golucky66

Agreed. Unless you really need that extra 1-2 hp it doesn't make sense... How will changing the filter allow more air flow into the engine? By reducing the amount it can filter usually. Therefore allowing some things into the engine that the conventional would block. Not to say L&N filters are bad. But not recommended for regular drivers.

I'm not sure about Subaru's but some other cars have a "Service Engine Soon" light which is commonly mistaken for a check engine light. The service engine soon light is typically the light for oil changes etc...

If you're not trying to save the tie rod, the fork mentioned above is the easiest way... If you are. You need some kind of upforce on the tie rod other wise you wont get it out of it's really stuck. What I do if I need to save the rod is that I take a big pry bar and put it somewhere on the frame or control arm (wherever really) that you can apply force up while you or a friend hits the bottom of the tie rod or the spindle where the tie rod goes in. (Just be careful not to damage it, some are designed where there is an exposed seem there that can break easily)

I recently did a tranny pan resealing on my tranny (2.2L impreza sedan) and let me just say that the trannys come from factory with a liquid gasket like RTV. I resealed my tranny using that and as long as you follow the direction, no problems will occur for another 100k+ miles. I personally have never used a true gasket on the trannys but some other guys at my shop that I work at dislike them because they say that it "doesn't hold up as well or seal as well" they could've did it wrong. I don't see why one would be better then the other provided you or they do it correctly. I agree with rooster2 on the "filter" there isn't really a "filter" on the transmissions until you get into the 2000's. Yours may have the external filter, my 96' impreza did not have an external. Best of luck.

So I've been playing around with the FWD fuse in my car, because why not. And it's pretty cool, similar to my Brat where you can activate it on the fly. (I ran wires and a switch into the car from the fuse wire and was able to activate it and disengage it while driving) But I'm very curious as to how it exactly works. The car has an automatic transmission and I understand that the computer engages and disengages a clutch for the rear wheels, and it is the same clutch that controls the power split from front to rear. But where exactly is this clutch? Is it at the back end of the transmission? Can the disc be changed if they were to wear out? Or do you need a new tranny? If anyone has a section from a manual or book that explains how it works technically, that would also be appreciated.

Not to sure about the trans-x but at my shop, we use BG products. And when we do a transmission flush we use a cleaning kit and a conditioner. I had a 97 OBW with 300k on it, and it had a similar trans issue. It wouldn't shift from 3 to 4th unless you were really light on the throttle. Every 25k I would do a trans flush with the kit and it would be back to normal for another 25k. It saved me from putting a tranny in it!

Yeah, on a subaru (or any AWD car really) if the tires aren't close to each other in depth of tread, the car may encounter difficulties, especially in the snow. I have never heard any specific measurement different for best results but the 5/32" is believable, if not even less (like 3 or 4/32") Are you sure it is leaking out of the plug and not around the bead? Because the bead is a very very common place for wheels to leak, especially a very slow leak like what you have. Best of luck!

Considering you have no heat in the car, i would start with a thermostat because head gasket or not, if the bottom hose is cold, its stuck. After you fix that, make sure you correctly purge all air from the system. No heat in the car is very commonly because of bubbles in the cooling system. Start with the basics. Look at easy stuff first, and replace cheap stuff first (unless some how you know its head-gasket, like an obvious leak from it) As AdventureSubaru said, get a OEM thermostat. Or at least a good one. Don't put a 5$ stat in there from auto zone because "that's what the guys said" Subaru's are stupid picky about parts sometimes. Best of luck.

1 Lucky Texan is right. for OBD cars that is. And since it's a 96' it has OBD. Therefore, flashing CEL is usually misfire bad enough that the computer sees a significant problem and "usually" should not be driven. As for w/o OBD, forester2002s is right.

If you get stuck in the snow in a Subaru, it's because the car doesn't have enough power to push the 2 feet of snow out of the way. lol. On a serious note, I go out driving in the storms because I like driving in snow, and my 96 Impreza is a champ in the snow, you won't get stuck unless you have crappy tires. Hope you like the car! I'd kill to have a brand new Subaru!

