nipper

no that wont work .... and im getting a better understandong now. the idea is to take the sample as it sits unstirred in volume of the tank, at the level it happens. Have you checked the sock filter in the tank? With it being an external pump, i may start to agree with contamination. With the external pump, you can always dissconnect the hose, hot wire the pump, and drain it all out that way... but stl no guarente that you will get it all. Sounds like you need to drop the tank and get it cleaned. nipper

ARe the tanks on trhe 91's like the later legacies. The fuel pump is accessed from a plate inside the car ... and its a split tank if its AWD, or is just on tank. i was thinking if it is a fuel qaulity issue... remove the cover, take a jar wiht a cord attached to it. Get a feul sample and let it sit for 1/2 hr then examine it, If it is contmainated fule it will be seen in the jar. If this is the problem your going to have the tank cleaned, otheriwse you eil never get rid of the contamination. Just a thought. nipper

yes you can drive for 30-60 min on a good battery, no accessories, and no charging. If the battery is over 3 years old i would consider replacing it ..as they arent made for deep discharges like this, and with winter coming, may just be good insurance. nipper

Well they are right, especially with electric fuel pumps. Get a fuel pressure gauge on the car and watch it. Fuel pump issues tend to be continous, and not related to the fuel level of the tank, ie starvation on heavy throttle. Have you tried removing the gas cap when this problem happens. It could be a vaccume lock in the tank, which can be traved back to the charcoal canister system.... that would always occure at the same tank level. nipper

Does this have a heater control valve, or does it use a mixing door to blend hot and cold air to vary temperiture? i would see if the heater control valve is cloged/shot .. since you say one side is hot and the other isnt. Also could be a cloged heater core. Have you tried just backflushing the heater core only? If it uses a mixing door, maybe the door mootor isnt operating right.. Just an idea nipper

You may want to take it to an independet body shop and pay them for an hour of thier time and have them check the chassis to make sure it is straight. When we used to have tough alighnmnets in the shop, we would empty the car of everything, set all the tires at the factory specs. we would er um ..politly ask the drivers weight and any passengers (one guy had a car pool buddy that i swear outweighed the car) and would put dead weight in the car and then align it, explaing to the customer that all that weight in one side of the car could make it not track right. The laod weight of a weighted vehical is meant to be distrubuted between all the seats and the trunk, and not one seat. Al we could do was the best of both worlds, which did satsify the problem. Most shops will not go through this extreem (hence the differnce between a mechainc and a true technician..we liked the challange). Eventually the guy didnt car pool anymore so we rest everything and all was well. nipper

actually they are cheap rump roast OE bulbs, the radio shack ones last longer. you wil need good light, lots of patience, and a good needle nose pliers .. i even think the radio lights are replacable, but i always chucked the factory radio for an aftermarket. nipper

It depends upon the rod conditions. ABS achilly heal is unpacked snow and ssnd/gravel. The biling up of materil in front of the tires when they lock up actually acts a wedge and brings the car to a stop sooner. ABS is excellant on wet roads or ice or packed snow. What i would suggest, is instead of pulling the fuse, why not just install a toggle switch so that you can disable it in snow. i wil admit that the 98 ABS sometimes made me wonder, but when i switched to a premium tire, it got much much much better. Once again i think its a matter of matchingg the right tires and the weather... and maybe you just need better tires. You never know untill you try. I got my bridgestomes with a 500 mile test drive, so i know those options exist. nipper

is it blond? nipper

Looking over the new sooby, you know, i dont like it. Now if i could transplant all the electronic goodies into a 98 GT nipper

