nipper

there was a recal. All you have to do is release the pedal once and it wont do it again.. if i remeber right. Take it to subaru asap.nipper

was just wondering if the oil got baked, it sounds like it might has .. can i take a wild guess, do you think its the rear cylinder on the passenger side? nipper

its normal and predictable. My 88 would do it on command was a blast. If you dont want it to happen add some bags of sand in the back, and a better tire. nipper

another trick, is to remove the spark plug wires one at a time while the car is running, and see if the noise changes pitch. If it does its a connecting rod bearing. You say you replaced your headgaskets, how hot did the engine get before you changed them? nipper

i cant tell from the pics, but the calipers are real easy. You do them like any other car. i dont think they hanged them from my 98 all that much Use a C clamp to compress them. Remove the bottom bolt and they swing up. Real easy. i would get a set of inexpensive pads as long as you are going to do things properly come spring. I am not sure about the pics, but if the brake pad has seperated from the plate its mounted on it must be replaced. nipper

well the obvious answer to that is dont let it get that low on fuel ... The only thing you will have coming up at 100K is a timing belt .. i would snag this ... Say if you want i can go look at it .. yeah thats it .... ill go look at it for you MUHAHAHAHAH nipper

well the first thing to do is the cheapest, replace the thermostate, and test the old one. You test the old one by putting it in a pot of water, use a meat thermometer in the water, and bring the pot to boil, wt=atch to see when the thermostate opnes. If it doesnt open, well then you can breathe easier, if it does .. keep a close eye on the temp gauge. nipper

Keep a very close eye on that temp gauge. It sounds like a coincidence, but you are not going to like my answer at all. STart the car with the radiator cap off, look for bubbles. Have the dealer chacke for exhaust gasses in the raditor. There really is only one reason to have peged gaguge and no heat and an empty tank ... but i wont speak the evils name, and i hope im wrong. nipper

are you sure its not working? have you sat in it for 10 minutes. i have put my hand on my pass side seat and it felt cold, but my passenger says it works fine. Lightbulbs are easy .. do a search on climate control, its inculded in there. Maybe we need to make that a sticky or whatever iuts called here and save it someplace easy to get too nipper

Another way of looking at it, a few 100.00 more over thecars life, or a 2500.00 gamble on an engine ... i prefer the few 100.00 myself. And what i meant by oil breaking down, i mean all the additives that are needed to keep things happy, sorry for the misunderstanding. But remeber you can bake oil, then it will start making carbon, then you have a paperweight.. More information then anyone would ever want to know http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html (cant help it im an engineering tech and a virgo ..info junky) nipper

its saying WAAAAAAAAAAAAA DONT LEAVE ME!!! its a vacume resevoir with a leak, my firts guess. Can be the booster, can be the small can that is there for the HVAC controls. Pop the hood next time you park then shut the car off, and listen nipper

i have a pair of heavy duty cables that were given to me that are goof proof. They have a connector in the middle, you put one side on, then the LED lights up, repeat on the other car, same thing, then plug them into each other. Tells you immediatly if you did it right, and gets you away from sources of BOOM ... They arent cheap, but are great when its a night with a new moon... nipper

yes that too. There is a post here with a blown engine, and we cant figure out why. i am thinking the long oil change interval had something to do with it. Not that the oil broke down, but that it had possibly leaky fuel injector, that diluted the oil and with a long chanege interval allowed the oil to be contaminated with gas and spun a bearing. with a 3000 interval may never had been an issue, or been caught in time. Oil changes are so much more then just the oil, its checking the entire car with a quick look to make sure everythig is ok. You can caths so many thigs early before they leave you broke down on the side of the reoad. nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47721 watch that thread .. it may help

i did not know that. Untill the last fe years subaru wanted to keep thier electronics simple and minimal. They still do but i think they have gotten to a good comfort levle that they now combine them. By electronics i mean the program itself, the hardware is fairly easy to make in comparison. nipper

thats a good thing then, take it in again. nipper

Anyone find a A pillar gauge pod that fits legacy or outback, more specifcally a 97 nipper

check that relay you heard go click, see if its operational. Also when you find out where that bugger is, let us know, as somone else needs to know where it is. nipper

well first question is do you burn any oil. If you do do a wet dry compresion test, that will tell you if its rings or valve guides. If you do burn some oil, and a compression test shows good numbers with no or minor change between wet/dry then you can suspect the seals. ANother way is to pull a valve cover and inspect them. My guess is at the very least you have tired valve seals. What do you ask? nipper

you are very very lucky. that reason why you didnt do damage at the time was because the car itself was stone dead. If it has been running for a week with no issues, you didnt hurt anything important because it was so dead, For peace of mind i would loook into the battery, as you may have dramatically shortened its life. You were very lucky nipper

go for the simple thing first. Change the belt. Next have an eletrical load test done, because if its the alt you would have changed the belt anyway. i think its just the belt. nipper

not a clue, its a std electro mechanical realy, with 6 pins. i would suspect it to be under the dash wire codes LT GRN OR BLU/BLACK - TO PARK-RUN IN MOTOR BLU/WHIT OR GRN - TO MOTOR BLK/WHT OR GRN/RED TO COMBO SWITCH (should be a small wire) WHT/BLU WHT/BLU- FROM THE #2 FUSE WHT/BLU OR BLK/RED TO REAR WASHER PUMP FROM FUSE BOX LT GRN/BLK OR BLU BLACK FROM PUMP TO SWITCH. BLACK FROM SWITCH TO GROUND. Best thing it to try to traceit from the switch hope this helps nipper

this is all over the place. i would never ever expect any oil to last 10,000 miles, i dont care what the mfg says. 6000 miles is pushing it, as about that time all the additives are gone. Since most people always let thier oil changer go a little farther then they should, i would say 5000. DO a search for this topic, you wil find tons of information pro and con. Longer oil change intervals also allow for small problems to become big ones. a leaking fuel injector that may get caught at a 3000 mile oil change can destroy and engine at 7000 miles or more on the same oil. This is a case of penny wise dollar foolish, If you are doing it to save costs up front, it wil cost you later in an spun bearing. ALso another thing to remeber is that the filter may not be rated for 6000 miles, and you may still have to do a filter change before an oil change. nipper

nope iot was gasket design fault on the 2.5L engines that was later corrected. The replacement gasket solves the problem. nipper

how long has this engine sat around before and after the headgaskets were installed. did it turn before the heads were pulled ? Have you tried removing all the plugs then trying to turn it. ALl you did were the heads, or did you do the bottom end too. If the engine is in the car, are you totally sure the car is in nuetral (can you push the car). The deisel fluid will work but on an upright engine, not sure about a flat one. this is a puzzelment nipper