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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. tehn lost of cars are out for you, and yes you will need an older sooby as the newer ones are bigger and have more power. The 2.2L legacy i had would get from 27-35 on the highway depending on how hard i drove it. you would want to look at an imprezza then, a smaller car. And in comparison to all the awd/4wd vehicals out there, subarus do pretty good. nipper
  2. well your assuming the 28.00 one would fit. And bondo isnt just for rust repair anymore... nipper
  3. ive seen that too .. i thnk tht is just a generic picture. im aln=most tempted to yank the trim off a junkyard car and see what i can come up with im a decent modler. nipper
  4. How long ago was the last timing belt change. Put your hand over the carb, and your hand should be sucked in when cranked, if your timing belt broke, it will get sucked in and pushed out (or pushed out as i dont remeber if this has one timing belt or two). The big indicator here is that the car sounds differnt, let me guess, it cranks faster then it did before. As long as your there, dont forget the water pump. nippper
  5. Ok forgot that it was an external pump. Then he should be bale to feel the pump run with his hand.. nipper
  6. i second what he just said now that we have other peices of the puzzle .. nipper
  7. sigh, whatever. Seems like your a bit paranoid. Sometimes there is no reasoning with people nipper
  8. It may pass the bounce test, but there are alot more thingeis under the car that make up the suspension then the struts. If its all original, i bet you you need rubber bushings at your sway bars at the very least. Also inspect your ball joints and tie rod ends, all of which can give you that weird sensation. nipper
  9. well the older automatics, if you dont care about things like acceleration and power, they are OK, not great. New soobies automatics are lasting as long as the engines. 2.2L are no interference engines. 2.5 dohc have a head gasket issue (10-15%), but alot of us are driving arouns with them and have had no problem. 2.5L sohc engines seem to have head gaskets that may have an external leak (stopleak helps that). The 3.0L 6 cylinders have timing chains, and may have some sort of issue popping up with them, cant tell yet, to new. i LOVE my 2.5L over my old 2.2. the 2.5 has much more power, and does not hunt for gears in hilly highways like the 2.2L did. My tcar has 181k on it and all original. 90's vintage may suffer from torquebind, but in the automatic is easily fixed with a tranny flush. hope that helps. nipper
  10. Your close, you need to time the flow into a pint container, that will give you the GPM. ALso you should check the pressure. The pump may work fine with no pressure on it, but when it has to do work, may fail. If you are going to do the test, do it right generally, but since this is a no start condition at all, just pop the line and see if it flows out. Do it as close to the carb as possible. SInce i dont know how the system works on this car, it is quite possiblee that the fuel recirculates (i have to read up on LP conversions). If it doesnt first thing you replace is the fuel pump relay. Usually fuel pumps are fairly robust and dont go bad, BUT if its old, and you let the tank run down real low, a weak pump or dying pump can fail. The pump uses fuel to help keep it cool. Running it down on a new pump is not a big deal, on an old pump may push it to the edge. I am not saying this is the cause of your problems, but its a start nipper
  11. I would trust the shop that lost out on an opportunity to sell you a battery. And for the record i swear by interstate batteries. They have always goen past thier rated life. nipper
  12. no new ideas. You dont have to go back that far. VW autostick in the 70's had a torque converter and a vacum operated clutch. Sweet system, except you took a car with a 0-60 time you measured with a sundial and now can use a calander. Now they have multiple clutches and computer shifting. In thero with the computer controled clutches they should last the life of the car, but we all know how that works out. nipper nipper
  13. its still sounds high, it should be 4 hrs labor maybe 5 max . Ask a local garage and not a tranny shop, they do it all the time nipper
  14. yay its so hard to do these things over the net .... nice to know we all had the right idea nipper
  15. First check to make sure the fuel pump is working, and putting out the proper presure and flow. nipper
  16. er um .. why dont you just remove the cap off the master cylinder before you start pusing the piston back into the caliper. Thats how ive always done it, thats how we were taught in school, and thats how my mechanic does it (yes he still bleeds the system). In winter i refuse to work on the car outside so i bite the bullit if its a brake issue and let him do it. nipper
  17. Also in north america complain to the NHTSA. They dont like things that surge. nipper
  18. hehe i never defneded them, just made statements about the future, They will get better in the next few years. What im not a big fan of is electrically assisted power steering, as oposed to an eletric motor driving a power steering pump. The one that is going to make me nervous is break by wire, but that would require some changes of federal policy to let that happen, and i hope it doesnt. SHifting is already getting away from the mechanical connection to the tranny, with the paddles on the steering wheel, and electrically operated clutches. nipper
  19. hehe but the saturn owners cult are about to be asked to have some koolaide, subaru owners arent:) nipper
  20. the light is an on/off signal to ground. Its a switch. You need a variable signal to make a gauge work. You can tee into there the sending unit is for the switch. nipper
  21. SO they determined this with no tests. RUN First off remove the raditor cap, then start the car, then look for bubbles in the raditor. If there are bubbles, its a headgaskets, if none then next replace the raidtor cap and see what happens , if it still does it then have the raditor checked for the presence of exhuast gasses. Is your crankase oil balck or milky brown. If it is milk brown, then yes you have a cracked bloxk someplace, if no its a head gasket. WHat color is your exhaust. Is it a thick thick white the hangs out like a fog, then its a cracked cylinder, if not, then a head gasket. As far as the raidator being clogged with oil, what a bunch of BS. This can be profesionally cleaned by a raditor shop, or by running a commercial degreaser (like a dish washnig detergent) through the entire cooling system, then flushing it with waster. (its on the old sooby boards). What color is your antifreeze? nipper
  22. All it means is that yout throttle position sensor is now attached to the gas pedal instead of a cable and a spring to a tps and a butterfly valve. i mean you can sit here and debate and say youll never buy it etc etc etc,,,, but then that means in about ten years you will be walking everywhere. nipper
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