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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Flush the brake fluid out for a start. Sounds like the fluid is old. nipper
  2. It doesnt take much to freeze a fuel line. The extreemly low fuel thing can be a problem in winter. I dont want you buying a fuel pump just because, without testing it yet. I am not convinced its a frozen fuel line since it was in a heated garage. The fuel is moving once the car is running, circulating, and a moving fluid doesnt freeze. I would be suspicous of the fuel filter though. What is your skill level? nipper
  3. A timing belt will give no warning, and they dont like being over extenteded in mileage all that much. Fuel pump is rare on these things, as well as fuel pump relays. You can always check for power back at the fuel pump, its easy enough to do. Its just a panel behind the back seat to remove, I forget which side now has the pump. Check for spark first Just to make sure you have continuos spark, and not just at first crank. Since fuel issues usually manifest themselves as a drivability issue, for now lets rule out the fuel system. Pull the covers and check the timing belt. Let the car get cold (outside) and see if it will start, it may be a dead spot in the engine temp sensor. When the car does run, do you have a CEL? nipper
  4. PS An even better explination of valve timing nipper EDIT, darn link didnt post now i cant find it again
  5. Oil burning on deccleration is valve stems or valve stem seals, on acceleration is rings (and he has ring wear by the compression numbers, as you dont usually notice it on acceleration as your, well accelerating). In theory (entertaining that fuel injector off theory) the cylinders are still hot. You have uncontroled burning of oil, which is bad. Also that liquid vapor oil which did not burn goes to the cat, and the cat really does not like that at all. Valve trains wear equally, as opposed to a burned valve which is a differnt situation. if one stem leaks, usually they all leak. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm there is also a point where the valves overlap, meaning both valves are open. Under your theory, oils can be drawn inot the conmbustion chamber at this time. nipper
  6. 100 times no think about it. try shutting your car off while moving and see what happens. You loose power steering, power brakes, and air conditioning. In a manual the mass of the car keeps the engine spinning, but its not producing power, and you have a big chance of a backfire through the catalyst (bad) when the fule injectors would come back on. In an automatic the engine just stops. this is an old wives tail. nipper
  7. you can rent them. The ones that you can rent usually read in real time. Santa is pre OBDI he still uses points (as in pointing to go that way) nipper
  8. I have seen subaru engines with over 200,000 miles still hitting 180 psi or better. Normally the rings don't wear. There isnt much technique to doing a wet test. Valve stem seals are just basically a rubber-type cup. The Rings, well almost everything lasts longer then the valve stem seals. Some engines are worse then others with valve stem seal life. Ring life os affected by heat, oil changes, fuel (detonation) and load (towing). nipper
  9. Go to an autozone or some such store and have the codes read for free nipper
  10. It's under the hood i think, or at the base of the windsheild, i forget. Turn on the blower full speed and listen, youll hear it. nipper
  11. Have you attempted to spray lysol into the air intake for the HVAC system. Mold likes cool and damp as opposed to humid and hot nipper
  12. It used to be cast was better then stamped, since stamped in theory can seperate from the shaft. Cast on the otherhand, it the fluid isnt changed as it should be, the impeller can erode with time (lots and lots and lots and lots of time). Samped can have this happen too, depending upon what the impeller is made from. Modern engines, this rarely happens, as the waterpump bearing or seal usually goes first. Personally I prefer cast if i have a choice. nipper
  13. Well the antenna wire will look like no other wire plugged into the back of the radio. If its like my 97, they made the lead with no slack in it, so it may be a bit of a tight fit as far cable length. Other then that it will be obvious. nipper
  14. A wet sparkplug would indicate that cylinder is not firing, this may be a bad injector, low compression etc. Good news is that i am not finding any real terrible things about this engine on the net. Have you tried this? http://car.justanswer.com/JA/ASP_ASK/FID_11/K_1479/P_1/TR/saturn-questions.htm nipper
  15. i had the weather band radio, and i am thinking of looking for a diff cover. I replaced the radio and instead my CB has weatherband (which has come in handy). I cant seem to find the wood grained bezel anywhere else. BTW the woodgrain is molded in, not a sticker
  16. Its not a sensor issue. This is an ABS issue, in all cars. You dont hit this too often, but you do, you need to know how to deal with it. The same way everyone should know how to deal with a loss of brake boost, a loss of power steering, how to handle a blow out, and what to do when the idiot lights come on or the gauges peg. You can not rely 100% on technology. If you could, a car wouldnt need an operator. Traction control alos has its failings, as we will see so does stability control. Both will give people a false sense of confort, and drive at the threshold of physics, where there is no chance of recovery. nipper
  17. Ah my last two soobies had them, thats why i never noticed the leaks in either of them till something else went wrong. nipper
  18. You do know that by pumping ABS you can actually make your stopping distance longer? nipper
  19. All engines for the most part are now interfernce. If you want more horsepower, more torque, that means higher compression and more valves. To get more then two valves in the top of a engine and more HP, you have no choice but to have an interfernce engine. nipper
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