nipper

time for a slave cylinder and or clutch mater cylinder. At that age i woud replace them both. You know if you replace one the other one is going to go. nipper

hehe no problem... never said it was easy .. at least it didnt involve chickens and lighting candles. You may want to take that procedure and put it in the owners manula. i have no idea what hapens if you have to disconnect the batery. nipper

Search the threads for torque bind. Make sure all your tires are equally inflated and worn First pop in the FWD fuse and see if it goes away. Next step is to get your transmission flushed. After flushing drive in circles 4-5 times to loosen things up. This wil usually work unless it is really far along. I have a 97 OBW got it flushed at 180K miles and it went away.

Not to add fule to the fire .. and i dont know if thais has been posted yet ..if it has i do apologize http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html nipper

Most of these things are pure profit for the dealer. What should make you decide is look around your neighboorhood. Do you see any cars that are around 10 years old and rotted to hell. Look at subarus on the street. If you live in a heavy rust belt, then yes i would consider it, but i still might not do it, as most cars can make it past 7 years with no issues. My outback here on Long Island (more salt with that snow flurry please) and has no rot except for the tail gate handle. Otherwise its perfect. ALos alot of these applications have to bond to the surface to work, when they are really just bonding to the paint finish. Yes there is paint finish under the car too, as its easier for the robots to paint the entire car then just a section of it. nipper

A UK auto show reveiwed the Subaru Estate (Outback to us) and gave it glowing reveiws, but they tended to sterr it towards the upper class crowd. I think its just too expensive for most europeans .. considering how cheap they can get a car over there. nipper

Check the ignitor .. they can cause some very bizzare issues. Are you sure your loosing spark? The coil is of waste design, meaning that two cylinders fire at the same time, but only one is under compression. nipper

It depends upon the car really. I would make sure that it is an official subaru warrenty, the price sounds too low to be one. The GEICO one is not bad. Whne do you have to buy the arrenty. If you have up to three years to buy it, i would wait out the first two and see if the car gives you an problems. If i was buying a car with alot of electronic widgets on it, i would get an extended warrenty. The core subaru product seems for the majority is trouble free. If it was a 6 cylinder, i would think about it as there arent many people that have them. The big ticket items on a car are usually the ABS, transmission, engine and AC compressor. None of these seem ot be an issue with a Subaru. Emissions are now covered by a federal 100,000 mile warrenty, so that takes care of any engine mgmt issues. nipper

yes it was real easy, just needed a bright light. If you can replace one of those mini xmass light bulbs, you can do this. nipper

hehe well then youll hate me when i say it costs me 6.00. nipper

You STILL Havent gotten a manual? Untill you get a manual your going to waste alot of time trying to figure out whats wrong. The ECM is located under a false floor on the passenger side of the car, about where you put your feet. The ECM rarely goes bad, and is susually the last thing you look at. nipper

a really quick test is to spray the bushings with a silicon lubricant and see if it has any effect on it. Squeeky struts are usuallly just annoying as long as they still bounce rebound properly, but i think its more of a busing thing. nipper

Go to crutchfeild.com they have an extensive list of speakers that fit the car, and you dont have to buy from them, they are just a great resounce. Actually you already did that, what you do next is call them and ask for advice. Also take your favorit CD to a car audio sotre, and listen to the speakers. Speakers are hard to choose , its all by ear and personal taste. Thats what i do. hehe im not a big fan of BOOMBOOMBOOM...but it is fun to watch the license plate screws back out from the vibration .... Speakers on the subaru are real easy to swap out, panels come out esaily just be nice to them. nipper

DO a search on climate control These bulbs burn out way too fast, use the radioshack replacement. No one fixes them because the dealer wants to sell you entire units, not just the bulbs. nipper

You can get a universal pigtail at a autoparts store. it is really easy to do. nipper

Check the air mixing door, the vaccume motors ... could be a dor that needs adjustment, could just be a poor design. You Do close the dash vents when the heat is on? The outer vents are independent of the air direction selector and will keep you from getting all the heat to the floor. nipper

You have a bad spark plug wire or a hairline crack in the coil tower. This is nothing to be alarmed about and happens on a lot of cars. Just means it times for one of those two to be replaced. It is actually a common way to diagnose a ignition issue. nipper

I havent done it in a Sooby, i have done it in a honda. All you have to do is chisel/grind/drill the head off. You can use a small chisel or strong screwdriver to unscrew the screws. Its a very soft material. nipper

Why dont you start with the simple and obvoius .... replace the old battery cables, both pos and negative. Its not alot of money, and if they are original probably wouldnt be a bad idea. nipper

Its the snow tires. They have a much more agresive tread, and differnt compound, so they have more reistance to roilling, and will cause a rather dramatic loss in gas milage. If you really want to check put the other tires back on and i bet it will go back up. nipper

If you put the FWD fuse in does the torque bind go away? i think since you are actually getting a duty c code, that the solenoid may be dead. i dont know how deep it is buried, but i imagine its accesable to at least test, The FWD fuse is supposed to energize the solenoid. If the solenoid is dead it wont energize and the problem wont go away. nipper

Did you get yourself a haynes manual? they have a pretty good testing section on the ignitor and everything else. Is the relay you took apart a straight forward relay? Also di you check the voltage at the relay coil when you turn the key? Lets go through the checklist again ... The car cranks. The fuel pump runs You have fuel pressure Did you attach a test lamp to a fuel injector to make sure you have power at the Injectors. If you have a timing light, use that to check for spark. If you have no spark, the inductance (thing you clip around the spark plug wire) will not fire the light. The coil pack is a waste spark design, mening plugs fire off in pairs. Weird cycling of realys tell me they are not getting enough voltage/current to stay engaged. Have you checked the voltage at cranking? nipper

so i have a 50% score here ..... sure be difficult. i played with my visor lights, and when you rotate the visor done the lights come on, but go too far and they go out. Let me poke around some more and see what i can find... nipper

youll make a mess all over that nice clean engine thats all nipper

way cool. Always happy to hear good news. i would use subaru coolant and the subaru additive. nipper