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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. i dont think its fuel pressure. Maybe a weak TPS sensor, since there seems to be a pattern to the hesitaion .. nipper
  2. i agree inspect everything .. it could be a sensor getting tired, but if it has been like that for a while, i wouldnt worry about it. nipper
  3. If the o2 sensor is tired it WILL improve your gas milage, The O2 sensor is one of the key sensors in performance. i'm curious about the beeping thing.. is it possible its just a fluke and the key in the ignition is doing it. i knowmy OBW does it once in a blue moon due to a worn key. nipper
  4. Could be either at this point. CLutch would not be out of the question, as usally a bad synchro shows up at 1-2 shift. Clucth test (which may not work at this time...since it just rearing its ugly head) Try to start the ar off from a dead stop in third gear. Car should moan buck and even stall. If you can do it smoothly, i would say the clutch is going. Also if it is the synchro it wont get dramatically worse over time, but the clutch will.
  5. Ok here is the original email i got from a yahaoo list.... And it talks of sitting there with the car running in park nipper To: outback@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 8:22 AM Subject: RE: [outback] stopping 05 Outback seatbelt chime? Rich: I don't have time to find the posting right now but on one of the Edmunds Town Forum boards there are directions on how to turn it off. I believe it is in a 2005 Outback discussion board. I saved one of the messages, hopefully this will be enough detail. If it does not work let me know. I think this needs to be done within a 30 second time period. Here is the cut and paste: The seatbelt chime can be turned off by the user. Just turn the key to the ACC position and begin buckling and unbuckling the seat belt as soon as the chimes start. Remember to wait until the seatbelt icon stops blinking before unbuckling. Repeat twenty buckle/unbuckle repetitions and remove the key. The chimes should be disabled the next time you start the engine. The process seems to be finicky so you may need to repeat it several times before it takes hold. Good luck. Karl > -----Original Message----- > From: outback@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:outback@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rich Rubel > Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 9:05 PM > To: outback@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [outback] stopping 05 Outback seatbelt chime? > > Just got an email off-list from someone wondering if there's > a way to turn off the intermittent seatbelt chime/flash > reminder in an 05 Outback. Not that they plan to drive w/out > belts, but even if you're sitting somewhere with the engine > running and the car in park, you get the chime. > > Anyone got an idea? > Thanks. > [RICHR] To subscribe/un-subscribe vist http://groups.yahoo.com/group/outback
  6. Not a joke i can give you the original source if you want (once my email puter kicks in).... its touchy, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Otherwise you just live with it. I only joke iif it envlovles slaughtering a small animla and chanting over the engine computer on a full moon with ans easterly wind.... nipper
  7. There is a weird on off way of doing it ... let me see if i can find the way of doing it. Its a luducrously complicated method of on of's if i remeber correctly. found it.... The seatbelt chime can be turned off by the user. Just turn the key to the ACC position and begin buckling and unbuckling the seat belt as soon as the chimes start. Remember to wait until the seatbelt icon stops blinking before unbuckling. Repeat twenty buckle/unbuckle repetitions and remove the key. The chimes should be disabled the next time you start the engine. The process seems to be finicky so you may need to repeat it several times before it takes hold. this is from an edmunds board on outbacks nipper
  8. Its just one of those things that you want to cover, Doesnt mean it DID any damage .... but just have it written down someplace to make sure its noted. nipper
  9. rattle as in pinging noise, loose nuts and bolts .. or worse. Try it in the AC position too. Does the ac blow cold? May just need a tune-up, could be something loose, could be a heat sheild. nipper
  10. Normally the next step is a tranny flush, but i think you are way past that. When you put the fuse in does the FWD light come on on the dash. When you put the fuse in, from what i remeber, it energizes the solenoid constantly, instead of cycling the solenoid. This energized solenoid turns off the rwd. Now for the awd to be totally gone, im going to say the clutch pack is shot. The most economical repair is a tranny swap. i know on a 98 OBW the clucth pack installed was going to cost me 1000.00 (luckily a tranny flush fixed my torque bind). i think you are beyond torque bind, to a dead pack. nipper
  11. OK im going to guess you have a very very angry battery cable going to the starter. or the starter has a dead short in it. Inspect all battery cables Check the starter wiith an ohm meter to see if there is a dead short. Check the battery for a dead short. Inspect ALL wiring under the hood for any abrasions. Check the fusable links Check all the fuses Make sure the fuel pump is running. It sounds like either you accidently shorted somethig out with the jumper cables or a big current item freid whae you did it. If the battery is good, dissconnect the alt and start the car, it should start. There arent too many places on the car that would make that big fuse blow. nipper
  12. Try driving in D3 and see what happens, i agree i dont think this is a tranny issue, but a bad sensor someplace. nipper
  13. also look at the universal joint at the steering column, It could be on its way out. nipper
  14. Actually going into 3rd and not holding sounds like the tranny is on the way out. Check the tranny fluid, if its burnt, the trany is fried. Eventually you will have just 2nd and reverse. nipper
  15. Flat bed. Even subaru changed thier procedures and now recomend a flatbed. They used to say put the FWD fuse in and tow with the front wheels off the ground or 4wdN . Now they say flatbed. nipper
  16. no real damage to be done here, because th car cant rin on deisel, as opposed to putting gasoline in a diesel. Relapce all the filters, inclding in the tank, flush the entire fuel system, the fuel pressure regulator may not be happy, i wouldnt know without knowing what the internals were made of, clean the injectors and plugs, and have the 02 and cat tested for function. its possible the cat got damaged, and thats not cheap. nipper
  17. I would suspect maybe a drive belt, like the ac compressor belt, then the tranny. nipper
  18. If they fix the car under warrenty of some kind, they own the parts. They will send them back to engineering and try to figure out what went wrong. I know in the US (i think all states) you are entitled to the old parts, but if there is a core charge of any kind you have to pay the charge. nipper
  19. Check the obvious first, make sure the bulbs are good, The visor lights are always hot so bad switches in the visors. Check to make sure there is power at the bulb socket with the visors down, if not it is prbbly in the visor itself. Thye arent very complicated switches. The may even be servicable. The heater bulbs bettween the seats come on with the dash lights, and the power lights for them are indepent of the dash lights. The repalcements can be had from radioshack but they have to be wired in carefully. I just did it on my car, but im used to working with small circuits. nipper
  20. My 97 has them OBW LTD has them stock too. Its easier to get seats from a junker then to try to install the heating element. I have been told its not impossible to do, but its alot of work. nipper
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