nipper

There is also that little detail that they are illegal in the USA http://www.dot.gov/affairs/nhtsa4304.htm NHTSA 43-04 Contact: Rae Tyson, Telephone: (202) 366-9550 Tuesday, October 19, 2004 NHTSA ILLEGAL LIGHTING CRACKDOWN CONTINUES Continuing its crackdown against manufacturers and suppliers of illegal lighting equipment, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) today announced its decision that high intensity discharge (HID) conversion kits produced by a Texas company do not comply with federal safety standards. The owner of ASTEX USA, a supplier of aftermarket HID kits, was ordered to conduct a recall campaign and provide a no-cost solution to the customer. The company is based in Dayton, TX. When installed in a motor vehicle, the HID kits “can be expected to produce excessive glare to oncoming motorists and others,” NHTSA said in its decision. To date, NHTSA has investigated 24 HID conversion kit suppliers; all investigations have resulted in recalls or termination of sales. “These illegal lights are a potential hazard to those who share the road,” said NHTSA Administrator Jeffrey Runge, MD. “And we will continue to pursue those offering them for sale and violating the law.” Companies that sell, import or manufacture non-compliant equipment could face substantial civil penalties, NHTSA said. To date, NHTSA has investigated 24 HID conversion kit suppliers; all investigations have resulted in recalls or termination of sales. RM Racing Astex USA Kmax International FET, Inc. J. Liu LLC Gourmet Garage JC Whitney Lighting Research SPW Industries, Inc. Pacific Micro-lite McCulloch Motors, Inc. Santeca Electronics JF Manufacturing Streetglow, Inc. Outback Products, Inc. Nu Performance GR Motorsports, Inc. Global Premier New Clor Importhookup.com DG International MTC Lighting Umnitza Liteglow American Products Company

Ah cool, they type like me nipper

I thikn he was sick on a lot of days.... nipper

I thought they all had it in that year, and the electric came with the AC models. Maybe all the 4WD ones had ac? nipper

I always went by the rule that once you start calling people names, you lost the argument. nipper

The whining noise may have been from the driveshaft, see how it is when you get it back. nipper

Sometimes googling "endwrench" and whatever it is your looking for works better then subarus web site. nipper

Search doest really work on endwrench, you have to thumb through the articles acording to system. And the tranny section disapears from time to time, so you have to google that one. nipper

Marshmellows anyone?

Because califonia wants to be special. Beofre OBDII it mad a difference. And now with more and more states adapting CA emission rules, pretty much all cars meet it. What IS differnt, is the amount of leeway in the emissions test. nipper

OE is sort of like elctronics. There are diffent specs that the consumner never sees. OE may eant o2' sensors the have a specific band, and take a specific time to heat up, to stay within federal specs. Aftermarket will take 100 O2 sensros from different mfgs to see how many interchange. Some of the specs may get watered dwon during this coomparison. Some may do functional testing, some wont. Also OE may tweak the the specs, and immediatly (since they use just in time inventory) the new spec will be available at the dealer. Aftermarket makes them in batches, so they may or may not be up to spec. We call this front door parts and back door parts. The parts that go out to the front door go to a demanding customer. The backdoor parts go to the aftermarket. There is a reason you pay premium at the dealer. Also bosch is not going to mfg 100 differnt O2 sensors when 10 or 20 will do. Also another thing to think about, if OE lasted over 100,000 miles, then the replacement OE will too. BTW Subaru isnt the only one that should use OE, I have seen on the other boards that toyota and honda should too, and they also are Bosch. nipper EDIT - (frogot this thought) this means that the tolerances wont be as tight for aftermarket as OE. Also QA testing is done only once when first designed on aftermarket to keep costs down.

Its standard on pretty much all cars, though i am sure there is some wierd italian car out there that has to be different :-p nipper

I dont remember, but i assume this has a PCV valve, that most likely has never been changed. Start there. Also make sure all the related hoses are not caked with junk. The cap, the gasket under the cap is tired. You can replace or make a gasket for it out of rubber or cork. and welcome. nipper

It can be as simple as a bad motor mount. It would be really early. Also another thing to look at are the exhaust hangers. Does it do it if you manually downshift the transmission? nipper

Well at some point the car will need a new part of some kind. Start with subaru, you may be nicely surprised on the price of just a clutch disc. I use 1st subaru. Google them. nipper

A clutch used is a clossal waste of money. Same amount of work either way (in fact almost twice as much since you have to take two cras apart), and odds are that a used clutch isnt going to last long. At the very least if money is tight, a new clutch disc and throw out bearing. uIn all honesty, it really should be a clutch disc, a throw out bearing, a pressure plate, a guide bearing (forgot the proepr name) and slight machining of the lfywheel to break the glaze. And I dont think it will fit. nipper

Thats a typical begining to electrical failure. As the component heats up, the solder joints or connections or wires that are weak expand, and presto malfunction. nipper

The crank sensor controls spark. The cam sensor controls controls fuel injection.

Its simple. Its takes more power and torue to make the car go in higher gears then in first. Give it time, it will slip in first too. nipper

I would worry about emissions only if it fails. Modern cat's are so good at cleaning up the exhaust, cars usually exceed the standards for that cars year of mfg. nipper

Both heads have to go the machine shop, otherwise you will have an unbalanced engine, especially if the machine shop resurfaces the head. nipper

At 215,000,i am afraid to suggest alot of work. It sucks that i cant see things myself. Keep in mind i am way over here, and your way over there. It sounds like you need a valve job. The problem with doing a valve job on a old engine, is that the increased compression can cause blow by. Now that said, you do have strong compression numbers. One cylinder with poor compression is a valve problem. One cylinder with lower numbers, or all cylinders with lower numbers is ring wear (over 100 psi). If it was me, I would chance the valve job (or at the very least have a machine shop look at the heads), and not be too pissed off if it upsets the rings. Here is another thought, can you open and close the valves manually? If so get some Dykem blue (i think thats the name) and put it on the valve seat. Cycle the valce a few times and see if there is even contact while the dykem is wet. Next do it the other cylinder, and see if the pattern is the same. This may or may not work. Why was the original valve replaced? nipper Choice B is a used engine.

ok there are a few issues here. Replace the thermostat and get a new radiator cap. I suspect you have no t-stat in tha car (which is a bad sign). Next slowly fill the radiator with the car running. Allow for the thermostate to open (there will be a surge of fluid). Slowly keep filling the radiator. Put the cap on the radiator, if you have an overflow make sure is is half full. Drive around the block, allow car to cool. repeat filling procedure if needed. If you still have "too much fluid" you may have to investigate a Head gasket leak. nipper

Stainless always good. Just practice on something cheaper first nipper

From what i can see they dropped the fee. You used to have to pay a fee to import a car into california from another state. nipper