nipper

its a bolt on part. Do a search, lots of info on the knock sesnor here. Its intermittenet cause its going bad, not completly bad yet. Knock sensor code is one of the few codes that is truly just the knock sensor. nipper

this is the best time to learn how to do one, as it goes under the heading, that you cant make things any worse, and have everything to gain. Just putting the timing belt on and cranking the engine you should be able to hear the starter working against engine compression to start. I'm going to modify my position a bit, go ahead and see if it starts, then you can replace everything, just dont drive it nipper

like i said, the mechanic deosnt want your business, he doesnt want to work on the car. i'm glad somone remebered that part nipper

if the crank and cam sensors are gorssly out or synch, the ECU wont send a spark signal (from what ive seen). nipper

yes nipper

haynes just say no damage to the body, and no continiutiy between the terminal and ground. nipper

i know there is a good joke there some place nipper

well its yesterday someplace else nipper

If he has compressed air and the fittings. How much you want to bet with a new timing belt this puppy just fires up. nipper

hehehe yup, and actually 500.00 isnt that bad a price. dont even talk to me about surgons ...... nipper

sure your just all screwing with my mind while im on pain meds.... your all out to get me thats it:lol: i know:brow: nipper PS its not a waste if you learn anything

For testing puposes, yes you can skip everything, but dont let the car start with out replacing the tensioner. nipper

yes coming on for two seconds then going off is normal. Coming on steady while driving is an over heated tranny. nipper PS did i loose track of this thread or did it shift gears on me?

Well i have documentation from you? that says 16 blinks mean that you have to play with the diagnostics connector to pull the codes. Once you get into the diagnostics then you have the blinky codes> it says it will blink 16 times 0.25 seconds apart after an initial 2 seconds on. i can send you the documentation i have. nipper

get the tranny looked at. This is NOT a light to ignore. you can ignore a cel if there is no drivability issue, or until inspection time, but ignoring that light, if its TB eventually the ar wont turn corners and you will have a 800.00 repair. Under the hood is a FWD fuse holder. Put a fuse in it. If the TB goes away your solenoid is fine, and you have a deeper i$$ue. If it has no effect it means your solenoid is fried and you get the cheaper repair. how long has this light been flashing? nipper

heheh have a seat grasshopper Do a search and there are pages and pages. I think im the resident expert on it, and today i got it (mumble) 3 days after the tranny light started flashing. If you feel a binding or sort of drag on tight Turns. It may be worse on one direction then others, but failry obvious backing out of a parking space. the car wont roll without you giving it gas, and then it feels like your pushing something. It can quickly destroy your awd clutch pack if it gets too bad. The normal way of fixing it 90% of the time is a tranny flush, but when the light is flashing you MUST have somone look at it if your not qualified, as you can make a 250.00 repair into an 800.00 repair. nipper

the 16 blinks tell you that there is a fault. then you have to play with the connectors to get the code, which is the grouping your talking about. Lets ask a basic question, how is the car driving, any signs of torque bind? nipper

ooo i forgot the steering rack. Is it dripping on the exhaust pipe? nipper

that should have nothing to do with it, as these engines go to readline at full throttle. Quick test is to remove one plug wire at a time and see if the noise changes. If its a connecting rod the sound will change. Main bearings are never an issue. The noise should be fairly steady and a knoc knock knock sound. If its not it may be a cracked flex plate. try this test then ill give you something else to try next. nipper

agreed. Air bubbles go in alot easier then they come out and can really increase the volume. nipper

say read this about the blow off valve http://www.gofastbits.com.au/index.php?parentid=tech_info&option=tech_info

get an ignitor from a scrap yard, preferable a car that was totaled. i think bad ignitors amy be the reason some older cars get junked. Take the coil pack too, sometimes the coil will cure it. These are really hard to diagnose over the net nipper email me the zip i want to see it lthrpup@optonline.net

im sorry i meant oil pump. ANother good place for a leak is the oil pressure switch. Waterpump just gets replaced. So you resealed the oil pump? nipper

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl833h.htm that should help nipper

how exaclty are you checking the fluid level nipper