nipper

and this is why i shouldnt do these things on vicodin easy way to check for leaks is use either a can of carb cleaner or a spray bottle of water around the suspected area. If you have a leak, the engine will suck in either one and the engine rpm will change. nipper

i use bunji cords myself. nipper

actually all hall sensors work the same, its what they read are differnt, the pattern. Sorry my back's gotten alot worse since we last spoke, so it wont be till spring, after my surgery nipper

Well they could have the threshopd set a bit higher then the polution limits. At 120k it wouldnt be unreasonable to have a cat go, as they are only desighned for 120, but they do last much longer then that usually. The system is good at saying which o2 sensor is bad, but you know if it was me, i would risk the 70.00 to have both o2 sensors replaced and see what happens. 70.00 gamble is much better then a 500.00 replacement, and at 120k i would prbbly replace the o2 sensors with the cat anyway. nipper

thats the same sensors that are your crankshaft and cam position sensors, VSS sensors ... nipper

get a cheap oil pressure gauge and see what your oil pressure is. from your description sounds like you may have spun or destroyed a bearing or two. Can you take a long screwdriver and use it like a stethescope to hear where the noise is in the engine. How does the enigne idle.. does it idle rough? is it burning oil?

this is normal, it just means they got all gummed up with slush/snow/ice. They are hall effect sensors which read a saw tooth pattern on the hubs using a magnet. The air gap between the sensor and the saw tooth got clogged, or the sawtooth filled up with snow so it cant see the pattern. Will occasionally happen when you go through a deep puddle too. nipper

YOU know every car I rent I disable the traction control and stability control. if your a good driver you dont need them, and on passenger cars, especially awd i think they are a waste of time. I also have discovered alot of these units tend to make people think the roads are much safer then they are, when they arent. i know when ive had it on a car, I was shocked to find out how slick the roads actually were, and I could nto tell. This is all fine and well when your the only car on the road, but when you have to make an emegency manuver and your overdriving the weather conditions, you get in trouble. Subarus have survived all these years without stability control, and I dont think anyone has ever rolled one (which is what they are trying to avoid). Also using electronics to make up for poor driving skills is just a bad idea. im all for airbags, which they still had the disable switch for the abs (for gravel of unplowed snow), and like the electronic brake boost. traction control and stability control on 4wd cars (i said cars not suv) seem to be a waste. They come in handy on 2wd rwd cars, and i havent had enough exp with them on FWD cars. Just my opinion nipper

HUH? can you list the codes that were pulled off, as what you just said does NOT make sense. Firstly there are TWO 02 sensors, which one is reading out of spec. Engine misfire WHERE large vacume leak car would run like crap 4th is total bs The codes are a jigsaw puzzle, and you look at the common denominators when you have multiple codes, so we need to see the exact codes. If not i have a bridge to sell you in brooklyn nipper

hrmm The brake lights and the turn signals are two toatally independent circuits which do not cross over anywhere, except maybe the at the ground. The brake lamps are dual filamint as they carry both the parking lamps and the brake lamps. This is going to be laborous to do, but remove the brake light bulbs, then check to see if the turn signals work as they should, and re-creat the conditions. It could be you have a bad socket, or bad bulb feeding back through the ground. This is very hard to diagnose without seeing it in person. nipper

JUst cranking the motor is not going to do anything, so yes your right its the same. Your not getting the flow to get it out of the torque converter, and the vlaves and all the other goodies. The three times trick is much more complete if your not going to have it professionally done nipper

Sometimes its better to pay the 99.00 to have somone do it The fluid is going to come out faster then you can put it in, and there is a chance of running the front pump dry. You do that you have fried your tranny. The other method is painfully slow, but it drain the pan, put the new oil in run the tranny thrur the gears or around the block, repeate, untill all the oil is replaced. You wont fry the tranny this way. nipper

well then your never buying a new car again, as they are all going that way. i'm not even going to mention brake by wire.... nipper

i agree, once a clutch is glazed, it doesnt get unglazed. They just dont want to see you again. nipper

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_transmission http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-double-clutching.htm this explains everything. If your going to bump up the engine power as much as you have, you really need to know how the transmission works. PLEASE tell me that you also beefed up the brakes. nipper

its vacum actuated. You have a vacum leak in the system. Its not weird... nipper

Replace the clutch cable first and see what happens before you dig into the clutch. Sonds like the cable is worn as hell. nipper

The 8-9 volts is measured where? What is your voltage at he battery while cranking. If there is a 1 volt difference thats acceptable. Is there power at the fuel pump, if not replace the relay. nipper

Hvae you tried running in recirculate mode. Sometimes it is so cold the temp differential across the heater core from the fresh air never gets all that hot. in recirculate mode, it will get warm in the car, Unfortunitly hit defrost and all bets are off that way. Ive had to run recir in 10 degree weather to get the car inside warm. nipper

There is a drum inside the rear disc. The parking brake has its own shoes, and is adjustable. the adustment requires removing the center console. nipper

are you sure about that? there are only two O2 sensors, one before and one after the cat nipper

Well if you did anything to dramatically boost HP, you have voided your driveline warrenty. Synchros are replacable, but you have to rebuild the tranny to do it. They should be able to dyno test as long as its not poping out of gear, just double clutch, but yes check your clutch adjustment Out of curiosity ... how much estimated HP is the car now? If you double clutch the tranny you can drive the car indefanitly with bad synchros, just do a oil change in the tranny to get all those brass peices out of the tranny. nipper

ive seen it here at one tooth off the car wont start nipper

well thats a nice way of saying thick-headed. SInce i have lawyers involved, and its winter, 6 months off does not sound like a bad thing, espcially since i need to think about a career change now. There are other oddness in my back, so i am hoping they all fixed with the surgery and therapy nipper

Could it be a heat sheild? Right now if there are no driveability issues, i would keep an eye (ear) on it. If ti is a heat sheild, it wont get worse. if it is anything else, it will get worse and then you can tell what it is. It can also be a wheel bearing, or the backing plate for the front brake caliper. Actually i am thnking more and more its the backing plate. nipper