nipper

I dont know if this will help but i found it interesting http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/FtEmissionServiceS01.pdf nipper

It sounds like its your cat. you have all the symptons. The second o2 sensor is just a check against the first, it has no effect on emissions (interestingly my car just threw a code for the downstream o2 sensor). The stumble, the timing of it all fits. nipper

Check the knock sensor. Also another possible suspect is the o2 sensor nipper

Blu, my OBW, had a rod knock that came and went. It took me by surprise on a cross country trip. About 3000 miles later it threw the rod. The rod knock was hard to hear at times, but in retrospect it was there. Oddly the very last fill up i thought the car was running exceptionally well, then 20 miles later all sorts of excitement. Best way to see if its a rod knock, pull the plug wire for that cylinder and see if it changes pitch. nipper

*gasp* 700.00?????? thats how much that entire job should cost if the dealer did it. Get the timing belt and the tensioner from subaru. Everything else can be aftermarket. Waterpump you can get as an aftermarket. Also try https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html Jamie has good prices. nipper

Since its wheel speed we can rule out the transmission gears, clutch, flywheel etc etc. Since its a 1 to 1 rotational noise We can also rule out the diff. That leaves us the wheel bearings, brakes, axles (hub caps if you have them). Get a second opinion, and take the tech for a drive with you and show him the noise. nipper

can you give us a feel for the rythem of the clicking. Once every wheel revolution or more? nipper

You do have all the symptons of a failed cat. You should replace the o2 sensor first, as you should get a new one with a new cat anyway. The smell isnt so much a red flag, but the rattling when you whack it with your hand is. How many miles are on this car? nipper

Ok so i will get the pioneer amp and skip the subwoofer for now. Then next i would look to upgrade the door speakers if i fin them lacking. I am not looking to boost to alot of power, but i have a feeling that the 40 watts per channel out of the amp is more honest then the 20 watts out of the head unit I know the wattage is a numbers game, but i was taught (and thats how i buy my home units) is that if they are saying there is alot of power, the unit should weigh a ton. My old 55 watt pioneer head weighs the same as the 20 watt head unit (both per channel). nipper

It seems that foresters have weak rear wheel bearings and spedo head issues. No matter what you choose, take the car and drive it in a paved lot in tight circles. The car should be able to idle smoothly (or with just a little gas). If it can't do that walk away. Also make sure the tires all match and are properly inflated. If its an automatic make sure there is no fuse in the FWD holder under the hood (by the wiper motor).nipper

how about a persian? someone had to say it. http://www.catalyticconverter.net/ www.jcwhitney.com thats where i get mine when i have to. nipper

There is a scary stop leak for HG issues. Stop leak will not clog up a good radiator. That radiator was on its way out already. Stop leak neds air along with heat and pressure to activate. nipper

at least in 2007 it is http://www.subaru.com/owners/warranty/index.jsp so therefor it may be worth asking about. I also found refernces to other car mfg's offering the same thing in 1996. Doesnt hurt to ask. nipper

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/driveshaft.ivnu i think thats who i used. nipper

This was a while ago. The car ran for another 3 years then died of cancer. It was the perfect fix. Look up in the yellow pages under "driveshaft" as a place to start. Do a google search. I had one out east i can try to find again. nipper

I've had to replace the universals in my 87Gl. What i did was go to a shop that made custom drive shafts. They replaced the universals for 150.00. The carrier bearing itslef may be a lot tougher to find, but a good drive shaft shop can work miracles. They replaced the universal with one that was popular and servicable. nipper

i think on your car it's at the right front side of the car, near the radiator. Look around for a square thing with brake lines in it. nipper

a Junk yard from a non totaled car. Another place to check is with subaru. I think the belts themselves have a lifetime warrenty on them (i am not sure). nipper

Reseal meaning cam seals, main engine seal, reseal the oil pump. If the engine is out you also do the rear main and the replace the seperator plate (if its plastic). Also if the engine is out you do the valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals (just because). Dead ABS - first check the fuse. Make sure the relays are there on the abs unit and working. After that you need to see if power is getting to the ABS unit. the ABS is usually trouble free. Can be the fuse was pulled due to a sticking relay. Get the haynes manual or somenone will explain the adjustment. To see the condition of the clutch. Start off from a dead stop in 3rd or 4th gear. No matter what you do the car should stall buck or kick. If you can move it the clutch is starting to go. Techron, sometimes it takes more then one tank of gas or one bottle to fix it. nipper

255 can not be right, that is a major problem. The compression is too high, is that a typo? If the compression test was done with all the plugs out, you need to do a wet test next to see if the numbers change. Then we can tell you what the numbers mean for sure. nipper

When was the last time hte car had a clutch done, or had the lubricants changed. nipper

there is a good dirty joke in there someplace nipper

Thats because you changed the OCV and not the PCV :-p (there is no OCV valave for the less knowledgable... i just couldnt resist) nipper

If its an automatic, you wont have AWD without both VSS operating. nipper

1 - Either broken belts in the tires or more likley warped rotors, Blu does the same thing, especially over 70 mph (makes life interesting at 100 plus). 2- Subarus leak when the seals get old, can most likely use a general reseal. What socket are you talking about? 3- Complicated, but start by looking under the hood for any missing or broken vacume lines (follow the cable from the throttle body to the vacum canister thingy). Check the clutch switch. Check the brake switch. 4- Not sure what you are saying. 5- May need a clutch, check the cable adjustment. 6- Typical, use the chevon cleaner, you can get it at any autoparts store. This usually makes it better if not fixes it. The low fule light is always reliable. 7- Climate control lights, do a search (i think there is a sticky on it). Its a radio shack bulb, and akin to replacing miniture xmass lights. nipper