Well if you PLAN on doing this purpously, the guys on the older generation have lots of advice on this as they tend to like to teach their soobys how to swim.:cool: The important things seem to be to make sure all the electrical connections are water proof by using lots of di-electric grease on all the electrical connectors, and making sure any black boxes are water tight. The engine itself is water tight, and as long as it doesnt swallo any water your fine. Hydraulic lock is NOT pretty... and the other trick is to keep moving, and dont let the car stall. nipper

heheh 20 years ago here in NY was 180K ... house new in 1950 was 8,000.00 ..... sort of blows one mind. Thats why i wont buy a new car, i prefer used, but the new AWD in the subarus DOES make it soooooooooooooooooo tempting

im just curious if the ABS is trying to releive some sort of internal pressure, or it just has an off but functioning sensor nipper

you need to know how differentials work. a differntial is a mechnaical computer. It divieds power between two wheels at a 2:1 ratio. This allows cars to turn and have the wjeels rotating at differnt speeds. You have two differentials. There is a center clutch pack that is not a differential in the pure form. but acts like one. A computer cycles a solemoid to apply up to a 50/50 torque split frt and rear. You are abusing the car by driving at 50mph with a broken axle. THe car is sensing too great a differnce between front and rear axle speeds at 30mph. The clucth pack is in full luckup trying to make the car go, and sensing it is still having a dramatic miss match in forces, is reducing the rear to 10% ro protect itself and the driver. In old fasbioned manual 4wd they advize NOT to go over 50mp on dry pavement for the same reason. Subaru i imagine ahs this written in the puter for the same reason. When you have one wheel (one since the axle is broken) spinning at 50mph the inside of the differentila is spinniung at 25mph. The rear differnetial is spinning at 40mph so thats a HUGE differnce of 25mph netween frnt and rear of the car inside the transmission. This is speed getting fed back INTO the transmission, not the way it should normally flow. To save the car from destroying itself it shuts off the rwd untill numbers make the computer happy. The cars is operating as it should. Lets hope you didnt fry the transmission.

Subaru board 101 the search feature. Use the search Luke.... use the search ... ALl the bulbs are replacable, and yes they al light up. They are easily available from radioshack. Search under climate control nipper

must not live aruond here where the avg house price is 486,000.00 US nipper

the only thing i can thinkof.. the chatter is the ABS unit releiving pressure. The sensors themselves are hall evffect sensors.. sensing a magentic pulse. Now the only thing i could think of is that maybe some humidity and dirt from sitting over night is affecting one channel of the unit, making the unit think it has a locked up wheel, until the unit does its boot-up and realize that it really isnt moving anywhere, then corrects itself. Could also be a hairline crack in a sensor. I dont know the logic on the ABS unit, but thats the most reasonable thing i can think of. ABS Units are pass through designs, meaning that if the have a real failure, they will not work at all, but wont affect normal braking either. HAve you tried starting the car wwith your foot on the brake pedal? nipper

ttthhrrppptttttt mine doesnt do it ...just came back from the store, no issues. nipper

Gte a free battery/alt output test. I agree about the battery being over 5 years old replace it, but it sounds a bit more like an alt problem. nipper

fram sucks, wix and OE are the best. There are places you DONT cut corners on a car, oil chages and filters are one of them, especially if your planning on keeping the car a good long time. nipper

You dont have to start with codes. Sometimes i think we reley on the codes way too much, and unless you know what they mean, they will either throw you on a part replacament mission or totaly confuse you. If you can get your hand on a compression testor, do an engine compression test. this will tell you if you broke a timing belt or whatever. If you really know your car, and you broke a timing belt, you should be able to hear the ebgine cranking a little faster then usual, as there wil be no compression in the engine. Next if tou have compression, make sure that you have spark. My gut feeling is that you snaped the timing belt. How much "overdue" are you for the belt. nipper

there are two screws where the ashtay is , or if there is no ashtray, where the little pocket is. You will need a stubby screwdriver to egt them as they are upside down. nipper

2nd and reverse are all that your left with when this transmission burns up its clutches. 2nd and reverse work off the same clutch packs, but also see the least amount of work as far as torque load goes. nipper

I would go with the OE for this part, too may things can go very bad if its a inferior belt. nipper

ive never seen a heater control valve go bad, how is the water pump. I always got my radiators from raidiator.com i like them good prices and they will adive you if a betteor bogger raditor will fit in the car then stock. i like them. You may also want to inspect your colling fan motors and see how they look and spin. nipper