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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. speakers are several months old, so they are broken in. I reset the "equilizer" so that it stradles the zero line my one or two (er um ... thingies ?) decibles ok stop snickering. thingies is a more then adequit technical term. hehehe nipper
  2. Its basically a printed circuit. you have a broken line in the circuit. Its easy to fix once you find the break. There are kits in autoparts stores. nipper
  3. Any engine at any time can blow a HG, period (especially past 150,000 miles). Does the car have heat, thats a huge question. Someone needs to monitor the car with th cap off. If there is a lot of bubbles in the coolant after the car burps (thermostat opens) then you have a bad HG. HAs he had any work done to the car recently? nipper
  4. Ok its not too often im clueless, so here i am be nice to me.... Subwoofers. I dont have a clue. I bought a new pioneer DEHP5900IB head unit. If i turn the base up too far, my new OE speakers get pissed off. The new unit seems to lack some power, so i cant blast the doors off the car anymore. The subaru subwoofer, how does it work (i know how speakers work). The head unit has outputs for a rear amp, a front amp, and a subwoofer output. Where does the OE subwoofer connect, and how does it get its signal. Is the speaker powered? Blu is a 1997 OBW, and on long trips i tend to use every inch of space he has on the inside. i also dont want to go the way of huge speakers and god awful enclosures. Also how do i increas power without spending a rediculous amount of money. so in other words..... HELP! nipper
  5. There is a odd little seperator plate behind the engine that is usually plastic. This WILL leak at some time. The replacement is metal. You need to replace that too. nipper
  6. Does he have heat when this happens? If no heat then its an air pocket of some kind (ie blown HG). If he has heat then its a radiator/fan issue. PS dont let it over heat. nipper
  7. infinite resistance is the same as holding one probe in your left hand, the other in the right, and spreading your arms apart. That being said, the subaru ignigiton system sues a waste spark system. this means that 1-2 and 3-4 fir together, and are two totally independent coils. 2-3 and 1-4 should not be electrially joined, so this is a proper reading. NOw your code... # 3 misfire is a fairly common code. It means that either the coil is failing, the wires are tired, or there is a hairline crack in the coil tower. When was the last time the car had a new set of ignition cables? Move the #3 wire to the #1 position and see if the code follows. if it does its the ignition cable. If it doesnt its most likely the coil is at fault. In the past after we tell people this, we never hear from them. This means one of three things. A new coil fixes the problem, the car exploded into a million peices incinerating them, or that somehow they made a hole in the space/time fabric of the universe and got sucked in. So how is your physics? hehehehe nipper
  8. If this car was in the U.S. i would say put up a stink and get subaru to help you out. I really don't know how your consumer system and warrenty fights work in the north. I know in europe once the warrenty is done, thats it, and no lemon protection. Yes the car either has a bad front pump or the seals are shot. A Front pump can be replaced, and aside from the labor, would not have an effect on any of the other parts in the tranny. They will know more once they put pressure gauges on the car. Luckily it is a very easy thing to diagnose. Stand your ground and see what you can get out of subaru. there is no reason for this tranny to fail, and it sounds like a mfg fluke. I did a search and there is no one anywhere complaing about a pattern of failed trannies. Subaru trannies are really robust, more so then i have seen on any other 4 cylinder car. Stuff happens sometimes. nipper
  9. Transition years can be weird, like 1995 (some have spedo cables some have VSS) to name one oddness. Another mixed year is 1999 . nipper
  10. Not really. When they say they are going bad, they are going bad. They are in a relativly clean place so they dont pick up a lot of dirt. Its close cousine the ABS sensor on the other hand can be fixed by cleaning them. nipper
  11. There are a lot of threads on the brakes failing when cold. Actually waht we think is happening is that the check valave to the booster is gummed up and sticking in sub zero weather. It seems to be easily fixed by spraying the valve with carb cleaner. nipper
  12. There are rebuild kits for this pump, i just dont remember where. Do a google search. nipper
  13. Since all the tires were underinflated, not evenly (but close), you may have escaped by the skin of your teeth. Now if all the tires were at 33 and the one at 23 you would have been doomed. Only time can tell. nipper
  14. JUst good old fashioned red blooded tranny fluid. I can look in the morning to see what my owners manual say, but its mineral based nipper
  15. Well its an educated guess from your description, so i may be wrong. Eventually i think the starter gear will seperate from the flexplate. You may be getting a differnt sound since the flexplate is also the starter gear. The forcing of the Torque converters is what made me think of it. There is a recent post on here that discusses the difficulty of putting a TC on the car and the repurcussions of not doing it right. Of course i can be completely wrong and it can be a heat sheild :-\ nipper
  16. Well there have been some tweaks to clutches, and many more tweaks to the ECU. The new systems have multiple speed sensors, and even read the wheel speeds and applies individual brakes. I dont think TB was a thought, as limp mode even in the phase II 4eat is fully applied AWD and third gear. nipper
  17. What Skip Said. The cooling system is only under pressure when its hot. As it cools down it sucks back in the coolant in the resivoir. If it consumes all that liquid, then it will suck in air. nipper
  18. The noise is a broken flex plate. It will get worse with time, and get to the point where your going to have to do something about it. Torque bind, If you've been driving with it for a long time the damage is done and nothing i can say here will rectify it. you can try changing the fluid and see if that helps. In all honesty, I see ntohing wrong with the tranny except the AWD TB needing some repair. I would put a another automatic in there, if you are so inclined. It is easier, faster and cheaper then swapping to a manual. nipper
  19. GOOD! you know dead horses to beat are in short supply, i'm going to have order more :-p nipper
  20. I like having a book next to me as i work on the car, as I hate getting my laptop all greasy. nipper
  21. I rented a 2006 for 10 days and took it off road a few times. I was disapointed in the lag for the AWD to to catch up from a dead stop (in drive), but it seemed fine on the go. It seemed like the calibration or something changed. nipper
  22. Im going to just paste this someplace so i can cut and paste. anyjo switch BYPASSES the TCU and directly controls the solenoid. The AWD unit is far more then just a solenoid. Its a specially designed clutch designed to tolerate a limited amount of slip in turns. It works in conjunction with the spool vlave inside the transmission that regulates the pressure. When you bypass the TCU and force the solenoid on with a switch, you are locking up the AWD without allowing the tcu to modulate the duty solenoid (rapidly shutting it on and off hence the name duty) to allow for 50/50 split and the differnential action. From somone watching the tires, you cannot tell the solenoid is rapidly pulsing. You can be as questionable as you want about the forced 50/50 split, but its in the the subaru documentation that reverse and low, along with wide open throttle force the TCU to apply 50/50 torque split to the awd. This is controled, and not a full on. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAatPh2Win04.pdf The 99 operates basically as the same as the previous model, except where the changes have been noted in the 2nd article. nipper
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