nipper

thats the clutch all right. if there is no freon (generic term) in the ac system the compressor clutch will not engage. You have a fairly simple issue of a leak someplace that needs to be fixed, then the system evacuated and refilled. Midas price isnt bad and sounds far more reasonable (and what it should be). nipper

ok i am going with a main seal leak or a oil pump seal leak, knowing the Above. Those are the two that can make big leaks. Looks like you get to do it all over again (timing belt wise) nipper

you can beleive them but there are things that the subaru ecu do not monitor (like ac pressure, it could care less). Not all readers perfectly interface with all cars, the same way not all sound boards work in all computers. good luck nipper

i think the one before the converter has to be a sooby part, the one after it can be generic nipper

ok i answered sweet, now your turn (im getting a headache). hehe you bought one when GM had a hand in things. now check your ground wire. Im not quite sure what your saying you did. Also did you use a high current spade terminal. Sometimes the terminals arent rated for the load. Want to try something? Stuff like this isnt usually a problem on the hot side, but a problem on the ground side. If it was on the load side, you would see some arcing on the terminal. check the negative side. Also check the head light relay for that side of the car nipper

compression test are a bit quirky, your looking for balance as opposed to high numbers. you can have 4 cylindes at 122 125 127 120 and thats fine. You can have 160 130 150 180 and something is wrong. Anything below 100 is a tired engine. Also 120 60 128 50 means a bad head gasket of bad valve timing on a subaru. No more then 10% differnce between cylinders (usually if numbers are bad they are really bad). Wet tests are a little tough due to the boxer design. You may have to take it twice to get the right numbers in order to spread the oil around. Normally 120 60 50 128 means a bd HG on an inline engine. Make sure the car is on a charger or jumped as starter rpm will affect the readings. nipper

https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html you can get it on line. They have great prices, or call them and ask for Jamie nipper

wet and dry (with all plugs out and air intake junk removed), thats how you tell if you have a ring issue or a valve issue. You take a dry test (assuming low or out of balance numbers). Then you squirt/spray oil in the cylinders and do a wet test. If you have bad rings the numbers will go up. If you have a bad valve everything will stay the same. If there is no change everything is good if you have good numbers. if all the numbers are low and no change on the wet test look at the valve timing. nipper

you can disect the terminal from the socket. you need a small jewlers screwdriver ( that would be my next step, but its hard to explain how to do). You release the terminal by pushing down a little plastic tab (i forget which direction what goes). Thern you can play with the terminal all you want. nipper

thanks for the history. Thats what i would do to, a wet dry compression test, and the sensors. Since you have a running car to play with, test those sensors first so you know what to look for. Was this engine running before hand? any chance the ecu is fried? nipper

Droped the car off at Grand Prix Subaru here in Hicksville NY, I always find it disconcerting when i know more then the service writer. I said the car had torque bind (of course the damn light wouldnt flash) and he gave me this deer in the headlights look. I just dictated what to write on the work order so we shall see what happens. When i drove to Physical therapy today the car was perfect, luckily from PT to the dealer it started acting up. Why do i have the feeling they arent going to find anything nipper

ask them how much to replace any leaking o rings. thats the rewason why you lost refirgerant. Foolish to fill it up and have it all leak out again nipper

90% of the time its the o2 Sensors, its been a while since anyone has had to replace a cat here nipper

well one way is to hold your hand over the intake, you should only feel air being drawn into the manifold, not pushed out. Also you should still get some sort of combustion even with 2 dead cylinders. Lets check the basics: Do you have fuel Are the injectors getting an electrical signal Check the cam and crank sensors for a heart beat. Use an analog meter and crank the motor, i forget if its an ac or dc signal, it will be very low, but the needle should jump. Check that the ignitor is sending out a signal (see the haynes manual) Was this engine running before the transplant Exactly what did you have to splice in and where. nipper

thats the one. Are you sure the bulb is good before you try anything else? nipper

power steering rack. Follow the power stering hoses. How is your PS fluid level. Did you say the oil pan was wet? nipper

30 seconds to clear the codes, over night for a hard reset of the computers. Usually most leave the battery disconnected for 30 minutes nipper

Japanese Domestic Market. Due to japans weird motor vehical laws, and the fact that ther is no used car market in Japan, you can engines and transmissions with low mileage. nipper

you can always get used with a guarentee or a JDM, but yes make sure your sitting down. nipper

that works, then the socket is fried. Call jamie see if a pigtail is available or go to a junkyard and get a couple of them and splice it in. nipper

i think it will go away on its own, but you may want to disconnect the postive battery cable for 30 seconds to clear the codes. nipper

You people keep scaring me. Ok first thing first. We have to see if its a voltage issue or a current issue. Take a volt meter (9.00 one works just as well as a 100.00 one for this kind of thing) to the socket and make sure there is voltage at the terminal. If there is no voltage no matter what is done at the socket, the problem is not there. If there is voltage its the pigtail that has to be replaced. Go to subaru parts dept or call Jamie https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html and have her help you out. If there is no volatge let me know and we can figure out where to go from there Also a junkyard may be another source, as any socket from 1995 on should fit. nipper

If the radiator supports arent to badly mangled its fixable. you may not find out untill you start tearing things apart, so go ahead and tear it apart. Worse thing that will happen is that you learn about body repairs. Look at the gaps at the doors and trunk. If they are still straight, go for it. nipper

Basically its nice to get the oils warmed up bfore you change them. One reason is to help it flow better, the other is to get it all out. In all honesty, ive been doing it both way for these many years, and unless its in the 40's outside (30's or less i pay someone as i dont have a garage) it doesnt really matter. nipper

this has come up alot (do a search). Basically the official line from subaru is that it is recomneded, but not required. BUT you may see a reduction in performance. nipper