nipper

hehe im going to be the annoying third voice. you can go aftermarket pads, but dont go cheap. do not buy the 19.99 pads, get the 35.00 pads or higher. The emergency brake is in the hub of the rear disc. Use a subaru rotor, all the aftermarket ones that are the same price or cheaper seem to warp easily. Inspect the parking brake and make sure everything is free and nothing frozen Clean the sliders of the calipers and lubricate them. Its not that bad a job to do. nipper

What he said. If you still want to do it, you need to get a donor car where you can strip it of everything. you cant do this peacmeal otherwise it will turn into the job from hell. nipper

Thats a great price. I'm paying for an axle at a dealer for 250.00 installed on my 97obw. you got a clutch and axle and 4 wheel brake job nipper

can be a few things. There is some flex at the bearings at turns (very little). What you can be hearing is a- backing plate rubbing against the rotor b- loose brake pad c- Brake pad on the verge of having the wear indicator contact the rotor. d- Loose plastic wheel well rubbing against the tire Do you feel anything in the steering wheel or the brake pedal? Is there any clicking in the front end on turns Can it be the tires are under inflated or out of alignment? nipper

i got mine from haynes. See if they are interchangable, if they are you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right, and can easily swap them. call jamie at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html and she can tell you nipper

except that these engines do run forever if well maintained. Then there is the other cost benefit value, 150.00 (or whatever it is) versuese 2-3000 for replacement car thats a stranger to you. If this was a GM ford or even toyota i would think twice about it, a soobaru, do it right the first timew and it will keep going. nipper

www.cars101.com for sepcs . Haynes manual, sit down and read it. It is pretty well written, hit anything you dont understand ask us. Tire pressure is critical to the awd system, check that every time you get gas. Used to be you checked with every fillup. Tires are once a week., and a walkaround the car once a day. A low tire can wipe out the AWD system in 2 days. nipper and welcome to our crazyness:headbang:

i bet he didnt do a damn thing once he realized it was jumped. nipper

when in doubt change it, yes change it, as they have lots of miles on them nipper

i tried everything, but the techron product worked http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59609&highlight=gauge nipper

maybe Your tank is split in two, and it uses a siphon (subaru calls it a jet pump) to move fuel from the drivers side to pass side. As far as wrong reading gauges, i used a techron product and now my gauge is on e at 250 miles as opposed to the 100 miles it used to do. My low fuel light comes on at 280 miles at the earliest. Only the fuel pump side (pass) has the low fuel sensor. The fuel tank empties drivers side first, then the pass side. The light is very depndable, and always gives you 1.5 gallons to empty nipper

SEE i told you a new belt and it will fire up nipper

hrmm thats a waste of whisky nipper

thats the one i was looking for nipper

GOD i hate that noise, though im surprised dremel doesnt have a "home dentisitry" kit nipper

er um, didnt i tell you we all were going away to picnic this weekend, and we wont be around If youve done GM, soobies are a dream. I bet you have one stuck frt caliper (clean the slides) and mabe need just one rotor. nipper

i meant you may need pads on all 4 wheels of the car, but i cvant see you needing 4 rotors, unless you were complaining about warped rotors. In order to need all 4 brakes, damn, your car must have sounded like nails on a chaulk board. a ring of rust doesnt mean anything. What are they calling hardware? There isnt much hardware to discs brakes, just 8 antisqueel plates, which you can reuse. RUNRUN RUN very fats to an independent shop and get a second opinion. If you replace rotors you replace pads, but man a soobies brakes are so easy, something stinks big time. WHy do you need rear calipers? Frozen sliders can easily be fixed. Brake jobs are SO easy, get yourself a haynes manual and do it yourself. We will naswer your questions, man i HATE midas nipper

out of everything the 1/2 shaft is going to give you the biggest fight. Sometimes they don't want to come out of the hub. Once you get the engine out everything else is so easy. nipper

i wonder if oral b has a attachment for cleaning headlights:clap: nipper

i dont trust midas. Subaru rotors dont like resurfacing most times. Its just cheaper to get new rotors and not have warped rotors in 10,000 miles. Why do you need so much brake work, i smelll a rip off. it is SO very rare that you need all 4 brakes at once. The fronts do most the work. I see you say its 108,00 miles, maybe you need all 4 wheels, but why all 4 rotors nipper

mileage please , i have a few ideas, but i need that nimber nipper

Jamie at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html is great, OE rotors are reasonable, you can get calipers at any autoparts store. I would recomned medium grade or better on pads, or OE pads. nipper

Duty c controls the awd clutchpack Duty A controls the harshness and speed of shifts (controls line pressure) Duty B controls the lock up torque converter (which locks up in all but 1st gear) SOlenoid #3 controls engine braking and downshifts Solenoids 1 and 2 have to deal with revers and third gear. nipper

no you can do it yourself. I am having the clutch pack replaced also, and i am still on the (painful) mend from back surgery. nipper

SUbaru on the autos use a clutch pack. Normally the worst thing in the world for a clutch pack is slip, but this pack is desighned to toelrate slippage. When the solenoid fails, the default mode (which i think is stupid) is 50/50 split. And this point, there are very high frictional forces, and the clutch pack chews itself up quickly. The solenoid regulates the amount of split. On the manual, you have a center differnetial and a viscous coupling. The viscous coupling gives you constant 50/50 split. The coupling is made up of altenating plates FRFRFRFRF. the speed differential between those plates, caushes shear (heat) in the fluid. The fluid thickens and then you have 50/50 split If the fluid stays heated too long (non matching tires) the fluid cooks itself and the plates and up getting glued to each other. hope that helps. nipper