nipper

You dont totally getting all the tranny fluid through the drain hole. Most the fluid is in the torque converter. You need to repeat the procedure a few times to get even close to a full flush. This is the one place i gave in and paid somone to do it instead of driving on ramps-drain-fill-drive-repeat. On the differential drains, just dont mix up the front and rear drain plugs. nipper

5 speed vs 3 speed automatic. i dont know if yuo have a lock up torque converter or not, if you do it may not be engaging. i dont know much about these year automatics as i would never own one for this size engine. nipper

thats easy. Ask more how does electrical components fail. When the componet is cold, dimensionally and electrically everything is making contact. As thigs get hot, they expand, and if there are any weak connections, will open up.. Also heat is electricities enemy. As heat rises, so does internal resistance (less electrical flow in the wires). Also with age and heat insulation breaks down, and instead of using the full winding, may be using part of it, so less energy output. ALso its possible for diodes to go open when hot etc etc etc. hope that answers your question nipper

I think they overlap, as any saftey reacall or study tends to cover north america. Do a google search for auto recalls canada...but i think NHTSA is accepted everywhere in north america. nipper

its real easy, just get a decent kit and its all there. The coolant lines already run to the radiator. there is a small cooler in there already. I do beleiove your just disconnecting that from the radiator, cutting off the neds of the lines, and usinng hose clamps to attach. The cooler attaches to the front of the radiator usually suiing some zip tie system. nipper

im not sure either, but i would replace the clip(s) as long as everything else. Hate to have all that worked ruined cause a too old clip let go 100 miles after you did the clutch. nipper

In all honesty, subarus dont really change much from year to year within a given a engine design. If there is a change that you need to know about they will note it. Go with haynes. nipper

or a power steering fluid leak. nipper

everything that i have read is that subaru flywheels do not like being resurfaced. Seems they are pretty light already, and resurfacing makes them thinner, and prone to warping or over heating. Also there are some parts of the car you dont skimp on (read anything buried). I would also check all the shaft seals to make sure no grease is leaking on any surfaces. Also replace the clips that hold the throw out bearing in, and also replace the pilot bearing.AC compressor get it from a junker, as they tend to be very expensive (as a part goes, not just subaru), and have the entire ac system checked for leaks. It rare to hear a subaru ac compressor let go, so i would have alot of faith in a junker unit. Now if it was a GM i would say get a rebuild. nipper

so you have a death wish. You cant do anything about the way it operates, short of hot wiring the on switch. All cars have an on switch that is seprate from the cruise control. the switch is a hard power cut off in case something goes wrong with the cruise. Thgis is also a SAE design standard. Iver seen too many cruise controls get stuck (in other brand named cars) that without this switch the car would be a runaway. As far as down shifting itno third, that is because its a four cylinder engine with an automatic. I found it annoying untill i discovered in hilly country to drive in D3 as it cut down on the hunting ofr gears. If you drove th car with your fot on the same roads you will find the same thing happening if you were to match the software curve. I have has aftermarket cruise control which would not downshift at all, it would just cut out. nipper

this is one of those things where its cheaper to buy a rebuilt one. You need new bearings, a bearing press, a way of chacking the windings for maegaohms resistance and fro opens and shorts. You wil need a voltage regulator, diode trios and brushes. you dont want to do a rebuild 1/2 way then have to do it all again because you thought you didnt need bearings.... Most of this is not available at your standard nappa store. And actually if you figure in the labor to rebuild it plus parts, its cheaper to get a rebuilt. nipper

GO to the NHTSA website and fill out a report. You may be an isolated incident you may not be. nipper

with turbocharged head gaskets i would suggest OE. Get a haynes manual, as they cover it pretty well. There may be an aftermarket kit for cylinder head gaskets (my barin is foggy so i cant rember who would make them), as they are pretty good. I have used aftermarket engine rebuild kits, which usually have the same gaskets or better then subaru. Google it and let us know what you find. nipper

you know at 99.00 and for all the troubles hes having, it may not be a bad idea to go to subaur and know for 100% sure your getting the right axle. i had this same issue with a 88Gl and only way i go out of the mechanic-=not -knowing-what-he-was-douing hell was by getting it from OE. nipper

look for oil leaks or grease on the exhaust sytem. Thats where the burning smell is coming from, at that mileage your due for a leak.As for defrost it sounds like you have a bad mode door motor. nipper

Thats more then enough to make the sensors think it took a much harder hit then it really did. i dont know that will pan out with a dealer nipper

Its a fairly simple sytem, consisting of the brake light switch, a switch oin PRNDL selector a relay and a solenoid froom last i looked. If you put your push the button with the car in park no brake pedal you shouuld hear a relay click. With your foot on the brake pedal it wont clikc buty should some out of gear. The first thing i would chase down is the interlock relay, then next the brake light switch. The solenoid is very light duty and i really havent heard of one going bad, but there is always a fisst time. nipper

Airbags are extreemly complicated peices of software, what may have been a minor hit to you, may have just had the right signiture for the software. But yes double chaeck the recall. i would look on ebay or a scrapyard for replacements. The sterring wheel one should be straight forward, not too sure about the passenger side. nipper

It almost sounds like its some oddity in the HVAC head unit itself. Get one from a junky and see what happens. nipper

Any particular reason you didnt just buy a replacement rebuilt axle? nipper

Its not the top speed, its how fast you get there..... i can bring down gas milage to 15mpg if i go zero to 40 in full throttle bursts and never exceede 40. nipper

i agree. Usually i filll the oil pmp with olt (or try to) before i clse it up fure things up. Thst the one down side to subaru engines, its hard to prime the oil system before starting to avoid all this nastyness. nipper

This is real easy....and a comon problem. Once in the spring, once in the fall, you want to run a can of lysol through the HVAZ system. make sure all the windows are open in the car, and put it through all its settings,full heat full cold and even recirculate.. but do that last. You rpay it in directly at the air intake under the hood. nipper

well what does the fluid look like and smell like. My vote is you have a dying tranny and eventually you will have only 2nd and reverse. nipper

It wont make you gain anything. these are AWD cars, and AWD cars get less gas mileage then 2 wd cars. All the fuse does is shut off the clutch pack. All the parts of the AWD are still there and creating drag. In fact it may even be possible to get less gas milageGas milage depends upon road surface, traffic, hills, driving habots, tire ratings, air pressure. A grippier tire is a softer tire, and will give you less milage then avg tire. In fact i even doubt you wil see any differnce in gas milage. The easiest thing to do is drive with lighter right foot. nipper