nipper

I think the word your loking for is "personality" nipper

Or the silly idea of a new belt nipper

I do beleive this has a cable driving the spedo. You need a new cable. Its probably dry and has some damage done to it internally. nipper

Check the PS pump, AC compressor, accessory belt tensioner or the belt itself. This noise usually comes from one of these. nipper

i cant do march 1st, nephew is becoming an eagle scout that day. What do i get him for a gift? nipper

Evereyeon seems to forget that there is one more valvein the suystem, its not 100% the duty c solenoid. The pre 1997 1/2 have a poor seal seats which subaru freely admits. In computerized trannies, espescially subaru, its ben proven over and over flushing does not kill them. Thats back in the bad old days with older materials, and many more moving parts. Thats not an issue anymore. and i love Click n clack, its some of the other know it alls who sound like hour long commercials i can do without. nipper

OK so that rules out electrical issues. Sounds like the clutch pack has a problem. If a change in fluid doesnt clear it up, try as a last ditch effort lucas LSD treatment (I think thats it). nipper

heheehe don't worry about it, i'm just as bad nipper

awwwwwww shucks (well someone had to say it) nipper

There is also a cheap attempt at fixing it. Get a new radiator cap. Subaru caps seem to get tired after 4-5 years for some reason. Sometimes this is simple enough to solve the problem. Skip calling me Sir makes me nervous ....... nipper PS, has the cooling system ever been serviced? at 80K its overdue.

SHucks may do it for free too, ask them. Autozone is the one that advertises it, thats why we recomend them. Also after checking the code, have them clear it for you, and see if it comes back. Its probably something simple like a knock or O2 sensor. nipper

This is why i switched to direct deposit. My cars could smell when i got paid and would want some of that money. nipper

There is a very good reason for it to come on.... its not happy. You dont hug it enough... odds are one of the wheel sensors are bad. They need to be perfectly cylindrical in shape. Any erosion around the edges and they will fail. Search Antilock Brakes and someplace in here is the procdure for getting the codes, or you can just inspect the sensors. nipper

CEL sorry it was a typo ... and to you too skip nipper

Its in one of the dual filament bulbs. The bulb may even look normal when you opertae it, thats why the bulbs have to be removed till the problem goes away. If you look at the bulb under a bright light you may even see the filament leaning against the other one. nipper

Are you sure its the AEL and not the trannt temp light? Air bubbles dont just appear in a cooling system that has not been opened before. Get the codes read first, and keep an eye opn the temp gauge. Check the fluid level in the radiator and overflow tank. nipper

Check all your lightbulbs. You may have to remove the break and turn signals bulbs one at a time till the problem goes away. You have a bad bulb, the filament is shorting out in the bulb causing a back feed. nipper

Rod knock sounds nothing like piston slap. It's a deeper sond that never goes away, and may get worse as the engine oil thins out. It will change when the spark plug is disconnected from the coil for that cylinder. nipper

My gut feeling is that they got a bad batch of seals from a supplier. Sometimes things don't show up years later, as you can't test for everything. nipper

1997 1/2. Thats why when mine went i let the dealer do it, as they replaced all the parts with the re-engineered parts to correct the leaking seals. nipper

Another that needs to be put into the new gen forum. There are a few posts on this with the 1999's. What happens when you put the car into reverse, then drive? (or Low) This is an annoying problem, but short of a rebuild not much you can do about it. you can try chainging the fluid, and i know someone had some sucess with a tranny additive. You need to wait till the car goes into gear before taking off. That thump your doing is essentially a neutral drop and hammers away at the tranny. The issue is an internal seal being weak in the tranny someplace if i remeber correctly.

Try mounting the alarm horn inside the car someplace. Tose suckers are loud, and no one will want to stick thier head inside a car like that. Have much of a meth problem out by you? nipper

Well this is in the wrong forum to begin with, a 1997 is new gen. You need to repalce the driveshaft. DO NOT BUY A CHEAP SHAFT. Someone will suggest where to get it, besides the dealer. A cheap one can cause driveline vibrations at idle. Replace the entire shaft, its less work then just replacing the CV joint. Its an easy job to do, just rember to use a new springclip and wheel nut (I think). Someone will post pics here i am sure on how to do it. nipper

A- doubt it unless they used the wrong type fluid. B- no C- Check the tires and make sure they match, and that they are all properly inflated. Put the FWD fuse in the holder and see if it d=goes away. Its usually an 800.00 fix D- What exaclty did the shop do to the car? Never ever take a car to a transmission shop for any work short of a slipping transmission. Torquebind can make the car handle poorly in bad weather, to the point of being dangerous in the right conditions. The car can get worse mechanically, and put a lot of stress on the differentials, cv joints and u joints. How many miles are on the car? nipper

And who told you that there are more porblems? This is done all the time, and there are threads here telling you how to do it. Saftey inspection has nothing to do with the condition of the mechanicals of the drivetrain. They only inspect to the letter of the law. Saftey inspection doesnt care if the car runs, just that the brakes work, lights work, and the wheels don't fall off. If you can do the engine swap look at doing it. You will come out ahead. nipper