nipper

WOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man you just gave me lots and lots of ideas.... im going to have brush up on my non existant electronic skills thank:drunk: you much nipper

Seals are directional, thats how they work. If you can alter the depth of the seal that would work depending upon how deep the ridge is. nipper

OUCH! and it still runs? damn these little engines can take a beating.. nipper

well then that is good news. Could be a lazy lifter then. As long as its not in the bottom end of the engine thats a good thing. Take a long screwdriver and use ot as a stethescop, resting your ear on the handle and see if you can isolate the noise. nipper

Easy test. With the car running, using insulated pliers (that entire zappy thing can be disturbing), remove one plug wire and listen to see if the noise goes away. Put the fire back on and repeat. If the moise goes away its a connecting rod bearing, if it doesnt it is something else. nipper

It happens, but it is very rare on modern engines. nipper

maybe you need a gas cap? nipper

your reading too much into the code. All it is saying is that there is something not making those two cylinders to perform as programed. i seriously doubt its mechanical. it can be a fouled plug, bad wire, bad coil, bad ignitor, andnthats just a start. We need to see all the codes to start hunting it down. nipper

Uhaul used to have a car carrier based on a pickup truck, that could have one car ridem, and you tow the second, and it had some storage capacity .. may be worth persuing. Also a car about the size of a subaru will fit in a large truck nipper

i had that too then it finally died. Its internal to the ciruit board. Mine also got the beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep of death, where i finally just disconnected it as my hand was getting sore. nipper

water pump, replace the oil pump, main seal, cam seal, belts, anything associtaed with the belts like a tensioner) any rubber hoses that are there (you know the annoying tiny ones that only decide to leak after you put it all back together). Depending upon the age of the car, i would also consider replacing the radiator, then all would be golden for a long time. Inspect the raditor on the outside and check to make sure all the fins are truly attached to the raidiator. Its hard to inspect the inside of the raditor, but a replacement can be had for 100 new or less used. Well raditor depending on how much you like th car. But if you do all that you should be good for at least 60K nipper

One cylinder being cleaner then the others is could be indicitve of a head gasket leak, but it is kind of hard to tell with the engine apart and over the net. Cross hatch still being on the cylinders is a good thing. Droping a lifter, well we all done that, just dont drop the camshafts. As long as you have the engine this far apart i would go ahead and split the case. If you want to rebuild this or learn how to put it back together, you need to stop at this point and get the HAYNES manual. When you start tearing things down beyond this point some things need to be kept in order and marked. Actually go ahead and get the manual, tear it all the way down, as it will give you a good understanding on how the engine works. Never a bad thing. nipper

HOLD IT!!! Suggestion, try the easy thing first. Subarus are notorous for the valve cover bolts to come loose. Check to make sure they are tight first. nipper

hair drier wont have enough power, if you can get your hands on a heat gun. nipper

drop these guys an email.. http://www.cars101.com/ it may not hurt.. nipper

FLASHING BAD! A flashing light means that there is potential damage to the catalytic converter if the situation is not fixed. It also can mean that the cam position and crank position sensors are out of synch as would happen with a worn part in the timing belt system. Once again people rely on the CEL and codes way too much. You have a drivability issue and need to drive the car with the reader pluged into it and see what codes it is throwing in real time. How many miles on this car, what transmission, what service has been done recently, how long has this been happening .... never ignore a flashing idiot light, its bad enough people ignore them when they are on, but when they are flashing its teling you something bad is happening. When was the last time the car had an o2 sensor replaced or a tuneup? nipper

It should be in one of the better repair manuals, but since even at the factory there is a range of dimension, you may be better off getting access to the crank and mesuring it with a caliper to be absolutly sure. nipper

The window isnt that scary. In fact once you pull off the door panel the problem may be as obvious as a loose bolt. It's an easy thing to work on. nipper

i did a quick search and assumed the car was 4wd and found this http://replacement.car-stuff.com/parts/carstuff/wizard.jsp?year=1992&make=SU&model=LOY-4WD-001&category=N&part=Brake%20Booster&returnurl=null&dp=true&showdc=true#top 108.00 Search the net ... you can get good prices. nipper

Basically what i wanted to do was get a small LCD display to be able to show real time data, not to pull up codes. nipper

Ac comes on for a few seconds when you start the car in cold weather to lubricate the compressor. Thats why there are so few compressor failures now. You can have a stuck fan relay, or a bad fan switch. the fan switch is in the radiator (i could be wrong). If this is the failure mode for the switch, thats really good. They used to fail so that they never came on and next thing you knew it was head gasket time. nipper

ok not to pick on you .... but its getting annoying when people dont post the milage on thier cars when they ask for help. How are the front tires wearing. You have a few things there that can cause this issue, either ball joints or tie rod ends. If you have a lot of milage on the car get them all done and be done with it. Tie rod ends will have the "floppiness" that you feel. Ball joints will keep the car from tracking straight. Jack the front of the car off the ground. Have a freind grab the tires at the 9-3 oclock position and have him wiggle the tire. The tie rod end should have zero play in it ( the tie rod end is what is attached to the steering rack, and nothing else attached to the front wheel looks like it). The ball joint is attached to the lower control arm. You can try to wiggle the tire at the bottom with your hands, but the better way is using a pipe or 2x4 under the tire and have somone pull up on it while watching the ball joint. The ball joint should follow with zero play in it. If all these chaeck out, go back and wiggle the tire again, if its the wheel bearings, the tire will wiggle around its axis. It is possible it can be sway bar or control arm bushings, but these tests will also show a bad lower control arm bushing, as that is where the play will show up. Sway bar bushings will be obvious to the eye. nipper

how many miles and what tranny on this puppy? nipper

Its just the interlock relay thingy. Your hearing it cause relays get a bit more noticble when they are cold. nipper

well the car should stall with a third gear start. You should be able to doa second gear satrt with no problem. i am beginng to agree its oil on the clutch disc. with what information i have. Does it go away after the car warms up. Let it sit in your driveway running for 15 minutes then drive it? nipper