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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Timing chains give lost and lots of hints that they are going bad. With all the sesnors on these things, I would be surprised if it didnt throw a code of some kind. Usually chains jump a tooth. They have to be seriously worn (read noisey) to break. My guess would be 180 - 220,000 miles. nipper
  2. i doubt it. Those temperitures get pretty high, and the high velocity hot exhaust gasses and back pressure will blow out even facotry ones if things arent tight. Why not just buy them? nipper
  3. Race fuel is mostly alchohol around here at 8.00 a gallon. Maybe we fill up in NJ, spend a small fortune in tolls? nipper
  4. sure ..... if you live in a state that has ethanol in its fuel, just try to find a pump without it. I don't by that excuse. nipper
  5. DOUBLE STUFFED at NABISCO though i do have freinds that send me illegal oreos from canada, as they are made with the ever evil trans fats (and taste much better). nipper
  6. It seems there are some other PVEZ engines from other mfg that are a little odd on cold startup. This may be a charecteristic of whats required to make it PVEZ, not sure yet. Mot enough of them have been sold yet to find out. nipper
  7. Lifetime warrenties are a safe bet on the autopart sellers part. Most parts are not replaced more then once in a cars life time (water pump, alt, master cylinder, etc). the other gamble is that the owner of the car wont have the reciept anymore. So they get to charge more for the lifetime warrenty part, which usually is not rebuilt to any different standard then the non lifetime part (keeping in mind that there is no defanition of what rebuilt part is). you screwed up their business model. how dare you nipper
  8. And im some cases the air coming out of the tailpipe is cleaner then whats going in. nipper
  9. If its a competative price, no harm. I mean you only change it every 3 years. nipper
  10. Any trnasmission from 1985 is a very differnt creature from a 1993. You have a computer controlled transmission with several davantages over anything pre 1990. -1 less moving parts then an older transmission -2 Better engine integration with the transmission operation -3 Faster shifts The older trannies would use accumulators and other forms fo hydraulic buffeing to smooth out shifts. They would not cut back engine power during upshifts, so there is alot of heat generated and wear. Computer controlled engines reduce engine torque momentarily to take the strain off the transmission while shifting. This is a huge wear saver. Also with a computer controleed they can engage two gears at once during an upshift as opposed to the older ones which could not (due to valve body limitations). This also saves alot of wear on the tranny. You can see over 200,000, possibly 300,000 miles on a subaru tranny as long as you regularly change the lubricant, and dont ignore any tranny warning lights. nipper
  11. Here is an idea. Fill the tank with gasoline. Since you have a guy that does work, he sould have an exhaust sniffer. This sniffs for hydrocarbons. Using the sniffer under the car, sniff around the tank, the filer neck, inside the areas under the access panels. When the meter spikes, thats where your problem is. nipper
  12. Fuel pump is the last thing to look at, and subary relays are fairly robust. You need air fuel and spark for ignition. Do you have the other two? Can you explain your thread title a little better, that would help. nipper
  13. Thats almost unheard of for both (diferentials) of them to go bad. That can happen by way of the car being abused, low lubricant, or really bad torque bind. This is something that subaru can't be blamed for, but the previous owner can. You spent 6000 canadian (which is 6000 us i think) for the car, its worth fixing. You can get parts for it used. Get another opinion, and ask them how they came to that conclusion. nipper
  14. :banana: :banana: oh mr i have a picture of everything (you know who you are), show him the pic of the valve cover parts he needs to get nipper
  15. Also a new ground from the tranny to the battery may help. Blu has always had a hard 1-2 shift under most cricumstances, and he's got 220,000 miles on him, so i consider it normal. A too soft shift is very bad. SUbarus have a little bit of an odd shift feeling to them, it takes a little getting used to. nipper
  16. YOU DO NOT NEED A CAT! i will beat that into you using a VW fan belt if i have too You are not listening to us at all. The dealer sounds like a bad place to deal with. If your not overheating or leaking, lest skip the headgasket for now and take things one step at a time. Go to a subaru supplier on line, and order the front O2 sensor and install it. Untill you do that, you can not tell anything else. A bad knock sensor can make the car run poorly You can replace both things yourself failry easily. now listen to us on this, we are trying to save you a ton of money nipper
  17. Er um, the axle is already wasted. Buy the time 400 miles of road grit and salt and god knows what else gets done with the ball and cage, there will be nothing worth rebuildung... (not to metion the direty that is already trapped in it). so DAMN THE TOPRPEDOS! FULL SPEED AHEAD! nipper
  18. Been there done it from Chicago to Pittsburgh. Baby the car and dont push the speed. Be prepared to have to replace the wheel bearing, hub as well as the driveshaft. In my case we woulcdnt tell what failed first, but we think it was the CV joint. It took the wheel bearing due to vibrations, then the hub followed. It was really bad by the time i got it to a shop, the only thing holding the wheel on was the axle nut. Personally I would say try to fix it where you are. that drive was not only physicaly uncomfortable, but left a huge knot in my stomach for 8 hours. nipper
  19. Thats the one I won't recomend it since i have never done it, but would rather have someone who has vouch for it nipper
  20. Wow slow down. If you take a car to shop with one complaint, and they find 4 others, its time to find a nother shop. Lets take this one at a time. Was the car overheating? Are there bubbles in the coolant. Oil Leaks - Wash the engine and drive the car for a week, then look. I bet the cam and main seals (and maybe the oil pump seal) is leaking. this is not unusual at this age. They should have been done with the timing belt. The rear main seal rarely goes bad, thats why its a safe assumption on the plate, but if the front seals are leaking bad enough, it can look like the rear is leaking. Cats - if you do not have a CEL, the cats are fine (lets assume). If you do have a CEL you start off by replacing the front O2 sensor. You can get a false bad cat code if the o2 sensors are bad. The front sensor needs to be OE. Hit the cats with your hand. If they dont rattle, they are probably ok. Trnasmissions rarely go bad on subarus, but 2000's do have a delay issue when shifting from r to d. I think someone said an additive fixes this (someone wiil chime in). Read the codes. I doubt the cats are bad. A lot of dealers and shops. come to this very wrong conclusion. Forget everything the dealer said, and start all over. Sounds more like the dealer just did not want to work on the car. I am assuming the car has been taken care of and not abused. nipper
  21. Yes. And subaru has the better AWD system. You can see that on youtube. nipper
  22. Do not leave the car with them. Drag a tech out (not the service writer) and have them listen to the car, and show it to them. Let them hear it. Service writers mostly don't know anything about cars (I was one, and was shocked that they didnt know a thing). Bravo for subaru telling you to get a second opinion. nipper
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