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Everything posted by nipper
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AM i missing something ? or does this not apply to you? nipper NHTSA Campaign ID: 02V079000 Component: Brakes: Hydraulic: Master Cylinder Manufacturer: Subaru Of America, Inc. Year: 2002Make: SubaruModel: OutbackRecall Date: 03/26/2002 Defect Summary: The brake master cylinders may not function properly in ambient temperatures below freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit and lower). Consequence Summary: In temperatures below freezing, the brakes may not release after being applied, even when your foot is no longer on the brake pedal. This can occur without prior warning, possibly resulting in a crash. Corrective Summary: Dealers will replace the master cylinders. Owner notification is expected to begin during April 2002. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Subaru at 1-800-782-2783.
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i got 160k on an older subaru, on my legacy was 140k the original clutch. Clutch life really depends on the previous driver, and for goodness sakes, ITS AN OUTBACK! Its not a turbo, not a F1 racing car. CLutch will complain if you do that, especially an older clutch. IM sure there are perfomance clutchces around for the subaru, but i always looked at it like this, if the OE part lasted over 100K, guess what im buying nipper
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Automatics computer controlled or not will force an upshift no matter what the selector is in, it is done to protect the engine from the er um .. well .. not the most birghtest person behind the wheel. The govener acts as a rev limiter on a manual tranny, and as a speed govenor on both. Subaru likes a one size fits all (hence why we can interchange alot of parts), so they done seperate the two. Alot of cars have them now, why i dont know. Once you get out of the power band,all the revs above that point are sort of useless in the upper gears. Some cars you get better performance (1/4 mile or zero to 100) at the very top end by staying in a lower gear As far as you hating autos trannies, well thats personal, but some of the new ones are getting close to being hybrids, and almost last as long as manuals. Also the time diffenrce in performance is down to 1/2 second, and gas mileage is close to the same in both (or at lkeast within human error). Just an observation. nipper
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1- ignition noise throuhg the stero maybe? a ground loop in the stero, i know somne had this problem here. 2- NORMAL... some cars do it worse then others. Use the ignition key as a bridge to dishcarge the static elcticity instead of your finger tips. Lower the umidity, more heavier clothing you wear, more likey to get zapped. Tey spraying the car seats with cling free. 3-6 may be related. it could be time for a new battery, but clean all your battery connections first. My guess is the battery is tired. 4- could be the knock sensor starting to go bad. unplug and plug int the sensor that will clean the connector if its dirty. 5- no. Describe the sound and when it happnes better. nipper
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the cable drives a magnet. the magnet is in a bell, and thats attached to the spedo needle. Inspect your cable at both ends. if you are 100% sure the cable is not broken, my guess would be wear at the spedo needle. If you can see your odometer change while the bneedles is dead, then it is defanitly the needle bushing thats shot. replace the spedo. nipper
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and this is why i buy axles from subaru. i see this more and more where the aftermarket rebuilds people have to replace them a few times, or get the worng ones, and for all the money saved, its lost in time replacing prematurly failed axles. Once you figure out the time vs cost (yes your time is money), you savemoney in the long run. The new right front cv, was that an axle assembly, or just a joint. If you can feel it in the driver seat its pretty far gone. Did you tear a boot? Are you sure its not a wheel bearing ? nipper
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Actually with everything on diming a bit at a traffic light is normal. Altenators dont put out max power at idle, and with everything on you are drawing alot of current. Sometimes the act of putting the car in neutral is enough to bring upp the power. Any autoparts stroe will put a load tester on your battery (looks like a big silver shoe box with 2 jumper cables) and test them fro free. Watch over the guys shoulder, as this is a test that they cant fake to seel you something you need. It will tell you battery response to a load, running, and when actually cranking. This is a standard test. If your bettery is more then 4 years old, 3 years in an extreeme climate, i agree it may be starting to fel its age, but not because of the dimming. nipper
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OK the temperiture gauage is telling you the coolant is cold, has nothing to do with the heater core. This will also effect your gas milage. Since you have no heat i am going to assume the gauge is right. My first suspsion is that your thermostat is stuck wide open. My second suspsions is are your electric cooling fans on? They basically take a vacation from dec-march in some climates. ANother thing to check is your radiator cap. Replace that since its the cheapest and easiest. Also when was the last time you had the cooling system serviced? nipper
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sounds like he just doesnt want to do it. i havent heard of anyone having a problem replacing the headgaskets, i mean if most of us can do it in our driveways, what is his problem? i had a mechanic tht had "problems" with subaru axles. i found it was easier to change mechanics and never had a problem since. car always gets fixed right the first time. Find another mechnainc nipper