nipper

no they arent available. i have a set that goes to 140mph, not the standard 120, i think its from a 96. I have the gauges from the 96 apart, and from what i can see is that the differnce is the spedo head. i am hoping that since this is an electronic spedo, and it seems they all use the same Vehical speed sensor, i can just swap out the board and spedo head into mine, and it should all work. Un fortunitly with a herniated disc in my back, i cant do the work, so it will have to wait till spring, or when the @%@## docotrs decide to stop torturing me and decide to fix my back. i think the vendor that makes these things needed a 97 dash and 20 people to commit to buy them to make them... not sure. nipper

ok *whehw* thought i was loosing it. It really is something to pay somone, otherwise you have to drive up on ramps, drain 2-3 qts, refill , drive, repeat till you get it all changed. Much easier to pay the 99.00. Also at that mileage, this should fix it (i hope). It fixed mine at 180K miles. No reason to go to the dealer for it, but if the price is at 99.00 or less i would. nipper

I am actually shocked this peice is so cheap. I alos wonder if it something that the NHTSA admin needs to know about, as it can keep the rear hatch from closing securly. I wonder up to what year is affected by this. nipper

send them back. There are simply too many differnces, and they are subtle differnces either. nipper

Thats a good question .. i wish people would tell us auto/manual/model/mileage/engine. My mistake is that i consider torque bind more of an automatic problem then manual. Too bad there isnt a way to post that someplace like a sticky or header. .... this is important information and people always seem to leave it out. nipper

Spedo and odometer are the same unit. The are electronic and run off the VSS. nipper

hehe say that now untill the tranny chews itself up ... never a pleasant sound nipper

Well it takes three things to run an engine, fuel spark and air. Go back and double check your timing belts. A quick check is to take sure your hand id getting pulled into the intake manifold instead of getting pushed out. Before you do this make sure your coil is dissconnected. You really do need to look at the blets, if your off one tooth it wont run. Check and make sure all your electrical connections are in place, and make sure you have spark. Basically remove a spark plug wire and stick a insulated screwdriver in it.Hold the metal shaft of the screwdiriver about 1/8 - 1/16 of in inch from the engine and you should have a nice strong blue spark. Next Use a test light on a fule injector connection, and it should flash indicating that there is a signal to the injector. If those work check to make sure your fuel pump is running. nipper

true much easier to deal with a 14psi leak then a 15,000 psi leak (combustion pressure) nipper

Do the flush, then find a clear parking lot if you can and drive in circles a few times. If it is just gum that will clear it right up. Cross your fingers. nipper

im afraid to take mine off .. its that far gone. i have a replacemnt coming in the mail from sopmone on the board. i can barely get mine to functionin the cold weather now. nipper

I think what you are talking about is not an MAP sensor, but a PCM, a pressure sensor with a solenoid that switches between manifold pressure and atmospheric pressure. Sort of an odd way of doing it, but then again i am only working form a 98 manual, so i dont know if it is the same. nipper

They make great trickle chargers. They wont charge a dead battery in a car, but they will maintain them. They will charge a disconnected battery. nipper

You know the best way to make it never happen again. Buy a starter and keep it in the car .... murphys law nipper

I have only seen two cars here with repeated failures, and that was because the motor was baked. I think its about 12-15% of the 2.5's are affected. my OBW i'm the second owner, its has 182K on it, and the original head gasket. The car was maintained like clockwork. Some things some cars are picky on, and i think with sooby its religously changing the antifreeze with sooby antifreeze and deminerilazed water, use Sooby timing belts, and on automatics with AWD regular tranny fluid changes. In all honesty considering these are large milage interval services, thats not really that bad. nipper

I agree its inexcusable especially at that price. nipper

Myabe a bad injector ... electrically i can imagine how a bad injector coil would give a low voltage reading. The injector and head gasket are not related. nipper

Oddly it seems the only reputable ones are in Canada. Just did some more reading, and in some places in Canada it seems to be recomended, but with the warning of buyer beware ... and it doesnt seem to be as much of a problem in the states, with the exception of Michigan and somewhat in Maine. Tha anode that is attached to the car, really works best on boats.. or bridges or submarines http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Car/carCP.htm interesting peice, nipper

As I said, look around at the other cars around you, if they have early cancer, then maybe undercoat it. BUT on a car thats already been exposed to the elements for a year it really is too late and can make matters worse. Food for thought http://money.cnn.com/2003/12/02/pf/autos/f_and_I_products/ http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1995/December/08.html Also one thing i've seen from all the articles ( i did not post them all here .. google rustproofing), they agree on a few things, if it is not done right it can make thigs worse, it can possibly void your cars warrenty, the car may have a better rsut warrenty then an aftermarket rust proofer, and if it is done wrong it can make things worse. Also another point is that if a rustproofer wont let you watch them do it, run away from them. nipper

i can make a clutch slip removing a bolt with a three foot breaker bar. Just sit back and enjoy the car nipper

thats why i was asking ... i didnt think that year gt was a turbo nipper

i have the same issue on my 97 nipper

They work waell on boats or on anything that is submursed in salt water. For anything else its just a waste of money, but it is like chicken soup, its not going to make anything worse, all it might do is kil your battery if you park the car for a few weeks and not start it. ALso unless you live in a rust belt, rustproofing is a huge waste of money. Do a search on the threads here, you will see in gteat detail how scamish it is. Look at the cars around you that are of the same age, and also 10 years old. If you dont see a rust issue, i would not do it. I live on Long Island, my car is a 97, 180k on is, only thing that rusted is the tailgate release, and that wouldnt be covered anyway. Todays cars (well since the 90/s) have a a pretty good record for rust. The most important thing to avoid rust is regular car washes and waxing. Also once a season go around and make sure all the body drain holes are clear of dirt. If you do that, on a subaru, you shouldnever have a rust issue. nipper

Once the boot is riped, the stage is set for premature wear. Unlike a cv joint, if you see a rippeds boot, its possible to totally clean the cv joints and add new grease and new boots. Ball joints, once the dirt gets in the grease, its already worked its way into places you cant get too. ALso thers is such a thing as too much grease on a joint, as it will attract more dirt. You used to be able to replace the boots many many moons ago, but for reasons stated above, iits just easier and safer to rpelace the joint. nipper

Nothing to worry about. What was the method you were using to remove the pully? nipper