nipper

There is no true "off" going out of the wiper switch. There are two power feeds. One goes to run, the other goes to park, This one energizes the motor through an internal park switch in the motor which is cam operated. When the cam is in the right position, the switch opens up, and the wiper is parked. Check at the connnector to make sure you have power where you are suposed too. SOunds like the switch. nippper

Does this come in english? nipper

well in a car with piston slap, i personally either let it warm up, or drive it gently untill the slap goes away. nipper

Read this, it may seem like it doesnt apply, but the last page or so gets insot how the AWD physically works http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48865 What condition is the tranny fluid in? in an odd long shot, stick your head under the car and make sure the dirveshaft from the midle of the car to tha back of the car is still there. Sounds like th AWD duty c solenoid is possibly stuck open. Throw a fuse in the fuse holder just for giggles then take it out, just in case the solenoid is pyhsically stuck. i dont know how much money you want to toss in this puppy, but i would do a tranny flush if the fluid is not burnt. nipper

im thinking square wave like a gear nipper

way cool .. would be great to be able to dial in the amount of split .. from 0 (normal), then up to 50/50 awd, then full lock ... on demand. nipper

hehe i just siad i was throwing around ideas an ossciliscope on the solenoid would be very interesting. At least now we have a bettter idea how it works Just puzzles me that the failure mode of the coil (open) would have the AWD locked up all the time, i would think it would be the reverse. nipper

First thing first, check your trannny fluid and see if the fluid smells burnt, and that it is still red and full. Next try driving in D3 (doesnt let the torque converter lock up) and see if it goes away. ALso try putting the car in neutral as you come to a stop, does it go away? May want to throw in the FWD fuse, just to rule out any AWD issues. To me it sounds like maybe your lockup torque converter is late to unlock. nipper

Actually its a clutch pack with a solenoid that controls clutch application. 90% chance that your tranny is gummed up and it will clear it up. Did it on my OBW at 180K and cleared it right up. Just stick with the recomended tranny service interval and you wont have it again nipper

Torque bind. Place a fuse in the FWD holder under the hood on the passenger side of the car. Make a tight turn see if it goes away. If it does, thenyour next step is to check your tires. Tires must all have the same wear on them Tires must be all inflated the same Tires mus not havemore then a 1/4 vairation between any 4 tires in circumfrance. If this all checks out, then a tranny flush about 99.00 will clear the problem up 90% of the time. After the flush drive in cricles for a bit and the problem will be gone. Of course dont forget tot ake the fuse out before getting the tranny flushed. nipper

I tcan be cooking from the cat. In my car ut was frame rot ..... the big c .... cancer the frame wa so far out and flexing from the rust the same axke biit kept going. finally the car went to the junkyard nipper

Your sucking up oil during hard turns, CHeck you pcv system. I had a sooby that did that when i got overly agresive on turns, nipper

i agree, most water pumps start to leak slow thorough the weephole, but will quickly dteoriate if let go for weeks. I had a datsun where the waterpump self destructed cause i let it go a few weeks. nipper

well .. do share and tell how to make one of these mystery boxes oh great understander of the electrons nipper

im suspecting a vibration damper/ pulley coming loose. Do the belt thing and let us know what happens nipper

i really need to remeber where i read these things.... im going to so many drs lately hard to keep track Some car mag did a comparison on octane boosters, including using acetone. One of the interesting parts of the test was that you can go as high as 30% acetone before you start doing damage, but damage starts at 31% They found out that everything actually worked.. much to thier surprise. nipper

model year mileage would help nipper

sounds like the brakes need bleeding nipper

the fuse just kills the AWD, so you only have FWD. Rotate the tires and see if the wobble moves. i was going to suggest the center universal joint and carrier bearings. "I do notice that where front axles goes onto shaft/spline at transfer box that there is a very small amount of movement up and down for that shaft. Should that be rock solid or is a small amount of movement normal?" SUbarus dont have tansfer box, they have transaxles.... i think that is what you mean. There should be no movement at all between the axle and the CV joint.. is that what you mean? hrm With the car running, look at the pullies on the front of the engine. Pay special attention to the crankshaft pully. Is there any wobble in any of the pullies? Try removing all the belts and start the car and see if the wobble goes away. When was the timing belt replaced. a wobbel at idle is indicating some sort of rotational mass is out of balance, and there really arent many things that qualify for that attached to the engine. nipper

Now without putting a scope on the solenoid, here is a for instance. lets say by cycling onoff 3 times a second it gives you 10/90 split, then cycling 30 times a second gives you 50/50 split. Thats why 6volts wont work. SO we are back to : Off - no cricuit interuption - normal awd Position 1 - interupted circuit - Locked 4wd position 2- feed into the Low circuit on the tranny - 50/50 awd i like this .... or is it just the vicodin playing games with my head again nipper

Another reason to go after Mr Mickey .. .. They like to chew things. Thye like to have mates, and well, make more Mickeys. Also when they die, they make a big stink. Best to make the time to get him out of there, before the car doesnt run anymore. nipper

well i also think some of the body cladding is differnt, so that may give you more clearnace too. My 98 leagcy used to catch curbs all the time when parking, my 97OBW doesnt. nipper

191K (miles?) well thats a good long time for a cv joint, you got a good life out of that axle, time for a new one. nipper

remember guys i speculating here. Putting the fuse in the FWD holder energizes the solenoid. A fully energized solenoid can have one of two postions, open or closed. Torue bind in rarely a duty c solenoid failure (from reading the threads here). Torque bind most of the time, assuming no mismatched tire damage, seems to be from gummed up parts. The gummed up parts can be the solenoid seats, or the clutch plates, or any other parts in there (but i think thats it). Doing a tranny flush seems to correct the problem most of the time. When it doesnt clear up, prbbly means the solenoid seats, and or clutch pack have been damaged from mismatched tires. or palin old mechanical failure, like the support bearings gone bad. The computer varies the duty cycle. its varies the time between HI (on) and low (off). Solenids do not respond to variable voltage, for that you would use a stepper motor. You have it backwards. Torque bind IS 4wd locked, not the other way around (only because the car is not designed to have 4wd locked). I am thinking that to get 50/50 split in AWD is to totally shut off the signal to the duty c solenoid..... anyone? nipper

Grab the belt, and you should be able to move it back and forth (i think ) 1/4 inch (1/2 inch total) for the powersteering belt, and almost 1/2 inch (1 inch total) for the A/C belt (per my owners manual). I would check the ac belt too, odds are if one is too tight, other ay be too. nipper