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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. DO you hear the eletric fuel pump running? The fuel serves two purposes, the obvious one, and to keep the fuel pump cool. Make sure the fuel pump has power, and stick your ear next to it, or make sure you have flow. COuld be an air pocket, but thats not usually a probelm with a gasoline engine. nipper
  2. You know for an older car, there is nothing to be paranoid about. Nothing lasts for ever withyout maintanence. Everything sounds reasonable. Your just doing maintance that was due or never done. Timing belt was due between 60-80K (not sure the exact milage right now). Altenators go bad, just check your battery for winter. You need cv joints. Clutch grabbing when cold ....try starting off from a dead stop in third gear. Car should buck kick and stall. If you can do it, your going to need a clutch eventually. Once this is all done you should be good untill the next timing belt interval. If the car really makes you paranoid, give it to me nipper
  3. If its not broken dont fix it. Have you ever had the axles replaced. Have you noticed any vibration in the front end. If not i wouldnt worry about it for now. nipper
  4. I bought the tweeters from ebay for 25.00. Keep your eyes open as they come up quite alot, and are real easy to install. nipper
  5. Battery life depends upon a few things. Longer life battery have thinner plates and shorter plates then short life batteries. The biggest killer of batteries are the repeated deep cycles of charinging and discharging. Deep cycle batteries for electric vehicals are 6 volts instead of 12 so there can be fewer plates farther apart, thicker, and higher off the bottom of the case. As batteries charge discharge they will with age collect material in the bottom of the cells. This is from sulfation of the eletrolyte. Eventualy this material will touch the bottom of the plates and start to kill off the cell. The other cause for premature battery failure is no hold down. The battery bouncing around can ause the same material to come off the plates and short out cells. Its not unusal to have to replace a battery mid life if the there is a chargingn system failure, again for the same reasons. Here is more then you ever wanted to know about batteries http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html nipper
  6. Take the carpet out of the car and let it dry. It will never dry in the car due to no air circulation, and the backing. nipper
  7. Which way does the oil run, left/right or front/rear. Where is it front. rear , left or right side nipper
  8. From subaru before 1997 1/2 the duty c solenoid did not have a stainless steel seat. the seat would erode and allow fluid to go past it and hence lock up the plates. The other scenario is dirt and gum which binds up the clutch plates. This is what a flushing would fix. Its a simple little system, but it has a very sophsticated computer algorythem that makes the AWD very impressive on the automatics. nipper
  9. er um .... there is this really handy invention. Where you stick the key, if you twist is all they way, as far as it will go, the car will start. Its almost like magic. I dont know about anyone else, but i would much rather replace a starter then replace a catalytic converter. Its handy to know how to push start a car, but with fule injection you wait till the last second to turn the car on then let the clutch out to avoid that entire BOOM thing nipper
  10. Volt meter goes to any hot that is on when the car is on, preferably before the load. I have used the hot to the stero, or the hot to the cigerette lighter (i dont smoke). nipper
  11. OK here is the plan .... keep distracting him while i sneak up from behind and buy the car nipper
  12. darn it:banghead: some day somone will fall for that. If the head gasket is weeping oil, i would let ti go untill i wanted to replace it. From waht ive been reading its not that big a deal, the problem is getting a doaner car. Persoanlly ild love the cvt myself. nippe
  13. ECVT was a great idea and nightmare. The electric/powder clutch was the problem, not so much the ecvt itself. The only manual gear selection on the ecvt i do beleive was low, since there are no gears in the ecvt, just a steel toothed rubberband. If the ecvt made it this far in life, i would buy it, as the head gasket is not a big repairto do on a simple little engine. Later on in life if the ecvt goes poof, you can alwyas bolt in the 5 speed, which is a common thing to do. tell you waht, tell me where it is name adress and phone, ill pick it up and teste it for a few months ... and let you know nipper
  14. TOrque bind is only when the car is moving in tight turns. You have a power sterring or a rack problem. Odds are if the rack has no leaks, your power sterring pump is bad. nipper
  15. The car can be push started if there is enough juice to run the fuel pump and the puter, but not enough to run the starter, or if teh starter fails. Even the salesman dont really research the car or even read the owners manuals.... alot dont bother to know thier product. I think once the car gets below 4 volts it wont push start. I think that the bar minimum for the ECU fuel pump and fuel injectors to fire off and to excite the altenator, but im not sure. As with any car with an altnator, of the car is stone dead, it wont push start. You need some residual power there to make an electric feild in the altanator to getr things going. nipper
  16. Just means the axle will self destruct rather quickly ... dangerous well .... you do have spare drive wheels, in the back (4wd).. but it may strand you. I would get it fixed right, at the very least get the proper axle from subaru and have the mechanic install it free of charge as a warrenty item.. nipper
  17. Its not just the splines, its some dimension (length?) or diameter of the stub thats only a few mm difference, but thats enough to make the axle quit really fast. nipper
  18. Crankshaft source http://www.standardcrankshaft.com/products.html complete crank kits. Also ask them about connecting rods. Myabe give ccr a call too. nipper PS spoted this on the justy board as to mode of failure http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=enginetech&action=display&thread=1076447357
  19. you need to replace it. The outer sheath has given way and shrunk and no matter of adjustment will fix that for any length of time. nipper
  20. It is possible there is the wrong axle in the car. I had this same exact problem in the same car. After 5 attempts ot fix it, i took it to subaru, and they put the right axle in the car (and the job was cheaper then the private mechanic I used) and i never had the problem again. nipper
  21. Maybe its the metric electricty vs. the english electricity (damn that guy looks evil) There may be some polution controls that are in the US cars that arent in the candain models, henc some differnces. nipper
  22. Dealer is right, and thats not neccassarily a good habit to have. If the car is running fine, and you see things that look like they should mate up but arent, then dont put them together. Sme owners manuals will talk about these connections, some wont. The majority of drivers dont rea thier owners manuals, let alone poke under the dash nipper
  23. i would keep driving it untill it goes or dives you nuts. i had a (dont laugh) a 1969 AMC Rambler with a cracked flex playe that drove 30,000 miles like that. Just dont fo any hole shots with the car, and it may last forever like that. nipper
  24. I had mine break off in a 1988 subaru, Supposedly the next generation they redesigned the pipe so it wouldnt do that. I had mine wleded but it worked for 3 months, and i just coughed up the bucks and replaced the pipe. nipper
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