Rears don't spin. The only reason the fronts spin is because they need to be on a bearing so when you turn the wheel the strut can move properly. The rears, because the rear wheels don't moves left or right, have no need for the struts to pivot on the mount. If the mounts do not line up, either the shop put the mounts on however they liked. Or they were not informed of the correct location that the mount should line up with. Short story, the rear mounts are stationary and do not pivot like the fronts.

In my neck of the woods, (northwest CT) I sold one of my cars a 1997 subaru outback with basically 300k on it. Grant it it didn't have a head gasket, but I got 1700$ for it, and that was from many offers. So, at least in my area, I don't know about the 500$ price.

If the car overheated due to a water pump failure, a "better" head gasket doesn't mean anything. The head gasket blew because of the water pump failure not the other way around. So, are you asking for a place to get a "better" water pump. Or are you asking for a place that sells "higher quality" head gaskets then NAPA. And depending on how bad it over heated. A warped head might also be possible, which would cause another head gasket failure not long after the new one was installed.

There are still coolant conditioners. I use them at my shop anytime I do a coolant flush (comes with the kit BG gives us) I have asked a few older co-workers as well as our local representative from BG and they all agree that the conditioner is not needed, just another thing to add to the system as "insurance" to help it last longer. This additive that my shop uses is NOT stop leak. And I wouldn't recommend putting stop leak in it unless its actually leaking and as a temporary fix. Moral of the story. Everyone I've asked says its not mission critical to add it, just "nice".

Just an idea, I have seen many issues with seat switches going bad. They get sticky and will be engaging the motor even though the seat position is all the way back or forward. And once they reach their limit on the track, they draw crazy amounts of amps. This can be the same with a window if it is not functioning properly. Just an idea. Any switches that power a motor could get stuck and cause excessive drain on the battery. The fact that it's while the car sits leads me to believe it's not a switch issue, but the seats can move while power is off. Food for thought.

Funniest post all month... I was laughing so hard.

Honestly, my biggest annoyance with subaru is that the newer subies headlights don't shut off with the ignition like EVERY OTHER SUBIE EVER! I don't own a new subie so some may, or it may be an option, but the few customer cars that I've worked on don't shut off automatically.

Best bet is to check your owners manual. If I remember correctly, my 1997 legacy outback had one. So I'd say yours does. But again, best place to check is the owners manual if you have it.

Is it when you're stopped and just turning the wheel, or going less then 15 mph and turning?

Depends on a lot of things. But most likely it's for security reasons.

Seconded.

When you say you've done a tune up and all filters. Did that include the fuel filter? If not, remove the filter and blow through the in side. It should be fairly easy. It it is restricted at all, that could cause an issue with it runner.

Jerky acceleration at lower rpms typically is just a throttle body issue. Basically it just needs a cleaning and the probably should be significantly better. I recently bought a 96 impreza that wasn't driven much for a while. Similar jerky acceleration, did a fuel injection service (it cleans the injectors as well as the throttle body) and it was good to go afterwards. Though, I did physically take the intake hose off (the one that connects to the throttle body) and got in there with cleaner and scrubbed it clean with basically a toothbrush (my throttle body was really dirty) But, with the engine dying while driving uphill, I don't think that would be a throttle body issue. That could be fuel pressure etc etc...

Hi all, I have a 96 subaru impreza that has only 110k on it. I love the car and because it has low mileage and little rust I'd love to do some modifications to it. What are there out there in terms of upgrading the sway bar (and links) for this car? Any kits to buy or transplant from a different subie? Also, are there any options as for brakes? I know there were some kits that upgrades the rotors and pads and calipers but I haven't seen any that fit the 96. Thanks!

Yeah, my current car, a 96 impreza unlocks all doors with the key turn. My old car, a 97 impreza, did not. It was the most annoying thing in the world.