nipper

Sounds like your waterpump is toast. The bearing my be shot. Water cooled cars dont really do anything at idle, and can idle without overheating with a poor performing cooling systemt at times. You frev the engine, your making more heat. Heat is getting dumped into the water, but since the water is barely moving, the car gets hot. Waterpumps usually give a hint they are going bad, but i had one totaly fall apart on a nissan once, along with the whiring noise, and then finally just falling apart. Its not unheard of. nipper

On every car, in every door panel, tailgate and body panel there are small drain holes that get filled up with dirt, leaves etc etc. The hokes get clogged up if not checked once a season, and next thing you have is no body left. Drilling the holes was not the best thig to do, as you have exposed raw metal to water and air. Go around the car and check anyplace that lokks like it may be a drain hole and clear it out with a coat hanger.

ok then ild go with lubrication system failure or lubricant failure. Really the best way to find out what happened is to get youe engine oil analyzed. From there it will tell you whats in the oil, if there are any contaminants (antifreeze, gasoline), and has the oil been actually changed. Wht metal is there alot of in the oil (did it chew up a bearing) nipper

and that ol so wonderful word ...... warrenty nipper

If its a sudden mechanical failure, there may not be any codes to throw. Dont be so fast to jump down a mechanics throat, remebr folks, we dont have the car in front of us, and a code will not tell you why the engine let go. People rely on the CEL and computer and give them sometimes way too much credit then they deserve. If i was the tech, the car wouldn't start or was making horrific noises, i would say the same thing. having 100 codes is just as usless as having none. Now that being said, unless the car is seized, or has a connecting rod haning out the side of the block, or hemorging oil, a first thing would be a compression test and see if anything is still connnected to anything. Massive sudden failure is usually an oiling/lubrication failure of some kind, or a timing belt letting go, and that wont throw a code. I dont remeber if this is an interferance engine or not. nipper

Those are really healthy number. I wouldnt mess with them. nipper

Stick with a name brand bulb, and not one of those hyped after market fake HID bulbs. The fake ones wash ouy in the rain, and are worse then OE. nipper

i love my 1997. Original head gaskets, 181K everything works winter package, It is just starting to leak oil but untilll omone gives me INS money i haveno choise butto live with it. Notto mention i stole it on ebay nipper

same as above ...the flush not working, and the torque binding will get worse will time untill it chews up the tranny. nipper

oh its under the seat...... i think something in a nice viking funeral will do .... flames always good. Best to just go on ebay or replace it with an aftermarket one. nipper

129.00 for a battery and installation extra ... DAMN i have to go there and opne a battery store. I never paid more then 70.00 for a battery. Installation ... please... its justa hold down and the two clamps. They must do better drugs there then i have now for my back nipper

something like this Thank you ..... just its the prettiest sooby i ever had and want to share. For some reason i can build puters and graphic programs tend to stump me. nipper

well i got it in the photo album .... progress .... now to get it here nipper

ild love to pst a pic of my Outback here, but i hate to sound stupid ...wrench smart geek stupid, how do i do it nipper

This is possible. Personally i see nothing wrong with a factory rebuilt engine or tranny as oppsed to a new one off the line. Odds are if there is a weak part in the tranny that came with the car when built, and there was a design change, it has been incorprated into the rebuild. Either weay you get a full warrenty. nipper

SO from what ive seen nothing major here aside from cleaning the MAF sensor and the throttle body cleaning. Whats is your complaint right now? a rough idle? Lok around and make sure there are nor loose or cracked vacume hoses. There is no fail safe, there is closed lop and open loop operation. Open lop means that some of the sensors that tell the computer everythig is of is not in its proper tempertiutre or postion. These are if im corect are the 02 sensors, the TPS sensor and engine temp sensor. You can get an IAC malfunction due to a bad vacume line. Its not unheard of for even the best mechanic or best of us to leave off a vacum hose. MAF sensors are delicate things and sometimes dont take well to cleaning. nipper

It takes time to get answers, We all dont know everything, and we may be doing somthing else to jump on a thread too fast. Also the site has been acting odd of late. not every posting has answeres. nipper

www.tirerack.com will actually give you the revolutions per mile on each brand of tire. nipper

Could be just worn out bushings or cable in the linkage. Have you tried (safely) dissconnecting the linakge and shifting it at the tranny itself. I dont remeber how this linkage is set up, if it is a rod or cable, but thats my guess. nipper

Only thing i can think of is that they may be causing drag in the system .... or the binding that you think is the AWD is not the AWD but a bearing seizing up. I will admit im fishing here... nipper

If i remeber correctly from my transmission classes reverse and 2nd gear work off each other. It sounds like you lost your tranny, and will soon loose those too. Is your fluid burnt? Did this happen all of a sudden? Can you manually shift? nipper

hehe yes brake pads would be a good thing People dont understand that "I CANT STOP" too well nipper

i agree you dont have a rack issue. Racks have a differnt failure mode. I think you have bad bushings, now that you have explaioned the struts better. They seem ok. nipper

OK lets back up. This is a manual (thats what happens when the threads run with time gaps and my pain meds kick in). There is nothing servicable in the sealed unit. Its a viscous coupling. There are discs with holes oin them that altenate from the input to the output of the transmission IiIiIiIi something like that. As the fluid is sheared by the discs rotating at differnt speeds, the fluid gets thick and transfers torque to the rear wheels. There is no computer no anything envolved. Its a simple and elegant little system and doesnt really go bad. Has anyone looked at the carrier bearings or center univeral joint? i am assuming tires are all the same age and size. nipper Please bear with me if i have repeated anyone

er um model engine tranny year mileage would help. How many miles on the pads. Pads can get junk and stuff in them, Also how long ago was it the mechnaic saw it last time. nipper