nipper

Considering the motor reverses to go up and down, i dont think there is much you can do. Also the switches cant handle a huge load. There isnt al ot between the power windows and the battery. There is a relay, then the pwr windows circuit. You can get more speed by getting a 10 volt or a 8 or 6 volt motor. You may gain speed by replacing the relay, and taking the switches apart and cleaning them. Also a fre$h motor would help too. nipper

i got tired just reading that nipper

There is an SAE standard for window and sunroof speed (beleive it or not). Windows without a force detector usually run slower Its called the "gee the window/sunroof is closing and i really should move my head now AACK" standard nipper

You may have a weak coil. The tin can coils had oil in them to insulate the wiring. i'll be honest and im not sure about the new coils. ANother possability is a fuel filter. What is the level in the tank when this happens. nipper

The "filter" is only a screen, and deos not get changed. In fact if you drop the pan and imporperly tighten it (or bend the flange) you are doomed to tranny pan leaks. Best thing to do is a flush, and your sooby will love you. nipper

If something isnt selling you stop making it. Simple economics. nipper

Im putting my money on the evaporative system. Thge system is made to handle gas fumes, it is not designed to handle liquid. For some reason it is sucking up fuel. I know how we are all good and go by the mfg directions and never put more gas in beyond the first click on the pump handle, so i wont even suggest you are doing that This really is a no brainer for the dealer. If it always happen take the tech with you to the gas station and fill up the car and how him. YOU have to fill it, not him. Also have him bring the code reader so he can see the engine parimeters in real time nipper

Old lincons used to have everything work off hydroboost (the power steering pump). The reasoning was that there was zero noise from the hydraulics. The down side was the windsheiled wipers were lethal if you got in thier way, and the power windows could cut your head off. nipper

on the SVX baord the run dawn through the radiator to clean them up. (step one remove raditor from car) Just an idea Could be the radiator is just clogged and time for a replacement. i use radiator.com myself. nipper

DId you have the radiator flushed when the HG was replaced. You just described a clogged radiator, but that doesnt happen untill the car gets over 10 years old. Of course antifreeze + oil = gunk, and that will clog it too. If it was a HG issue it would have boiled over, a clogged radiator the gauge will go 3/4 high, the ac will kick off, the temp will drop and repeat. nipper

Even if it is both sensors, it is much cheaper to replace them both then the cats, and still get a bad cat code. The o2 sensors have a finite life, where as the cats seem to be lasting longer and longer (low sulfur fuels). When i replace a cat if everything is original and im doing it myslef, i'll replace the o2 sensors too. The exhauts system on cars have gotten much easier to work on, and soobies are almost a dream compared to what they used to be like. Bolted flanges are wonderful. There are gaskets at the cylinder head and at the flanges (i'm 90% sure about the flanges) nipper

AWD is simple, and this has nothing to do with the awd, its a simple clutch issue. Try starting the car off from a dead stop in 3rd or 4th gear. If you can do it without stalling the car, you have a bad clutch. The clutch could be worn, could be contaiminated, but either way it has to come out. Was a receipt supplied stating if the clutch was really replaced and what was done? nipper

First thing first, check your 02 sensors. i would bet you have a a bad o2 sensor before a bad cat. a bad tank of gas ( a really really bad tank), or running too rich can cause a cat to go bad. How many miles are on this car?

exaclty how did he rebuild the clutch pack. After 1997 1/2 the design fault was fixed in the car, and the complete housing is replaced along with clutch packs. Yes you need a new mechanic. He knows nothing of the issues with the clucth pack. In all fairness unless the mechnaic really knows it well, its a dealer repair (and its usually fixed the first time). There is no such thing as a really tight clutch pack. At that point he should the tranny shold have been deemed a failed unit. As long as all 4 tires match and are properly inflated you can rule that out. Since the car drives normally with the fuse in you can rule out the duty c solenoid. You have a bad clutch pack or tranny or both. The system itself is very simple, all the complication is in the computer. The computer works or it doesnt, and in your case, it sounds just fine. It sounds like the 2nd tranny was fried to begin with, and your mechanic didnt do his homework. nipper

one last possability, but it does point out a dead compressor. There is porbably a shear pin someplace for when the compressor seizes, it doesnt take the drive belt or anything else with it. It is possible that that pin has sheared due to a seized compressor, allowing everything else to turn normally. nipper

the same way its possible for a engine to turn and only have two cylinders turn. The compressor is a small pump, just like your engine. It has a crankshaft (a plate set at an angle if i remeber correctly) and pistons and valves. You shold be getting some pulsing from the gauges even if your valve is fried. I am begining to thnk your compressor is shot. Also this will requrie flushing out the system and a new receiver/drier. Its rare for the valve to go bad, as it is a very sealed system manipulating a clean fluid. IF the compressor did throw something, there can be debree in the entire system. Best case scenario is the valve is shot. Worst case is the comprssor is shot. Either way (and since there is a possability we are wrong) its time to take it to a shop and have them look at it. Its really hard to diagnose over the internet. It would help to hear whats going on, but we cant do that. nipper

The knock sensor is an acoustic device. It works off a piezoelectric quartz chip. The quartz vibrates abd creates an AC signal. The larger the noise the bigger the signal. The sensor should not show continiuity. It should be open to ground. If it is not, then it has gone bad. Also inspect the body to make sure it is not cracked. The knock sensor is one of those things that will throw a fault code. It is very hard to test aside from what i said. nipper

if the compressor was truly running, there would be some needle fluxuation as things got compressed or at the very least pumped. Look at the site glass (if you have one) can you see anything moving? WHne you engage the compressor do you hear the loud click of the clutch being engaged, and then followed by the engine working a little harder. nipper

Sounds like there is something wrong with the expanasion valve. Do you get any fluxuation in the needles or do they just stay still. nipper

You dont have to buy one, you can rent one from autozone or other big name auto part houses. They should have the proper reader. nipper

Are the wires OE ? Also if it was a used engine it may still have the original wires. nipper

no i still, think its what i said it was nipper

Just confirming as that is a common mistake. Like i said give me your email, ill send you a scan of the wiring diagram (i have a 1200 noon flight tomorrow so tonight would be better) and seeif you can find out whats happening. Did you ppull the main relay under the dash?

it may be amplifying it, but its hard to tell without you taking me for a test drive. It also may be the cause of what you think is a miss. DO you feel a thump or a poowerloss/miss . Its up to you, if the wires are original it wouldnt be a bad idea to change them (with OE) and the plugs. If its not too annoying you may want to wait till you get the mount and see if it reduces any. My feeling is that you need wires and plugs (im guessing they have not been changed in a long time) and that the bad mount is amplifying the hiccup. nipper

SOunds like plugs and wires wouldnt hurt. nipper