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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. On a modern engine, it really takes a hell of a lot to ruin a cat. Engins run so lean, its hard to run them so rich as to ruin it. The O2 sensor is before the cat, and takes more of a beating. Since you are at the age to replace O2 sensors, replace the one. Worst thing that would happen is that you still need to replace the cat (and replace the O2 sensor because of age). Best (and most likely thing) that will happen is that we saved you 700.00 Either way a win win. nipper
  2. That I am not sure of. I am not that familiar with the 6. I cant tell by 1st suabru's parts either, nor is your exhaust system on the walker web site either. (Just so this can be searched Oxygen Sensor ) nipper PS someone answered it
  3. Yup your due for an O2 sensor, You possibly arent doing damage aside form your gas mileage. Also if you live in an emissions stae you wont pass emissions. you have the code read, so we know what it is. O2 sensors wear out with time, and the mileage matches it. There are other things that can cause it, but your car is a bit young to have a leakey exhaust system. Yes you can test it with a meter to see whats going on, i'm sure someone will say how, but personally, i would just clear the codes, and wait till it comes on fully, then replace it. (thats what i usually do) nipper
  4. How many miles on it? Usually it means the O2 sensor is tired and needs to be replaced (the front one). nipper
  5. Also as cables stretch to the point of failure, they wont fully release the clutch. The seperator plate on't get on the disc, but the main seal or tranny seal may. nipper
  6. yes. One of theings i was going to suggest a bad cable, as the cause, but wasnt sure. this is a PSA people, replace the clutch, spend the extra money and replace your clutch cable too. nipper
  7. I thought of that too. lets do something simple. Have someone run through the gears while the car is on ramps. Make sure everything moves the way its supposed too. Check the tranny mount. nipper
  8. Thing break But....... The grabbing tells me something was up. When a clutch gets hot it will grab. If a clutch over heats it will start grabbing, then it will fail, sometimes spectacularly. What will cause it to over heat? The clutch not fully disengaging when depressed. This can be a weak hydraulic clutch, a broken clutch fork (since subarus pull the fork insteads of pulling it) lubricant on the disc (a longshot). nipper
  9. Ok im discounting two gears at once. If you came to a full stop, the engine would have stalled and the drivtrain locked up. If it was a rolling stop, its impossible to get the car into two gears at once unless you have a 40 inch bicept while moving, and are deaf (going to make very nasty noises). I'm going with exploded clutch disc. But no matter the cause, to find it you have to get to the clutch anyway. nipper
  10. deminerilized water. Its the water that you put in an iron, a humidifier, or any aluminum engine. It keeps some nasty electro-chemical processes from happening in aluminum engnies that can cause corrosion and clogging of cooling system parts. It's available in supermarkets. 50/50 premix already has this. nipper
  11. Thats a possability, but that usually happens from the car is parked. Also that would lock up the drivetrain, it doesnt explain why the car can still move, and the engine still start and run in gear. I thought about that. As I understand the problem 1- Car will not move itself in gear with the engine running. 2- Car will start in gear and not move (with or without the clutch) 3- Clutch engaged the car acts like it is in neutral. 4- Car can not be parked in gear. The car should have just stalled if 2 gears engaged at once with the clutch out. Or am i wrong? I'm begining to think the bang was the clutch disc self destructing. Of course it's not in my driveway so hard to tell. nipper
  12. Nothing on the net indicating any problems. Well there arent many things to make this problem without tearung it apart. If you broke a clutch fork ro TO bearing,the car would start and move in gear. If you broke an axle, the car would drive the rear wheels. The key here is that the clutch was grabby. That would go back to a disc problem or a pressure plate. If the disc was to go bad you would be down to the metal fingers of the clutch plate http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86592 Pressure plates are now giant belville springs, which makes them almost impossible to break. Sometimes thing break. Almost anything else i can think of would give a warning sign (the clutch grabbing .... maybe over heating then self destruction?) Tranny should give lots and lots of warnings before it goes poof, unless it ran out of grease? Does it feel like the clutch pedal is attached to anything? Is ther reistance at the clutch fork? nipper
  13. Myabe the tranny input shaft went poof? I was hoping the car would move staring off in gear. Another possability is the clutch disc exploded. What brand clutch? nipper
  14. Have you checked your drive axles to see if one is broken? The default postion for the clutch is engaged, not disnegaed. Maybe you broke your pressure plate, but thats really really really hard to do on a stock engine. Cant you park the car in gear and not have it roll? have you tried starting the car in gear? How many miles? When you replaced the clutch, what did you replace? nipper
  15. Ok thats more clear, as i am really confused on this. nipper
  16. Question is was it a factory T stat, thats very important. Aftermarket ones are undersized and don't have enough flow. Also change the radiator cap.
  17. Thst the only fluid that is in that boot, PS fluid. Do yourslef a favor, go to a do it yourself car wash and wash the entire underside of the car. This will help and let you know where the leaks are. And if you are trying to find a leak, well yes you need to check levels and keep them full. nipper
  18. i'm just giving up on it. i have sent pm's with my address in the past, and right now am totally confused as to who to send it to again. i paid for mine already, so i dont see how the first 25 should get it only. i'm just giving up. nipper
  19. Check your power steering level. Let us know if its low, you may be leaking fluid, and thats a used rack. nipper
  20. Actually you start adding up wiring it quickly adds up. It also reduces cost on the dashbaord itself. Add that up over a few 100,000 units it adds up quickly. nipper PS its probably more like 1 lb, and at a few connnectors, and 8 bulbs, a plastic lense.
  21. Well if you notice, subarus dont go up in price that much year from year either. Thats because they trim costs and cut back on unecassary things. Also there is a weight reduction issue. nipper
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