nipper

Take out all the plugs and see what happens. Crank it by hand and see if anything comes out. nipper

Actually he said Chiltons :-p nipper

in a word, no it does not. nipper

OK this is what you need to do. First is replace the pcv valve (cheap). Usually if subarus arent leaking, and they use oil, its the PCV valve. Next with every fuel fillup for the next month you are going to check the oil. After that month you can gauge if you are having massive oil consumption, or if it was just a pcv valve. Subarus do not have a large oil reserve, and being a qt low will get you off the dipstick. Also they tend to be noisy when low on oil. At some point you will need to replace that o2 sensor, as your performance and gas mileage will suffer. Don't buy it in canada, but it through https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html Its much much much cheaper. you will need an o2 sensor for the emissions test. This has to be a subaru part. As with any car, the longer you put off repairs, the more it is going to cost you in the long run. So do plan on replacing the part when you can, as always faimly members come first. Hope all works out for the dog nipper

Ok a few updates. The head unit has an adjustable high pass filter. That took care of the base distortion. The new radio is 30 watts less power then the old one (that explains a few things). I think I am going to get his eventually http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069933_369846773,00.html Right now I am going to get the subaru subwoofer. Now If i do that how would things wire in? Is it as simple as just moving the 4 speakers to the amp and let the powered subwoofer use the factory wiring? Also in an OBW, where would I mount the amp (under a seat or will it get too hot, or the spare tire well.... or ?) nipper

maybe maybe not. The code may be stored as a fault, or it may be gone. The light being off means that the faulty item is no longer misbehaving. Depending on what it was, the code may still be there. nipper

Oh sorry about that, i thought you were the original poster, my bad. And talking purely from a professional point of view, your out of luck. Your past the 100K, and your in the range where if an engine blows a HG or has one leak, its an acceptable life span. You can try, but in all honesty, nothing latst forever. If this was a honda that had a HG issue at this mileage, most would just add it up as wear and tear (i have had a honda do it and i worte it off as that). Good luck, but dont get upset if they offer you nothing. nipper

You should be covered under the head gasket warrenty. I am surprised the dealer didnt mention this, as its found money for them. Next time you have a noise issue, take the tech with you on a drive and point it out to them. I dont want to say this is a bad shop, just lazy. 45.00 to find a noise is a bit much. http://www.subaruheadgasket.com/vehicleyear.htm nipper

If there is rust at the handle for the rear tailgate, that is easily reparable. I think it cost me 35.00 and an hour of my time to fix that issue. nipper

So far this is being seen on cars with over 100K, and at that mileage, its no longer considered a design defect, but just a part failing. If people under 100K have this problem, they need to report it to the NHTSA. nipper

but the "switch" bypasses the relay. So you may have a problem at the block. nipper

Sounds more like a reason to buy it nipper

I'm sorry to hear that, I hope your not gone long too. nipper

If its an automatic, open the hood. Look at the rear right hand quarter of the engine compartment. It is near the wiper motor between the strut tower and firewall. You will see a fuse holder that will be marked FWD. Odds are the cover is missing (like mine) and you will just see the fuse holder. It is rather obvious once you see it. Oh if it has heated seats, odds are 1/2 the drivers seat heater won't work. that seems to happen with age. It will work on high but not low. nipper

When Blu got a new engine, it was a bit of a rush to get it out. The engine was power washed. For the first 20 miles i was throwing missfire codes untill the wires dried out, then all was good. Now as far as the no start, you need to pull codes. We can make a educated guess about a cam position sensor (most likely) or coolant sensor, but next time it happens you need to go to an autoparts store and let them read the code. nipper

Murphies law of engines: If there is any chance of a foreign part finding an open valve it will nipper

Sheesh it sounds like your wishing James Cooke a good trip as he goes off to the artic nipper

first, stop turning it over second, youll find out when you check the belt third, if it sounds like its cranking normally (even RPM, even labor of the starter motor) you may have lucked out. But every crank of the starter can bring you that much closer to big trouble. nipper

Do a search on AAMCO on google. There are many many many many complaints about them, and many that are unresolved. They always lie, and are part of the reason that transmission shops have a bad reputation. It's a very rare instance when you go into an AAMCO shop and come out without them telling you you need a new transmission. nipper

oh cool, those are just the o rings that the plugs pass through in the valve covers. Thats easy to do (well easier then a head gasket). nipper

It's hard not knwoing what the sound is. Did you mess with the valves at all? This is not an interference engine. You can disconnect all the accessory drive belts and see if it will crank then. Did you leave a wrench anywhere? What exactly did you do to the engine, what work before this? nipper

i was just wondering if the flexplate/clutch had anything to do with it. Is this a stick or automatic nipper

Can you rotate the engine backwards 360 degrees? nipper

Phase is important if you remove the driveshaft from the front universal saddle flange from the driveshaft. You have to unbolt the universal joint. Since the saddle stays on the carrier bearing, you always have your reference point. Now AAMACO being what they are, there is a chance that they may have done something differently, and got them out of phase. They really really have to go out of thier way to do this, as it requires dropping the entire driveshaft, and unbolting the flange (between the carrier bearing and the tranny). If they took down the driveshaft as one peice, they couldnt get it out of phase (as they are supposed to do), but then again it is AAMCO. Luckily its very obvious when you look under the car. The universal should line up with the other universals. nipper PS always a chance they put his driveshaft in someone elses car too.

Rule of thumb is that when you do the timing belt you replace the following: Water pump timing belt tensioner idler main seal cam seals (thermostat since your there anyway) And you reseal the oil pump. Why? Because we know from experience that 80-100% of the above parts will fail between 106 and 212,000 miles. Since they all take the same amount of labor to get to, its prudent to replace them all at the same time, and not have to touch them again till the next timing belt change. Now back to you... You can be seeing either cam seals, valve cover gaskets (usually the covers are just loose), or if it is at the rear of the engine, the plastic sepertaor plate. The last item the engine has to be pulled, and the plastic plate is replaced with a metal one. Head gaskets arent leaking oil. The way the oil journals are designed they arent close to the outside, if you were leaking anything it would be coolant. What you need to do is steam clean the engine (or wash it at a do it yourself place) under the car. Then drive it and see where the oil is coming from. The most annoying thing about subaru oil leaks is that they drip on the exhaust and make a hell of a lot of smoke. nipper