Any chemical flush in anything on a car can cause much more harm then good. Regular fluid changes will make the need for a flush unecassary. I have no problem with flushing brake lines, transmissions and cooling systems with fresh fluid, as that is what the systems were designed for. If you want to do a "flush" of something like the critical lubrication system, use seafoam, which has been proven to be safe for soobys (well only one person blew one up, he left the seafoam in). Also if im reading this correctly, your doubling the cost of your oil change. Also they are saying to use this between thier name brand oil. Now if you read it carefully (i am on pain killers so a bit fuzzy today) they just knocked thier own oil. Keep away, change your oil at more frequent intervals then sooby recomends, and you will never have a need for it. nipper PS - have you changed your pcv valve? That prbbly has a larger effect on having your oil get dirty sooner then "longer service intervals". Now if this was a sludge engine (toyo or chrsyler) and depneding upon your mileage i may have a differnt opinion.

Im voting for an air bubble. This is what you need to do. Get a gallon of premix coolant. With the car off remove the radiator cap, and open the bleed valve on the other end of the radiator. Start the car. You shold see a splurge of coolant come out of the radiator when the Tstat opens. Start SLOWLY topping off the coolant. shut the car off, let it cool down, top off the coolant. Replace the cap. If you are comfortable with draining the coolant, i would prefer you drain the coolant from the raidator, close the drain. Start the car with the cap off and slowly add coolantwhile the car is running, follow my instructions above. They just dumped coolant in the car, and did not take thier time. If you take it back to the dealer, YOU drive the car and show them the gauge is peaking. Record your mileage. i am betting they are just letting the car idle in the lot, and not really taking it for a good test drive. good luck nipper

Use new retaining clips for the throw out bearing. nipper

Or a good old fashioned tune-up. Its probably just coincidence. nipper

PS, another possability (a longshot but it happens) is that a tooth is missing off the ring that generates a pulse for the sensor.

i consider that part of the sensor, i should have clairified. nipper

Use an analog meter set on the lowest setting. When the metal tab passes by the sensor, it generates a small voltage spike. You can test this by hand cranking the engine. Also check for any opnes or shorts with an ohm meter. Usually if the car says the sensor is bad, its bad. Not much gray area here. Get one used from someone here, thats what i did. nipper

There are many posts on this "topic" use the search. Its also over here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=137877#post137877 Its much eaiser to change your driving habits then to use some balck magic. nipper

The gauge itself. nipper

Sending unit. Disconnect the wire and see if it goes to zero. nipper

Is there any clicking noises on hard turns at slow speed? At that mileage, the Cv's had had a very long life. nipper

also don't trap yourself in a corner. If the clamp lets loose, your going to have jump back really fast to get out of the way. Yes we arent kidding. I think your best choice is what McDave said. Be careful. nipper

Are you sure the rear main seal is leaking? Usually they never leak, and they can be a bit of a bear to get right. That plate is called a seperator plate. It gives you access to the inside of the engine. They are usually plastic, but someone has already changed this one. I'm a little confused, are you converting a car to a manual ? nipper

Check your exhaust system and the hangers. It may be as simple as a heat shield. Always tell us how many miles are on the car whenever you list a problem (yes thats a hint). You may have a worn CV joint that is starting to seize. nipper