nipper

i'm not sure what your asking. The automatice do not have a center differnential. They have a clutchpack, and a solenoid that controls it. Since the clutch pack is designed to allow some slip for differntial action, there isnt much you can do get what you want. If you install the switch, you will still manage to chew up your clutches pretty badly. This can give you perm awd or no rear wheel drive at all. There really is no way of getting what you want unless you open up the tranny and weld the clucth plates. If the computer is working, i would leave iit be, as the automatic awd system is very responsive. These are fwd biased cars, and they will not operate well in rwd only mode, thats if you can even get it to behave that way. If you were to remove the front axles, the copmouter will disnegage the rear drive at 50 mph. The manual the viscous coupling will over heat and give you what you want. Now since this is a junk heap and i am assuming is never going to go on the road you can underinflate one tire and drive it and let the plates fuse themselves. In a normal subaru, you have no choice, even in the older d/r to pick just rwd. These are fwd cars. The dual range will however drive just the rear wheels since there is no center differential action at all. If the vehical is normally rear wheel drive with a 4wd system, then the rear wheels are the predominat drive wheels. No one has a problem with it, its just the way the drive system and the suspension was designed. Fwd pulls rear wheel drive pushes. RWD is best suited for pulling loads or trailers, AWD is the best of both wrolds, and FWD gives a better traansfer of pwoer to the drive wheels (same for a rear engine rwd car) Also the drive wheels get better traction. hope this helps. nipper

vented rotors are the norm on 4wd trucks, or on any modern vehical. They never have an issue. Maybe there is a some vibration that the heavier rotor was masking ? nipper

Ej in a EA body.... well that just confuses everything, and i want to see pics. i miss my 1988 GL hatchback with the d/r. Now if i can get a 2.2 or a 2.5 in it nipper

1990 it seems is the cut off. nipper

It can be considered rude and boarish to show other people's faults in a public forum, and last time i checked this was not the ultimate grammer message board. . I actually went to school in a time when they cared about manners (just dont ask me what fork is used for what), and that was pointed out repeatedly. Sometimes the information presented is far more important then the manner in which it was delivered. I managed a factory floor with 9 differnt languages and cultures under my supervision. If somone wanted to learen the language, I would help them, If they did not, and their communicatuion skills were getting their point across, i was happy with it. Written reports would be required to have proper grammer. People of different languages and from different cultures use this board. Since I am far from perfect, I am not going to go around and correct peoples grammer (though I may point out that cars are powered by engines and not motors every so often) . Now that being said, I am going back to what this thread was about, and it wasn't grammer. (and i apologize for taking this thread way off topic). I have looked on other boards, where others have made reference to an EJxxs engine, but could not find out what they were talking about. I hope that we havent scared off the original poster, as I would like to find out if he specifically is talking about some engine desgination we don't know about. This would not be the first time this has happened. nipper

i dont htik its the pump as these things are robust. looks like the red/blu wire is hot and the black is ground. Use a meter and check for any opens on that circuit. You can hot wire it maybe to see if it runs. Do you hear a relay click with the cruise on and the brake pressed? nipper

all else fails there is the hose. Soak the engine, let it sit for a few hours, then try t start it. Well somone else start it while you look for lightning. nipper

We are going to make this happen on demand. AT dusk you are going to use a spray bottle filled with water. With the car running, your going to spray all the high voltage ignition parts, and look for pretty blue sparks. I think you have a cracked coil tower. nipper

hehehehehehe Well it means the coil works, doesnt mean the contacts are any good. There is an inhibitor relay, a main relay (which is what you heard). There is a cruise control pump. The brake switch has 4 termnials to be checked. There is also a diode box somewhere, any of these can cause the cruise to go poof. Its not a complicated system. Unfortunitly not much to do to diagnose it either, asdie from letting the dealer plug into it and see whats what. nipper

with all the bad typping on this site, including mine, i assume nothing, and its better not to assume it of others. This place would drive a 3rd grade gramar teacher to suicide at times nipper

its not the engine that bothers me:D , its the 225,000 mil;es and a turbo thats the problem. Engine should be rebuilt then have a turbo on it, otherwise there is a very strong possability of blowby. nipper

check all the connectors at the brake lights for continuity (and clutch if you have one). There is a cruise control relay someplace that may have gone bad. nipper

a multiple or a possesive? nipper

first question, do you have all your barke lights Second to they go on and off 9all of them) when they are supposed too. Do you know how to use a multimeter. i seriously doubt its the "little can that the vac hose goes to " thats bad. nipper

Is the car running? If it is, just pull the fuel pump relay or unplug the fuel pump and let the car run out of gas. nipper

check the brake light and clutch switch (if applicable). After this it gets a little more complicated. nipper

what he said:banana: nipper

There are reasons these engines last for ever, they are lazy. You cant just install a turbo on a engine with 225K on it, the rings wont support it. Subarus have no hidden horsepower or torque. The flow is pretty much maxed out, so even if there was a manifold to buy, i wouldnt recomend it. Another HUGE power loss is that transmission. Automatics pre 95 just sucked power. Rev limiter is in the ecu, you cant change that. Auto trannies and turbos have short lives compared to non turbos. YOu need a much lower mileage engine, preferably a turbo with a manual tranny to do what you want. Translation, buy another sooby thats already a turbo. nipper

You do realize that altenators dont start to put out full power till 1200-1500 rpm nipper

there are guide pins that may give you a fight on the bellhousing. Also there is a bone shaped mount (i think) that you have to remove. Do take the radiator out. AC does not have to be disconnected, just put it to the side. nipper

only if it has a manual and non-awd transmission nipper

1/4 inch is A LOT of play. you just answered your own question wheel bearing nipper

ahhh so NOW you say hou feel it. Is it in the front or rear, how many miles. Did you shake the tire while it was jacked up and check for play? nipper

what he said. nipper

you have a sticking caliper or something in the rear. The fronts do all the work, the reas keep the car stable. Is that temp at both wheels on both axles? nipper