nipper

We need to get a pic of this and make it a sticky. This is something all subaru owners with automatics need to know what it is, and when to use it. You need to know it for when you put the spare on the car. It disables thw AWD. I am going to assume you dont have an owners manual. Near the wiper motor under the hood is a fuse holder. It should be empty. You put a fuse in it when you put on the spare or have diagnose something like this. nipper

You havent lived untill you have gotten zapped by 600vdc and as much amperage as God and con ed wnats to give you. Lets just say exciting is a word, along with a string of words that use asterics.... i was lucky, the gauge of the wire saved me. nipper

i assumed you were using an AC motor. DC motors are for golf carts. http://www.electroauto.com/sitemap.shtml Thats who we used when we made fuel cell cars. nipper

Thats what i thought. First make sure all your tires are equally inflated. If you have one thats low, or a tire that doesnt match the others you will get TB. Next put the fuse in the FWD holder under the hood and see if it goes away. If it does we have fighting chance to solve this without big bucks. If it goes away, leave it in untill you can get the tranny fluid flushed/chainged. nipper

no. They als have D/R manual transmissions. We dont get to have any fun. nipper

From working on eletric cars, the one place where you are going to want to spen the bucks is the controller. A good solid state controller will allow for dynamic breaking. Will you be bolting the motor to the subaru tranny? A conversion is doable. You will also loose the gas tank, the hvac system. Do think about battery placement to keep the car balanced. nipper

Well it sounds more like torque bind then a power steering issue. Subaru PS is trouble free. And jerking as you describe is where TB will show up. Will the car ilde smoothly through tight turns? Which tranny do you have. nipper

Well the shipping costs may kill you, thats in austrailia http://autoweb.drive.com.au/cms/usedcars/make_Subaru/model_FORESTER/index.html nipper

I would be more then willing to take it off your hands for you If the body is in goof shape, everything works, and you like the car, fix it and enjoy it. You rarely make any money if you fix and sell when you have a cracked block. nipper

i see where i got confused, its the first post. In order to just rule out a bad coil, i dont see why the chaining of the coil packs wouldnt work. If the car starts, and runs you may get lucky and it be ok to run, otherwise you know its the coil pack and get a propper 2.5 pack. Its hard to tell from the manual which on is a 2.2 or a 2.5, so it may not matter. nipper

oh ok my error for some reason i thought it was a 2.2 no it wont. Its jsut there has been some discussion here that we cant see subaru using one design requirement for one belt, and another for the 2.5. Maybe at one time they did, but now we arent sure. nipper

Ok so history unknown. You have a rainsuit for the bike? Just in case you need a timing belt, then your going to have to doe seals etc etc.... the 2.2 needs a timing belt every 60,000 so either it should have been done at 240, or it is a newer 106,000 mile belt (which i doubt). nipper

and THATS what it takes to get a subaru stuck with a set of blizzaks (rimshot) nipper

Looking at a timing belt you cant tell if its good or not (well you can tell not). When was the last time it was replaced. ALso was the car leaking oil onto the belt? nipper

What condition are the wheel bearings in? nipper

Second step, buy a subaru turbo. Its one thing to turbo charge a car that was never turboed, its another to put a turbo on a NA engine, when the factory made a turbo version of the same car. Buy a proper turbo, and give us another 1000.00 dollars on top of it, and it will be just like converting a NA subaru to turbo. nipper

Broke = jumped . Double check that the timing is correct. Did you reseal the engine when you did the HG. Did you use a new belt? nipper

That helps to a point. Thanks. At least now i know which ones illumunate the gauges. Here is my problem. I ahve the JDM oil temp/oil press/volt gague set. They do plug in, but the oil ones dont work. I have the factory harness and sesnors There is a mystery black box behind the gauges, which i have no idea what its purpose in life is. It has a chip in it and some sort of power transistor thingy (I can take pics of this if it helps). It is a factory peice, maybe an inch long. Also on the harness is a wire with a blue connector cover (blade terminal male). It is factory, but I dont know if thats a power or a ground. I am wondering if i can just bypass the black box, as it seems to have only three goes going to it. Any ideas?

That will do it. Also dont check at the coils, check at the cam and crank sesnors themselves. Coils dont just fail, they throw misfire codes or some other weirdness. nipper

I'm bowing out of this one. I cant follow whats been done what hasnt been done and the timeline. You need to take it back to whoever worked on it. good luck. nipper

I am 99% sure from the entire thread that the electronics and electrics are working as they should be, the signal is there, the electrics respond. The delay is the (lets see if i can eplain this right by typing)... It takes X volume of fluid to fill the piston that drives the clutch. The electrics are calibrated for X fluid to move the clutch pack a known distance. Since the shim is missing or some other mismatch (lets make it simple) , the piston has to move further to engage the clutches. Keep in mind that there is not a lot of clearance normally in the clutch pack, so any increased movement can cause a delay. These are also special clutches, not like the ones that normally shift a car, so they may need drag on them to work. THat gap is not producing the drag it needs. ALso since the movement of volume X is in spirts, it will take even longer to fill that volume (please tell me if i confused anyone). As i type this, i am wondering if its possible that the clutches rattling around (Over statement but thats wht they are doing to a degree) are getting damaged? Everyone makes a mistake now and then, and everyone should get one chance to rectify it, but only one. nipper

Putting the car in low will do the same thing. Since he says he has a delay, the switch may give him a false positive (make him think things are fine when they arent) since the switch overrides the the control of the line pressure. The car still needs to go back. The mechanic needs to look at it again since he has said he may have messed it up (and have the nerve to charge to find out). nipper

http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=28&osCsid=befbf7f5ebffde8b6e06c7739eaae188 look what i found. Actually it was listed on cars101 web site. nipper

Sure.. The spare tire is not the same size as the other tires (odds are its also a donout and not a real tire). The fastest way to kill ANY AWD system is to have a tire that does not match the others. This makes the clutch pack contstantly "slip" instead of slipping just on turns like it should. This wipes out the clutches. NOw in the manual, it seems it can tolerate driving on the factory spare, but not an underinflated tire. The manual AWD system will die a very fast death you drive on a flat or underinflated tire for any length of time. You can also use the fuse if you have a AWD issue (like torquebind). If the cause of the TB is electrical, the fuse wont help. nipper

But ebay is ok as long as its not a HP "chip, or internal drive line or engine parts. nipper